Travel writer Ashley Brown enjoyed a relaxing cruise from Wellington to Picton. Picton, nestled in the Marlborough Sounds, boasts a picturesque bay, historic buildings, and palm trees along the water. Photo / 123rf
This week Ashley Brown, our writer from the United Statesreflects on her visit to Picton, and the accolades come thick and fast.
Picturesque Picton! Sorry, couldn’t resist more alliteration — but it really was pretty, nestled on a bay in the Marlborough Sounds with historic buildings and palm trees along the water. It amazes me that many people just pass through here, as the area offers so much natural splendour to explore.
The relaxing cruise from Wellington featured spectacular scenery despite some rain: lush green hills rising gently out of that extraordinary green-blue water.
In Picton, I’d pre-booked a shuttle, and the driver was super helpful (surprise, surprise). He loaded my luggage, gave an overview of the town on the way to the hotel, helped me find my room (you know it’s a safe spot when they leave a note for after-hours arrivals: “Welcome, your unit is #8; key is in the door and milk is in the fridge”!), and carried my bags up the stairs.
I stayed at the Harbour View Motel and loved it — easy walking distance to everything and up on a hill with — you guessed it — a harbour view. My spacious room had a kitchenette, sofa, and table plus a balcony.
The next morning, brilliant sunshine made everything sparkle as I walked to Le Café for breakfast overlooking the water. Then I strolled the main street and along the promenade by the lovely lawn and tiny beach, appreciating how peaceful and pristine it was. Not only was the water that gorgeous colour, but it was crystal clear.
Here, as in previous stops, I was impressed by the public facilities that help make New Zealand feel so welcoming: clean, modern toilets; multiple benches; tidy brick walkways; clear signage; and an array of water fountains that were also pieces of art.
Picton has a plethora of outdoor activities, including all sorts of boat trips as well as hikes you can take right from town. Since I had a boat tour the following day, I set out on a hike through Victoria Domain.
I quickly reached the track to Bob’s Bay by crossing a footbridge over the marina. This was a beautiful trail, meandering by the bay before heading uphill on a tree-lined path.
As I climbed, I kept stopping to take pictures of the fantastic views. Sunlight winked off the water, the fresh air was invigorating, birds sang, a breeze rustled the leaves, and waves lapped the shore below. It was perfect. Best of all, I had it completely to myself.
Another advantage of Aotearoa is the lack of crowds, which was especially apparent in Picton. While locals would like a bit more traffic — tourism was still off due to the pandemic — I enjoyed being able to hike in silence and lose myself in the stunning surroundings.
There was no one on the hidden beach at the end of the track, either. I walked across the pebbly sand, removed my boots and socks, and soaked my feet in the delightfully bracing water. Bliss!
But the next day was even better: the E-ko Tours dolphin cruise, a definite highlight of my trip. The friendly expert staff shared so much knowledge, and it was a small, stable boat (no seasickness guaranteed) so we could get up close for the best viewing.
Being out on Queen Charlotte Sound was breathtaking. Right away we got lucky: several adorable New Zealand fur seals dozing on a little beach. Then as we cruised along, two dolphins leaped high in the air to our right. They began chasing each other back and forth in a seeming competition to see who could swim fastest and jump highest; the acrobatics were awe-inspiring.
Next, we went to Motuara Island Bird Sanctuary, where we spotted kererū and tui on the hike to Cook Strait Lookout, a tall platform with dazzling 360-degree views including Ship Cove where Captain Cook first met local Māori.
On the return trip, we refuelled with complimentary wine, hot chocolate, tea, and biscuits. Then, a pod of dusky dolphins began swimming alongside and in front of the boat. They wove and dove all around us as we cheered.
The guide explained that they found it fun to ride the bow wave because they could swim more efficiently. I was thrilled to be so close to these magnificent creatures, who seemed to be showing off for us.
After we landed, I sat outside at Sisu’s wine bar savouring a Marlborough sauvignon blanc as the sunset turned the sky pink and orange. A neighbouring Kiwi couple struck up a conversation and recommended the mail boat cruise, a wine tour, and walking the Queen Charlotte Track, which I sadly didn’t have time for. Next time!
Then I devoured a bowl of seafood chowder with local mussels at the cosy Oxley’s, set in the town’s oldest building. After a deep sleep, I boarded the bus to Christchurch, on my way to Lake Tekapo.