Paparoa has had a makeover and offers plenty for visitors, writes Susan Edmunds.
When you think of Paparoa - if you even know such a place exists - your first thought is probably not of a beautiful meal in a heritage building, a burgeoning local arts scene and regular farmers' markets. But the small town of 270 people, about 90 minutes' drive north of Auckland on Northland's wild west coast, is getting a makeover.
We arrived on a rainy Saturday afternoon, looking for something a bit different to do. Driving in on SH12, I was struck by the contrasts of the area. We passed rundown old farmhouses with rusty corrugated iron lean-tos tacked on their sides, just a couple of minutes down the road from huge homes on new lifestyle blocks.
It's a heavily agricultural area - and the popular pub is unashamedly the social centrepiece of the town. But, unlike most of the surrounding country settlements, "the village in the valley" also has at its heart an upmarket restaurant - Sahara, in the heritage National Bank building, built in 1914. It offers something that at first seems out of context.
The menu is simple but excellent, offering four entrees and a similar number of mains. There is a strong focus on fresh and organic ingredients so what is on offer changes regularly. Alun and Adrian came up from Auckland two years ago and thrive on the local produce the area gives them access to. On the day we were there, the chef was indulging his creativity with a flounder and oyster dish made of seafood pulled out of the nearby harbour.
My partner, duly impressed by an entree of prawns and scallops, followed it with the superb flounder and oysters, and I devoured my antipasto salad and pasta of the day in inelegant haste. We polished off the last of our glasses of a local vineyard's pinot gris and decided to wander up the street.
Past the general store - refurbished by its owners and boasting lots of fresh fruit and vegetables and organic produce, we found the Arty Farties in what used to be the town's bowling club. Although recently diagnosed with Parkinson's, Anne Shanks is involved in developing the art scene. The afternoon we dropped by, she was teaching a young mother how to make a quilt, while her daughter happily showed me around the paintings and craft, all produced by locals. Anne hosts kids' gardening and craft clubs, a community garden is well under way and there are plans for an artisans' fair. We left with a coffee table, notebook and a couple of trays of free-range eggs thrown in for good measure.
Further up the hill, we stopped at Matakohe's Kauri Museum. The beautifully renovated old buildings offer a real insight into the area's history - whether it's the historic post office that was in use right up until 1988 when it was moved on to the museum site, the collection of kauri gum or the world's largest kauri slab at 22.5m long. A standout is the museum's Sterling Wing, which includes a replica 1880-1920 six-room home, furnished with original decor. The museum gets about 90,000 visitors a year and, at $35 for a family, is a great way to spend an afternoon. Before leaving, we wandered around the neighbouring brick church and its cemetery, taking in the stunning views (even on a dismal day) out over the local farms and harbour.
Had it been a sunnier day, we would have taken advantage of some of the walks around the area before heading home. There's a new walkway that goes from the village green, along the river and up to an historic pa site.
FURTHER INFORMATION
Getting there: Paparoa is 90 minutes from Auckland.
The farmers' market: Is held every fortnight. The next one is on June 18, 9am to noon on the village green.
Don't miss on the way: Coffee at Cafe Eutopia or authentic Italian at Santa Lucia in Kaiwaka.
Check out: Sahara, ph (09) 431 6833 and the Kauri Museum (ph (09) 431 7417).
