The Left Bank is one of Paris' hidden gems. Photo / Unsplash
The Left Bank is one of Paris' hidden gems. Photo / Unsplash
Yves Saint Laurent named a perfume after it. Numerous songs have been written about it. Despite these celebratory acknowledgements, parts of the Left Bank of Paris remain a mystery to the hordes of tourists crowding the Louvre, the Champs-Elysees and the Place de l’Opera.
Those who love the Rive Gauche, as the Left Bank is known in French, hope it stays this way. Given that Paris is hosting the Summer Olympics next year, it would be wise to go this year if the French capital is in your travel plans for the near future. Thankfully, almost all the construction related to the Olympics is taking place north of the city, leaving the Left Bank relatively unscathed.
Astute observers of French culture are already aware of the metro system RATP’s famous logo discreetly portraying the city of Paris as a feminine facial silhouette outlined by the Seine. To the north and east of the river is the Right Bank with its palace hotels and aforementioned sights to see, and yes, there are certainly famous attractions on the other side of the logo that bring crowds to the Left Bank as well.
The Musee d’Orsay is one of the most impressive cultural institutions in the world, the Musee du quai Branly brings the non-European world to Paris, Les Invalides is a tomb like no other, and the Eiffel Tower is beyond need of presentation. Or is it? Did you know there is an apartment in the Eiffel Tower?
On the Left Bank, even the familiar holds some surprises. The ancient Roman ruins of the Arenes de Lutece, for example. Invisible from the street but accessible through the greenery, this small amphitheatre is an unexpected treasure from the past. At the far southern edge of Paris is Parc Montsouris but next to it is the beautiful little street, Square Montsouris, where no tourist seems to venture. Evocative of times gone by, Square Montsouris is lined with gas lamps illuminating its fine homes, practically untouched by modern times.
The eastern portion of the Left Bank has undergone a monumental metamorphosis in recent decades, forever changing a formerly desolate area of Paris. Not everything is different, though.
The unique and iconic architecture of the National Library of France. Photo / Getty Images
The four towers of the National Library of France may have changed the landscape but the landscape of the centuries-old Jardin des Plantes botanical garden still retains its genteel air. The nearby Mosquee de Paris still welcomes visitors to its tea salon and hammam and the Rue Mouffetard still has its outdoor market on the street that ran all the way to Rome.
At the northern end of Rue Mouffetard, after the scents of baked goods, spiced sausages, fresh fruit and the mind-boggling array of cheeses have commandeered the olfactory nerves, Place de la Contrescarpe provides a congenially youthful atmosphere for a drink at one of the cafes and bars lining its perimeter. Nearby is one of the most striking buildings in Paris, the Institut du Monde Arabe. The building’s window apertures, cleverly designed by famed architect Jean Nouvel, open and close automatically to regulate the building’s indoor temperature so as to protect the collections and temporary exhibits related to the Arab world.
The windows of Paris' Institut du Monde Arabe, right, open and close automatically to regulate the building's indoor temperature and protect the collections inside. Photo / Getty Images
Central to an optimal Left Bank experience is the Jardin du Luxembourg, a green expanse that provides sublime respite from the urbanity surrounding it. Entering from the east, one is greeted by a beautiful fountain and small reflecting pool. Despite its majesty, the Medici Fountain is not even the Jardin’s main water feature; the octagonal Grand Bassin is instead the focus of the grounds extending well beyond to include tennis courts and other athletic facilities, plus a little puppet theatre where children’s laughter emanates at regular intervals during shows – reminiscent of simpler times when entertainment took place without electronic devices.
Catch the Jardin du Luxembourg while it's in bloom. Photo / Unsplash
The Jardin du Luxembourg is the garden of the Palais du Luxembourg, often identified on maps as the Senat. The building is indeed the seat of the French Senate but it also houses an exhibition space that hosts some of the most interesting temporary art exhibitions in Paris. East of the Jardin is the Pantheon, necropolis of France’s leading lights, and further east again is the astronomy tower of the Sorbonne, also reminiscent of simpler times when the study of heavenly lights could be conducted in the middle of a city.
Just a five-minute walk away to the northwest from the Palais and Jardin du Luxembourg is a small, wonderful, upscale hotel for those in the know. An establishment that dispenses with the formality of the palace hotels of the Right Bank, the discreet Esprit Saint Germain replaces it with friendly yet professional personalised service in an intimate atmosphere. The hotel’s chic rooms and suites are complemented by full apartments for a truly at-home experience in Paris.
Affirming this ethos is a large living room separate from the reception area where a fireplace offers warmth in cooler months and cold drinks provide refreshment in warmer ones. Esprit Saint Germain is unique in that it offers an open bar for guests in the afternoons and evenings, champagne included. The hotel is situated just down the block from imposing Saint Sulpice church and its lovely square. Two blocks away is the Odeon Theatre and the still-bohemian charm of Boulevard Saint Germain. A Left Bank location more convenient than Esprit Saint Germain’s is hard to imagine.
Yves Saint-Laurent’s Rive Gauche perfume was marketed as a less formal, more free-spirited product than his traditional scents. Those adjectives sum up the Left Bank rather well. Gustave Eiffel knew; that is why he had a private apartment built for himself within the tower that bears his name.
CHECKLIST: PARIS 2024
GETTING THERE
Fly to Paris with only one connecting flight with airlines including China Southern, China Eastern, Air New Zealand (with partners Air France and Cathay Pacific), Emirates and Singapore Airlines. Talk to your travel agent for the best option.
