Queen Charlotte Sounds of silence

By GERALDINE McMANUS

A unique hideaway established in Queen Charlotte Sound, the Lazy Fish is accessed only by boat. It's a computer, TV and newspaper-free zone.

It is an unreal world, in which blissful hours can be spent reading, talking, listening to music, eating fine food in a candle-lit outdoor dining room surrounded by walls of moss, or relaxing in a bath by the water's edge.

Established for more than 14 years, the Lazy Fish is well known to international visitors yet remains a secret to New Zealanders.

Owner Chris Warren dreamed of the name as he sat in his Ponsonby villa and decided what he wanted to do with the remote Marlborough Sounds farmhouse he had bought. It is his home and remains that as a priority. His own philosophies and artistic talent show in the hideaway retreat.

From the house, boardwalks meander through the garden to hidden retreats. Each guest bedroom is isolated and surrounded by subtropical gardens, making a remote and intimate personal space.

Previously farmland, much of the hillside is regenerating bush, offering a backdrop of greenery down to the water's edge. The garden is a micro-climate of lush flowering plants. Plant-filled pots edge the verandah of each cabin and are abundantly scattered around each outdoor private sitting area.

The Balinese-style outdoor dining room was Chris' idea - the curved wall is room-height and a dripping pipe along the top creates the sounds of a soft waterfall and nourishes the lush green moss over the wall.

A huge round table for 12 provides ample seating space and at night the wall is lit by a dozen candles. Above bloom drifts of pale blue wisteria.

Each cabin is luxuriously furnished with four-poster beds, has a verandah with a hammock and a private seating area. Bouquets of fresh flowers refresh the bathrooms. Each of the garden rooms has a private outdoor bath with hot water on tap.

Large original artworks blend with Chris' extensive collection of memorabilia and Asian carvings. Chris and sister Jackie Margaret are artists and their works in oils, pastels and inks are hung throughout.

Each morning I knew the plants had been watered and the gardens tidied. Professional yet understated, the staff's hospitality and welcome is real.

At dusk the boardwalks are lit by low lamps. More extraordinary is the light in the guests' telephone box, the Telephish, on the end of the jetty. The light in the box and the light under the jetty attract myriad small fish.

Chris has declared a fishing-free zone of 65m from the jetty out to the edge of the bay. The fish are pets and fed by the guests.

That is not the only wildlife; an extraordinary sound rends the air in the evening. At dusk blue penguins leave the water to hide beneath the walkways. Chris says the sound is similar to "strangling a donkey", but is just their nightly chatter.

The odd possum runs over the roof-top or spits from a nearby tree. Among the shrubbery are wekas. Camouflaged in mottled brown, they disappear into the shadows. Tui and fantails dart about, finches drop in for water.

Beyond Lazy Fish a walking track leads steeply up to the top of the hill with views over the sounds. Kayaks and dinghies for rowing are close to the shore and there's even a windsurfer for keen ones.

For guests, it's always day three that is the turning point, says Chris.

Day one they wonder about settling in, day two it's sheer pleasure being there, then day three is about feeling relaxed and rejuvenated.

On the ferry run, guests can be collected to walk a section of the Queen Charlotte Walkway.

Depending on enthusiasm, the section walks are two, three or five hours, with the guests being dropped off at either Ship's Cove or Resolution and picked up either at Resolution or Furneaux Lodge, and then returned to the Lazy Fish.

Other possible activities include dolphin watch and eco tours with visits to the bird sanctuary Motuara Island. The Lazy Fish can book these for guests.

Beyond, in the Sounds, activity is infrequent, just the changing moods of the sea and sky. The one regular view and sound is the Interislander sailing through the Sounds. Several times a day the ship cruises past in both directions through Queen Charlotte Sound. At night it's lit up like a wedding cake.

The guest house is an out-of-this-world retreat for romantics and creative people. It is a great escape where every day is a festival.

What's on the menu

Wholesome, fresh foods, beautifully presented, are part of the Lazy Fish experience. All meals are provided. The Lazy Fish chef has previously worked in a top Wanaka resort and is recognised for her presentation and fresh, flavoursome foods.

Guests may choose to dine together or in their own garden rooms. Depending on the weather, dinner is served at the long table in the guest house overlooking the bay or in the walled courtyard.

Often the fire is lit in the red room during the late afternoon. And guests gather for pre-dinner drinks or after-dinner reading and nibbles or coffee.

Fresh coffee is available whenever and wherever you ask for it.

Meals are not a la carte but include selections of freshly made breads, muffins, salads, fresh soups and platters with choices. The kitchen is awash with sounds and aromas - breads, focaccia and muffins being baked.

Herbs from the garden are plentiful and these and flowers are used to garnish.

For dessert a rosemary and orange cake served with fresh, home-made yoghurt was delectable.

Case notes

* Where to find it

The Lazy Fish Guest House, Marlborough Sounds, accessible by boat from Picton. Direct booking only, phone (03) 579-9049, email enquiries@lazyfish.co.nz

* Costs

Full board, breakfast, lunch, dinner (not including wine)

Cabins with four-poster beds and ensuites $270 a night (double).

Double room with sleigh beds and ensuite $180 a night (double). Preferably two- or three-night bookings.

* Getting there

Cougar Line from Picton. All bookings for the Cougar Line through the Lazy Fish. No day visitors.

* Across Cook Strait

The Interisland Line operates the Interislander and the Lynx, providing a frequent ferry service for foot and vehicle passengers between Wellington and Picton. For information and reservations call 0800 802 802, contact an accredited travel agent or visit www.interislandline.co.nz (Cougar Line can pick up and deliver back to the Interisland Terminal wharf).

* What to do

Sounds cruise: Cougar Line.

Queen Charlotte Walkway transfer: Cougar Line.

* Geraldine McManus was a guest of the Lazy Fish, the Interisland Line and Cougar Line.

www.lazyfish.co.nz