Queen of the CastleRock

By HEATHER RAMSAY

It's easy to find CastleRock Lodge. Really it is. Just turn off SH3 at Kihikihi, then take another turn a few kilometres further on, and CastleRock soon appears on the right.

But the map and directions in the brochure and on the website are so clear and they were so firmly imprinted in my mind that when I went, I decided not to take the map, nor the address.

My memory and navigational skills were tested when we realised we were lost, but I blame two things.

First, the excellent roads made distances seem shorter than they were, and the rolling green hills of the southern Waikato soothed the navigator into a contemplative daydream.

Overshooting the turnoff by 20km or so proved fortuitous as we found ourselves at Arapuni, where the mighty Waikato River is tamed by yet another hydro dam.

A helpful garage owner sent us on a shorter back-route, through lush pastureland studded with boulder fields cast up by activity in the Mangakino volcanic centre more than a million years ago.

Some of these strange and beautiful rock formations are eerily reminiscent of the menhirs and dolmens of England and France, while others are whatever you want them to be, hence the name of our destination, CastleRock Lodge.

The lodge sits on a hillside overlooking Wharepapa Crag, which from some angles looks uncannily like a medieval castle.

The crag and surrounding areas are famous for rock-climbing, and while that is the main drawcard for many visitors, others find the lodge is a great place to escape to for an inexpensive weekend where you can do as much or as little as you like.

CastleRock is backpacker accommodation, and with its reputation as an adventure centre, I expected it to be full of young adventurous types making use of cheap, but basic facilities. I also thought there might be pressure to join in the activities, but I was wrong on all counts - except the cost.

The young and enthusiastic staff are friendly and professional, and on arrival we were shown through the common areas of the lodge, then to our room in the Kennedy Chalet, about 200m away from the main lodge.

Like most backpackers, CastleRock offers the choice of private rooms with shared facilities, as well as traditional dormitory rooms.

Our simply furnished room in the chalet was light and bright, with a super-comfy bed and a door that opened out on to a deck with views over the surrounding farmland and crags.

The chalet is a restored three-bedroom farmhouse, so we had to share the communal facilities with the occupants of only two other rooms. There are two bathrooms, a modern, well-equipped kitchen and a gas barbecue, and a comfortable lounge and dining room, complete with log fire, stereo and Sky TV.

It felt like a comfortable home, and while at first I had reservations about sharing facilities, dinner was a social affair with visitors from England and Australia pulling together to create an interesting meal from combined supplies - the nearest shop is 20 minutes' drive away at Te Awamutu, so it pays to come prepared.

For those who don't enjoy communal living, exclusive use of the chalet is possible and because it's out of sight of the main lodge, it would be ideal for couples wanting time to themselves, or for a group of friends or families wanting a fun weekend in the country.

The main lodge has a similar set-up but on a larger scale. It may be in the backpacking price range but the outlook and facilities rival those in up-market establishments, with a wraparound deck that looks over a stylish solar-heated swimming pool and spa pool to Wharepapa Crag.

There's also a tennis court and a range of mountain-bike trails, rock-climbing routes and walking tracks. Visitors can take their own bikes and gear or hire it on site, with qualified instructors available for lessons.

If all this activity sounds a bit much, no one minds if you spend the days lazing around reading or sunning yourself by the pool.

We didn't go near our car for two days, but the antique shops of Tirau and Putaruru are a 30-minute drive away and the tourist hot-spots of Rotorua and Taupo are an hour off.

The clientele at CastleRock was a mixed bunch of international travellers and New Zealanders, with a wide range of ages and interests, but one thing that we shared was the view that backpacking has never been so good.

CASE NOTES

Where to find it

CastleRock Adventure, 1250 Owairaka Valley Rd, RD7, Te Awamutu
Ph 0800 225 462

What it costs

Prices start at $19 a person for a dorm bed; $21 a person four-share; $50 double/twin rooms in the lodge (these prices for YHA and BBH members). Non-members $21, $23 and $54. Double rooms in Kennedy Chalet $60 (members); $64 (non-members), or exclusive use $180. Campsites available from $6.

Access

Wheelchair access is possible in the main lodge and there is a wheelchair-accessible bathroom.

Facilities

Swimming pool, spa pool, free 15 minutes internet, tennis court with free racquets and balls, free climbing guidebook hire, gas barbecues.

Getting there

Take SH3 south of Hamilton. At Kihikihi take the Putaruru turn-off (Whitmore St). Drive 9km, then turn right on Owairaka Valley Rd. CastleRock is 12.5km on the right.

Drive times: Auckland 2 1/2 hours, Hamilton 45 minutes, Rotorua and Taupo 1 hour.

Public Transport: Take Intercity, $22, ph (09) 913 6100, or Dalroy Express $28, (0508) 46 56 22, to Te Awamutu, then phone CastleRock for a pick-up ($20). Waitomo Wanderer (07) 349 2509 has a scheduled pick-up in Kihikihi at 4pm daily ($20) and operates a daily service from Waitomo to Rotorua and return which passes CastleRock.

Activities

Rock-climbing, abseiling, mountain-biking, BSX, cycling, walking, tennis, swimming. Bikes and equipment available for hire or take your own. Qualified instructors on site.

* Heather Ramsay was a guest of CastleRock Adventure.