Peak time for adventure

By JANE LEIGHS

Aoraki Mt Cook is one of this country's icons, yet many New Zealanders have never experienced the grandeur of our highest mountain and the famous world heritage park that surrounds it.

Aoraki Mt Cook is in the Mackenzie Country, named after New Zealand's most famous outlaw, James McKenzie, a sheep rustler in the 1850s.

The Mackenzie Country covers the area from Fairlie in the north, two hours' drive south of Christchurch, to Twizel in the south, two hours' drive north of Queenstown.

This dramatic countryside is sparsely inhabited and you can imagine losing yourself, as McKenzie did, in the rolling hills to the north, in the golden grasses of the Mackenzie basin or in the harsh beauty of the Southern Alps and glaciers.

Visitors short on time can catch a flight to Mt Cook village, but if you have the time, the trip from Christchurch is one of New Zealand's most spectacular journeys.

The Mackenzie region provides an excellent range of activities and accommodation for families. Many of us have never had the chance to experience farm life, and the area surrounding Fairlie township is dotted with farmstays where you can have a taste of real rural living.

If any youngster needs encouragement, Australia is abuzz with the story that Kylie Minogue spent a holiday at a farmstay.

If that's not enough, the animals, the genuine kindness of the hosts, and the superb cooking make a farmstay a must for a visit to this part of the country.

Taking in the stars at night under the clear skies, before falling asleep to the silence of the countryside is unequalled.

From the Fairlie area, it is a short drive to Lake Tekapo, the township in the Mackenzie region where real estate prices are skyrocketing as people recognise the commercial value of one of New Zealand's most beautiful lakes.

A picnic beside the lake is a rare treat, as is a visit to the Church of the Good Shepherd.

The real high point though will be your first glimpse of Aoraki Mt Cook, which on a clear day can be seen from the road at the top of Lake Pukaki.

The Maori legend of Mt Cook is the story of Aoraki and his three brothers. They were the sons of Rakinui, the Sky Father, and were on a voyage around Papatuanuku, the Earth Mother, when disaster struck and they became stranded on a reef.

They climbed to the top side of the canoe but the freezing south wind turned them to stone. The legend says their canoe became the South Island (Te Waka o Aoraki). Aoraki, the tallest, gave his name to the highest peak, while his brothers formed the Southern Alps.

There is something extraordinary about seeing Mt Cook for the first time, and those who like an aerial view can enjoy flightseeing in fixed-wing planes or helicopters. Many of these journeys take you over the great divide to the West Coast, around the pinnacle of Mt Cook and some even land on the snow.

On the shores of Lake Pukaki is Glentanner Park, where there are accommodation and activities suitable for all the family.

Horse-trekking is popular among visitors. There are a variety of guided treks, for beginners through to experts, and all wind through the high country of this working sheep station.

Glentanner also hires fishing lines and sells fishing licences for those who want to try catching its famously wily fish.

From Glentanner you can book the unique Glacier Explorers boat tour. This visits the melting ice face of the Tasman Glacier, with a commentary on the fascinating geology, history and nature of the region.

Another option is the Cloud 9 Helihike, where you fly about 2000m up Mt Dark to enjoy views of Mt Cook before descending into lush alpine meadows.

This is an excellent tour where you are able to extend yourself as much or as little as you choose, helicoptering up and down or, if you are superbly fit, helicoptering up and trekking down.

Southern Alps Guiding offers another extraordinary experience, glacier sea kayaking. On this trip you kayak into pristine bays surrounded by glacial ice, often kayaking near to and even touching the ice.

At Mt Cook village your first stop should be the DoC information centre. From there you can take one of the short walks or just sit and enjoy this majestic place. The village is often busy in the middle of the summer, so pre-book your accommodation.

Mt Cook