Central in Lima, owned by Virgilio Martinez and Pía Leó, was crowned best restaurant in the world. Photo / 50 Best
Central in Lima, owned by Virgilio Martinez and Pía Leó, was crowned best restaurant in the world. Photo / 50 Best
South American eateries were the toast of the town at the 50 Best Restaurants 2023, but it was one restaurant which was on the lips of all judges.
Central in Lima was crowned the world’s number one restaurant on Tuesday night.
A constellation of Michelin Stars and white hats descended on Valencia in Spain for the awards, honouring 50 top restaurants from 24 countries.
The Peruvian restaurant owned by Virgilio Martinez and Pía Leó broke the vice-like hold of Denmark’s restaurants, which had held the number 1 spot since 2020.
Ranked second in last year’s list, Central was described as an “ode to Peru”. Using 180 indigenous ingredients it celebrates the biodiversity and history of the region, with some incredibly complex dishes created by the research kitchen, Mater Iniciativa.
Last year’s winner, Geranium in Copenhagen, was elevated to the hall of fame the Best of the Best and was ineligible for this year’s list. As was the 2021 winner Noma by chef Rene Redzepi, which announced that it would be closing in 2024.
After an obsession with the foraging and the Danish new wave, tastes appear to be changing.
This year’s 50 Best was dominated by the Hispanosphere, particularly Spanish and South American restaurants. The Peruvian capital Lima claimed 5 places.
Hispanosphere: Spanish and South American restaurants dominated the awards. Photo / Asador Etxebarri, 50 Best
Spanish restaurants Disfrutar in Barcelona and Diverxo in Madrid took second and third place.
Director of the awards, William Drew, said Central’s recognition was a long time coming.
“Virgilio Martinez, Pía León and the whole Central team have truly paved the way in celebrating indigenous ingredients through their innovative dishes and warm hospitality,” said Drew, who called their commitment to biodiversity and heritage “unmatched”.
Other South American success stories included Kjolle (28), another Lima-based restaurant by Pía León, and El Chato (33) in Bogota.
Chef Pía Salazar of Nuema in Quito was awarded the title of World’s Best Pastry Chef.
Cuenca-born Salazar was commended for helping “put Ecuador on the culinary map” for her experimental bakes turning vegetables into sweet treats - like coconut and black garlic, or leek and vanilla with cedrón, a native verbena herb.
Alchemist Copenhagen (5) was awarded the Art of Hospitality Award, for chef Rasmus Munk’s mysterious culinary tour through industrial docklands of Refshaleøen. The theatrical diner serves up culinary oddities such as seafood and pigeon aged in beeswax. Yum?
Won't believe your eyes: Alchemist Copenhagen (5) was named winner of the Art of Hospitality Award. Photo / 50 Best 2023
Australia and New Zealand pulled a blank with no restaurants making the top 50. However, for the first time Dubai took two places in the ranking, heralding the Emerati city state’s emergence as a dining destination.
“This year’s list continues to show the breadth of culinary talent across the globe, and we look forward to seeing how it evolves even further in 2024 and beyond,” said Drew.
The world’s best restaurants list is voted on by a panel of 1080 judges from the restaurant industry. The awards represent 28 different regions and is an even split for gender-balance.
Since 2019 the awards created a Best of the Best category honouring previous winners and which would be excluded from the main voting, allowing new talent to come through.
The only exception to this rule is Noma which, having won four times previously between 2010 and 2014, was named number 1 again in 2021 following a change of location.
