Pioneering days in style and comfort on the Coromandel

By BRETT ATKINSON


We think of it as our Pioneer House moment.

Inside our cosy log cabin, hewn of rough-sawn redwood, and redolent of the natural aroma of beeswax, we stoke the cast-iron fire grate. Misty morning rain creeps up the valley, but the warmth inside our humble dwelling keeps us cosy and protected. The creatures of the surrounding bush are kept at bay by Lucky - our trusty canine companion, alert and focused on the porch.

We pop another CD into the stereo, read another favourite magazine and pour another cup of coffee.

When you are staying at Pitoone, a unique property on the Coromandel Peninsula, it's easy to have a Pioneer House moment.

Luckily it's just as easy to come back down again to the joys of thoroughly modern relaxation.

Pitoone is the creation of Michael and Annegrit Brueck and their daughter Jessica. Originally from Frankfurt, Germany (via Taiwan, Malaysia and Mexico - "but this is the best") and now living on an idyllic 30ha near Kuaotunu Beach.

The cottage is tucked away from the family home, nestled into native bush with views to the ocean. Michael sourced the redwood timber to build the cottage from the King Country.

None of the interior has been varnished. Instead natural beeswax and turpentine has been used to seal the timber. Stone from a quarry on the property and local macrocarpa complete a rustic look.

The natural stone is also a highlight of the bathroom and shower. French doors open off the kitchen/dining area to a broad deck looking down the valley. There's room for up to four guests, with a double bed downstairs and two cosy singles upstairs. The roof is shingled, and all the joinery has been crafted from redwood.

Think Pioneer House, but with added luxury and convenience.

We arrive at Pioneer House 2003 welcomed by Lucky the dog - bilingual and apparently happy to see us in both English and German.

In the fully equipped kitchen are all the ingredients for a leisurely European breakfast - cheese, spicy cabanossi sausage, ham, pate and the family's own relishes. Annegrit supplies home-baked bread when we arrive. A robust barbecue on the deck completes the cooking and dining options.

The European theme is also maintained with the bedding - room-filling, luxurious duvets and big, square, continental pillows. There's one more defiantly European touch - all the light switches are upside down compared to normal Kiwi conventions.

Despite these European quirks, it is difficult to imagine yourself being anywhere else but New Zealand. The bush skyline is studded with cabbage trees, morning mist envelopes a dark and moody valley, and wood pigeons and fantails dart through the scrubby macrocarpa bushes.

At Pitoone you've got real choices to make. Do nothing, catching up on that peace and quiet you need or relaxing with a favourite CD. Do a little, reading that book you thought had passed you by, or do a whole lot more, walking through bush and farmland to the nearby coast.

Annegrit says the name Pitoone means "ending in the sand" in Maori, and it is possible to begin your overland trek at a mini waterfall and creek nearby.

Another choice is to explore the nearby hinterland. There's golf at slightly suburban Matarangi, but a better bet is to explore the more isolated beach at Opito Bay. At Kuaotunu Beach don't miss the raffishly funky coffee caravan at the turn-off to Opito Bay: mismatched outdoor furniture, alfresco draughts and espresso Coffee LaLa - "roasted on the Coromandel".

Back at Pitoone, both the coffee and the wine are good, made extra enjoyable by the bush setting and a lack of interruption from the outside world with no TV. As Annegrit reminds us, "Every night we have sky TV."

The sounds and smells of night, a shared bottle of wine beside a flickering candle, and a star-show better than any satellite dish can offer.

Where to find it

Pitoone B&B, 1120 SH25, Kuaotunu RD 2 Whitianga, Coromandel Peninsula. Phone: (07) 866 2690. Email Pitoone

Getting there

Around two hours from Auckland, on SH25 between Matarangi and Kuaotunu.

What it costs

Bed and breakfast for two adults is $130. Pitoone can sleep up to four people; additional guests $10 each. No eftpos or credit card facilities. Cash or cheque payments only.


Pitoone