Plenty of options to Baywatch

The geometry of the Bay of Plenty coastline is from a mathematical textbook. With White Island at the hub, the broad sweep of the bay forms a near perfect arc, stretching from Waihi Beach in the north to Opape, east of Opotiki. The chain of immense beaches is punctuated only by river mouths and occasional headlands, many with well-preserved remains of pa sites. It seems every settlement offers a beachside campground, many with cabins.

On the cusp of the Coromandel is Waihi Beach. For a taste of paradise, skirt the headland north to Orokawa Bay. This hidden jewel is a pohutukawa-edged strip of sand, framed by forested headlands which enclose the idyllic scene. You can also take a short detour to the William Wright Falls, which cascade 28m in two tiers behind the beach.

Follow Waihi Beach south to Bowentown Heads at the northern mouth of Tauranga Harbour. The headland has walking tracks which explore the more sheltered harbour waters and pa sites.

The terraces, middens and defensive ditches of Te Kura a Maia Pa are still visible. The pa was the site of many battles and its name translates as "place where young warriors were taught".

From the upper carpark is a five-minute walk down steep steps to secluded Cave Bay. This concealed strip of sand is barricaded with huge boulders at the cliff base and is a prized fishing spot.

A track also leads to the trig station, with magnificent views up Waihi beach to the north. South, you can see all the way along Matakana Island to Mt Maunganui and beyond.

The rhyolite dome of Mt Maunganui is a grander cousin of Bowentown Heads. Although the town is a mini Surfer's Paradise, complete with hoons displaying the latest vehicular gadgetry and spotty teenagers in baggy pants loitering by the boardwalk, a walk around the mount is pleasantly divorced from the acne-ridden undertones.

The walk's views are an eclectic mix of urban and natural. The developed resort behind Mt Maunganui beach, the port, estuary, city, Matakana Island and wide open ocean all appear as you complete the loop and the atmosphere changes noticeably according to your outlook.

Mt Maunganui is a 232m, steep-sided dome. This extinct volcano lies in isolation from any other high piece of ground, so not only forms a spectacular backdrop to the beach but commands awe-inspiring views from the summit. Allow an hour for a return trip to the summit.

Further south, the coastal road hides behind the dunes and beachfront properties to Papamoa and rejoins the coast at Maketu, reputed to be the first landing site of the Arawa canoe.

At the far side of the Kaituna River is Pukehina where you can take a walk to the mouth of the Waihi Estuary and admire the cabins on the opposite shore in Little Waihi.

Pukehina beach merges with Kohioawa beach at Otamarakau. This stretch of coastline has 30m cliffs of ivory-coloured, volcanic pumice smothered in pohutukawa flanking the road.

The next settlement is Matata, which has a campground sandwiched between the beach and Matata Lagoon Wildlife Refuge Reserve. The lagoon is one of the last remnants of coastal freshwater wetlands. It forms a home for matata (fernbird), spotless crake, Australasian coots, black teal and little black shags.

In Whakatane, the three-hour one-way Kohi Pt Walkway rounds the headland and passes some of the country's best-preserved pa sites. Easier access to Kapu-te-rangi pa and the trig station at the summit is from a parking area at the end of Kohi Pt Lookout Rd.

Kapu-te-rangi (kapu means "reaching up to space" and terangi means "heavens") is said to have been occupied by Toi-te-huatahi, a notable chief from which whom many New Zealand tribes are descended.

Two distinct parts are evident in the site. The main area of the pa was probably occupied during the late 1700s. Defensive ditches and banks were constructed to repel invaders.

Oven stones were found on the terraces of the lower sections of the site indicating human occupation, probably before 1350AD.





After Whakatane you pass the finger-like sandspit of Ohope and the fertile waters of the Ohiwa Lagoon.

Three kilometres from the western end of Waiotahi beach, where horse riders can often be seen splashing through the waves, are two totem poles. The carvings depict the history of Opotiki and include the story of two brothers, Tarawa and Tawharanui.

Opotiki seems like a frontier town, the first transitions to eastland becoming apparent.

Having spent so much time close to the beach and the soothing caress of the lapping waves it will be difficult to head inland at the conclusion of the Bay of Plenty.

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