The heat of Penang's streets is hard to avoid but the shelter of lanterns is a good pit stop. Photo / Leah Tebbutt
The heat of Penang's streets is hard to avoid but the shelter of lanterns is a good pit stop. Photo / Leah Tebbutt
Against a thick haze, outrageous patches of colour catch my eye as we come in to moor.
Turquoise matched with exuberant yellow fills the coastline of Pangkor Island, just off the western coast of Malaysia in the Strait of Malacca and part of Perak state.
It's only when I pullin closer to the wharf I realise they are fishing boats, anchovy fishing boats.
"And the best ones in the world," Captain Ravi screams over the motor as it grumbles to a halt.
I had never met someone so passionate about anchovies until I met our tour guide, Captain Ravi, who continues to harp on about the common forage fish as we scuttle on to the wharf following the sound of his voice.
"They catch them, and the boat itself has a boiler, that's what makes them so good. If you boil it you don't need the salt you see."
But the passion doesn't stop there. He quickly informs us there are more and more boats but less fish. Something he would like changed.
"No fish, no tourists. But the worst is they are still selling turtle eggs."
The desperation in Ravi's voice and the pleading eyes makes time stand still for a while.
It's clear the Western world view on the environment hasn't hit this remote island - you only have to look for the blocked-out sun through the smoke haze that's been lingering for five months now as farmers burn vegetation to grow palm kernel.
But about 25,000 people live on the island. What would happen if their income dries up?
Droplets of rain interrupt that thought, and we rush to grab a taxi to continue the tour. I can't help but laugh as a maze of bold pink vans await us - clearly the bright colour is cherished by the locals.
Seafood is part of every aspect of life on this island with women collecting shellfish near the mosque. Photo / Leah Tebbutt
Winding streets lead us around the bays of the island where little shacks balance over the sea, the water constantly lapping at their edges - it's a wonder the water hasn't rotted the floorboards through.
"And this, ladies and gentleman, is one of the best sights on the island," Ravi says while spinning around in his chair to check we're coping with the rocky journey.
I look past Captain Ravi and to see what all the fuss is about and I am not disappointed. Set boldly against the island jungle backdrop is one of the most beautiful mosques I have seen.
The white-pillared bridge lures you inside without a second thought and even in the haze and rain-filled day, she still glows.
Once inside, the atmosphere of the One Thousand Al-Badr Mosque makes it feel like it is located in the Middle East.
The mosque balancing on stilts is a sight to see even in the dull rain. Photo / Leah Tebbutt
However, the floating mosque also features Perak's identity in every geometry of its interior decoration. As the name implies, 1000 fine art and calligraphy sculptures fill every part of wall inside and outside the mosque.
The carvings of flowers that adorn each room in the mosque are inspired by the tall flower, better known as the Perak flower - the heritage and symbol of the state.
However, if anchovies and intrepid travel are not really your style, feel free to travel north into the state of Penang, and specifically Penang Island.
If driving, you may even find yourself crossing over the fifth-longest bridge in South East Asia, something you cannot forget in a hurry as the anticipation to make it over is simply unbearable.
With architecture, culture and the hum of people combined, Penang is a state in Malaysia not to miss. Photo / Leah Tebbutt
Penang's history began when Captain Francis Light first landed on the island in 1786.
Light had big plans for the swampy and malaria-infested island, envisioning a port, which came to be the capital, George Town, better known now as an Instagrammer's paradise with street art galore.
Walking down the streets is a journey through history but the colourful artworks beside centuries-old temples, create eclectic photo opportunities at every turn.
Penang's oldest temple, Kuan Yin Temple was built in 1728 and was originally used not only for religious ceremonies but also social functions within the Chinese community.
As I enter, I see sticks of incense - some thicker than my arm. Those burning them hold hope it will open up communication with deities.
Walk down any lane and engulf yourself in fabulous shopping and street art. Photo / Leah Tebbutt
The temple features classic Chinese architecture with carvings of dragons around the stone pillars, high ceilings, and ceramic sculptures of dragons lining the roof ridges.
However, one of the temple's highlights is the beautiful 18-arm statue of Kuan Yin, also known as the Goddess of Mercy and Compassion, and this is just one of many beautiful temples or mosques that adorn the city.
Turn around and you will find yourself walking through streets that weave their way in and out of each other, every turn is a new adventure.
In 2012, Penang's municipal council hired artist Ernest Zacharevic and charged him with breathing new life into some of the atmospheric Chinese shophouses around the inner city.
The result is streets populated with humans waiting for their turn to pose near the art - or if they are clever enough - make themselves part of the art.
But really the lasting effect is a town that you don't want to leave and where one day is not long enough at all.
