KEY POINTS:
Queenstown, nestled among lakes and towering mountain ranges has always screamed winter wonderland, but the crisp Central Otago spring may be an even better time to visit - especially for those more fond of sipping on a latte than slipping on the slopes.
I arrive in the small town at the tail-end of winter, but the area is still packed with people, "When will they all leave?" I ask. I discover that, being a complete ski and snow ignoramus (I was raised in the Waikato - the dairy capital isn't big on the white stuff), I have failed to understand that spring is actually the time when skifields are often at their best. And, besides, Queenstown seems to be one of those never-never lands, where people come and don't leave for a while.
After spending a few days there, I could see why. But that had less to do with the local attractions, and more to do with the luxurious accommodation.
After taking in the incredible bustle and hurry of a town where everyone is on a mission to throw themselves off the nearest cliff with a slim rubber band tied round their ankles, walking into the two-year-old, five-star Sofitel Queenstown, feels like returning to a quiet and cosy cocoon; there are water features in the lobby, soft lighting and the couches and chairs are all draped with possum-fur blankets and comfy cushions (likely to ease aching bones and bruised shins after learning to snowboard).
It is when I got to my room, though, that the temptation to simply shut the door and order room service for the next three days truly overcame me. All right, I confess, I'm not exactly an adventure junkie anyway. But with a view out to The Remarkables from my small balcony, a large plasma television and a huge, soft-as-a-feather bed, I couldn't see the need to leave.
And that was all before I saw the bathroom. Because if the Sofitel is much like any other hotel in many respects, the bathroom is any woman's (or honest man's) dream. It has individually lit mirrors, space to chuck all your many beauty accoutrements on the shelves, and the shower has a choice of two different showerheads. The crowning glory is a massive double spa bath designed by UK guru Sir Norman Foster, with a small television screen in the wall, speakers behind your head, and a waterproof remote. What more could you wish for?
Okay, so suggesting that you spend all day in your hotel room in a town like Queenstown would be silly - especially when the days are sufficiently warm you can venture outdoors with just four layers of clothing rather than five.
Preferring walking to sliding when I did, finally, exit my room, I went up on the gondola to check out the stunning views of the town, and took a stroll up the top.
If I'd wanted to venture further afield, I was told the walking tracks in The Remarkables, all open again in October, offer even better views.
The town was also gearing up for its big spring event - the Michael Hill NZ Open, which will gather 60 pro golfers in pursuit of $1.5 million in prize money.
I'm not really one for golf, either, but I do believe it's best enjoyed with a nice glass of wine and a good lunch - both of which Queenstown can offer in abundance. I stopped expecting to see everyone suddenly grab their skis and hightail it out of town the minute the snow started to melt, and, instead, watched as thousands of visitors basked in spots of sunshine. I enjoyed a coffee by the lakeside, before heading back to watch Shortland Street in the bath.
Oh yes, Queenstown is a place where dreams come true - all year round.
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BATHOLOGY
The last time someone ran me a bath I was about eight.
It barely covered my legs and was lukewarm, with a dash of cheap bubble-bath which de-bubbled in about three minutes.
Sorry mum, but I now know just how good a bath can be.
The Bathology experience at the Sofitel Queenstown would be the perfect antidote to a muscle-flexing day on the snow - if you were that way inclined - or the ideal way to spend a relaxing night with a special someone.
All you need do is to book the time and nominate the kind of experience you want: there's tranquillity, unity, and clarity to choose from.
Then a "bathologist" appears at your door to transform your hotel bathroom into a some kind of watery heaven.
I chose tranquillity, in keeping with the theme of utter laziness that I had adopted on my break.
Essential oils of lavender, frankincense, chamomile, mandarin, bergamot and ylang-ylang were added to the water - along with the bubble-bath.
The other options use different oils, and can include indulgent French champagne and chocolate-dipped strawberries.
A small bathside table held a pot of herbal tea and cold mineral water, and a bath pillow was provided. A robe and slippers were ready for when I finally chose to hop out, fragrant rose petals were scattered around the bath, and candles lit the room.
My only complaint was that the bath was clearly meant for two - but then, I could stretch my legs out.
As for the soothing music they put on, I have to confess I turned it off and watched some trashy television shows until I was forced to hop out for fear of shrivelling into a raisin. But the whole experience was a luxury that made all the difference to a night in front of the telly.
Michelle Coursey flew to Queenstown courtesy of Flight Centre.
