Penny wise and pound jolly in London

You don't have to take out a second mortgage to spend time in London.

London is, without a doubt, one of the most beautiful, exciting and vibrant cities in the world. The possibilities for adventure are endless, the sights are astonishing and if you are heading for Europe, it would be a shame not to experience some of what this city has to offer on your way.

Unfortunately, as well as being famous for its architecture, culture and history, London is also known as one of the most expensive cities in the world.

But don't let that deter you from visiting because, as every seasoned traveller knows, you don't need to spend a fortune to have a fabulous time.

Aside from the flight which, even on a good day will set you back at least $2000, things can start to get very economical indeed after you have arrived.

Transport

However wretched you feel on arrival at Heathrow, do not take a cab into central London, as it will set you back at least 50 ($130) and the Heathrow Express train is still pricey at 14 ($36.50).

Your cheapest choice is the London Underground at a mere 3.80 ($9.90) one way.

While you are in the city, a week's bus pass costs just 11 ($28.60), or you could splash out on a travel card for 25 ($65), which includes bus and the tube travel.

Buses are great if you're not in a hurry because, although slower than the underground, you can see the sights along the way, the view from the top of one of London's signature double-decker buses is hardly ever dull, and buses run 24 hours a day - unlike the Underground.

In fact, probably the cheapest way to see the city is to give yourself a guided tour by bus. You can ride for a day for 3 ($7.80), getting on and off as much as you would like.

One suggested route is to take the No 94 bus from Piccadilly Circus to Notting Hill Gate. It passes Soho, Oxford St, Bond St, Hyde Park Corner, Hyde Park and Notting Hill.

For invaluable travel advice you can call London Transport 24 hours a day on 0207 222 1234, simply tell the operator where you are and where you would like to go and you will find out everything you need to know, including how long your journey is likely to take.

Accommodation

If you can't stay with friends or relatives try visiting www.gumtree.com, a useful site for finding sublets or short-term rentals. The Gumtree has a great range of bedsits, studios and flatshares available throughout London.

There are a lot of practical reasons to rent your own studio, including being able to do your own cooking, and, provided you're staying at least a week, you can find some for as little as 110 ($290) a week.

If you are intent on saving money, hostel beds can be found for as little as 12 ($31) a night. Try www.piccadillybackpackers.com or www.generatorhostels.com.

House minding is a long shot, but try it if you're feeling lucky.

Food

Buy your lunch at Boots, the chemists. Don't laugh - it has a selection of cold sandwiches that cost about 2.50 ($6.50) and a soft drink is about 1.30 ($3.40). That's cheap. The supermarket Tesco also has reasonably priced food.

Avoid hotel room service or fancy-looking restaurants for lunch - you'll be broke before dinner.

For dinner, think ethnic. Eat your fill for less at street markets or good Indian restaurants, such as Spice of India (12 Bathurst St, Lancaster Gate Tube stop). Dinner is about 15 ($39).

Internet

Access the internet at a cafe, not in your hotel room unless it's free. Many London hotels charge as much as 10 ($26) a day for web access (they also may charge upwards of 2.50 ($6.50) just for using the telephone in your room).

Find an internet cafe where you can pay as little as 1 ($2.60) an hour and mingle with the locals.

Walks

Walking is one of the best - and cheapest - ways to get your bearings in any city, and the Original London Walks Company is the premier operator.

Its walks take two hours, cost just 5.50 ($14.30) and feature many themes, including literature, crime and history. They also feature the English Pub Crawls, which aren't so much about getting drunk as about drinking up the atmosphere in charming, historic inns, from Chelsea to Cheapside.

The tours run 365 days a year, rain or shine, there is no need to book and, because all the guides are licensed, quality is guaranteed. Call 020 7624 9255 for recorded information.
If you don't want a personal guide though, check out Andrew Duncan's wonderful book Walking London (New Holland Publishing, 12.99[$33.80]).

Duncan has compiled a first-class range of walks around London, including all the juicy bits from history and the sights you will want to look for along the way.

Sightseeing

If you're into cemeteries Highgate (Swains Lane, N6) and Nunhead (Linden Grove, SE15) will provide hours of fun. Highgate (3 [$7.80]) is London's most famous burial ground and is where Karl Marx and Christina Rossetti were laid to rest.

Nunhead (admission free) is 21ha of overgrown Victorian cemetery providing amazing views across London. A free guided tour runs on the last Sunday of the month from 2pm.

If you start to feel overwhelmed with culture and history, why not take some air by ambling through any of London's glorious parks?

St James Park has swans, pelicans and ponds.

When you have had enough of Piccadilly and the Ritz go to Green Park, where the green and white striped canvas deckchairs provide welcome respite for weary feet. But be warned, there can be a charge.

Battersea Park on the River Thames has a small zoo and giant Buddha-filled peace pagoda for serenity.

At Greenwich Park you will see the line from where Greenwich Mean Time is measured, although that is more of an intellectual than a visual pleasure.

Hampstead Heath, Hyde Park and Regents Park are all worthy of superlatives. Or, if it's water you want, wander the canals around Camden Lock or Little Venice, or meander along the Thames.

Theatre

London produces some of the world's greatest theatre. From the hottest West End shows to the fringe of the fringe you will be spoiled for choice.

To get tickets to the big shows without breaking the bank visit www.ebay.co.uk or www.lastminute.com, two sites where you can sometimes find tickets to shows such as Mary Poppins or The Producers for as little as 10 ($26). In addition, www.thisislondon.co.uk also sells cheap West End tickets.

Then there's the Half Price Ticket Booth on the south side of Leicester Square (Monday-Saturday 10am-7pm, Sunday noon-3.30pm, www.tkts.co.uk) or, if you don't mind taking a risk, you can go to a theatre an hour before the curtain goes up and hope someone's party of five has become a party of four because of illness or delay.

No guarantees, but definitely worth a crack if you're wandering the West End.

But London has much more going for it than hit musicals and for quality theatre a little off the beaten track you can't beat the Battersea Arts Centre (020 7223 2223, SW11) for interesting, innovative theatre. Best of all, Tuesday is Pay What You Can Afford night.

The Royal Court (020 7565 5000) in SW1 off Sloane Square offers the best deal in London. Each night, an hour before the curtain goes up, eight tickets go on sale for just 10p (26c) each.

These are for performances in the main theatre only and, if the show is sold out, you will have to stand, so try to go nearer the start of the season when you're almost sure to get a seat.

The Donmar Warehouse in Covent Garden sells 20 standing tickets for 5 ($13) each from 10am on the day of the performance. Again, if the show isn't sold out you will be able to sit.

The National Theatre (020 7452 3000, SE1) produces consistently great theatre and the cheapest ticket is 10 ($26). To get this bargain, either book well in advance or queue on the day for one of 20-30 day seats that go on sale at 10am. These also cost 10 each and, be warned, demand runs high, so you'll need to queue well before the box office opens.

The English National Opera (020 7632 8300) is back in its traditional home at the Coliseum and tickets can be had for as little as 5 ($13) on the day.

Movies

The cheapest cinema in town is definitely the Prince Charles. Just off Leicester Square, it plays a range of quality, recently released films, and tickets are 3.50 ($9.10). The Prince Charles is also famous for Friday night sing-a-long screenings of the Sound of Music, although that's much less of a bargain at 13.50 ($35) a pop.

TV and Radio Show

Tapings

For free tickets to BBC television and radio show tapings go to www.bbc.co.uk/whatson/tickets/. You will need to apply two weeks in advance for your chance to see anything from Dead Ringers to Parliamentary Questions.

Galleries and Museums

With so many of London's museums and galleries now offering free admission, there's no excuse for not checking out some art, and London has something to suit every taste.

The Tate Modern, Tate Britain and the National Portrait Gallery (all open late on Friday nights) are amazing galleries housing some of the greatest art in the world, but London is also bursting with funny little museums more famous for curiosities than culture.

The Horniman Museum (SE23) is free and rather unusual, with its mummified monkeys, musical instruments and exotic reptiles. The curator is an enormous and rather mangy old walrus who greets visitors on arrival.

Sir John Soane's Museum is also free and is one of the quirkiest museums of all. It resides in the former home of 19th-century architect Sir John Soane whose extraordinary collection includes paintings, jewellery and sculpture, an eccentric collection to say the least.

The Museum of Garden History by Lambeth Palace houses brilliant exhibitions covering horticulture through the ages and is also where Captain William Bligh is buried.

The museum will appeal to New Zealanders who have an interest in Captain James Cook's botanist Joseph Banks, and the cakes in the cafe are brilliant.

The Imperial War Museum (Lambeth Rd, SE1) is understandably heavy going in content and, over several floors, it provides visitors with the most moving reminders of the horrors of war. This year features an exhibition of Great Escapes

The Monument (Monument St, EC3) is Sir Christopher Wren's creation. Built by Charles II in the 1670s to commemorate the Great Fire of London of 1666, it is a huge Doric column with a gold flame at its top.

Admission is 2 ($5.20) and the price includes a certificate to say you have climbed the 311-step spiral staircase. You will be glad you did because the view from the top is impressive.

Politics and the Law

The Old Bailey (020 7248 3277, EC4) is where the big criminal cases are tried and viewing from the public gallery is free if you fancy giving your feet a rest. Even if you don't go for the show, the courthouse with its copper dome and statues is well worth a look.

The House of Commons Public Gallery at Westminster can also make an interesting free day out. Demand runs highest on Wednesday when the Prime Minister holds Question Time.

If it's debate you're looking for but can't get tickets to Parliament, visit the more accessible Speakers' Corner in Hyde Park, where the impassioned rub shoulders with the lunatic fringe to give their opinions on everything from socialism to space travel. Anyone can have their say - and they do.

Cheap treat

Maison Bertaux (Greek St, W1) was established in 1871 and is one of London's most charming teashops. Here you can linger over a pot of real chamomile or peppermint tea for just 2.50 ($6.50) and the display of sweet treats in the window will have even the most dedicated savoury fan's mouth watering.

Final tip

London is one of the world's top tourist destinations for many reasons, and while it is amazing, it can also be confusing.

One thing you can't be without is a copy of London A-Z, London's famous street map. A pocket-sized edition will cost you only 5 ($13) - and you cannot survive without it.

A guidebook is also a good idea, or the current edition of Time Out magazine, London's weekly listings magazine.

Whatever your pleasures, be they cultural, historical, theatrical, architectural or everything in between, you will find what you're looking for in London, a city where you can have a wonderful time without going bankrupt into the bargain.