Out of this world

By JENNY ENDERBY and TONY ENDERBY

A series of gasps from those around us created a little movement in the still air. Above us, the massive rock archway was a transition point between two worlds. We had left behind the sparse eucalypt forest, parrots and red dust. Our destination was the subterranean world of damp caves, tree roots and bats.

The air cooled as we walked under the archway and entered a cave 20m across and nearly as high. Dampness replaced the dry Queensland air of the plains, and darkness gradually engulfed us. Only a few shafts of light from the topside world behind us extended this far. Tree roots hung down like fingers from a prehistoric cave dweller and the darkness prompted our imaginations further.

The cave we were in was a lava tube from an extinct volcano. We hadn't expected to find volcanoes in Queensland, let alone one as notable as this. These volcanic tunnels or lava tubes are the main attraction at Undara, 275km from Cairns. The region was recognised as unique and protected in 1992 as the Undara Volcanic National Park.

Anne Atkinson, a local geologist, studied the rock formations for many years before that protection was given. Her studies helped to unlock questions about the "canals" on the Moon which are now thought to be of similar origin.

Her grandson, Thomas, was our guide and the lava tubes were his playground as a child. A question from one of our group, asking how he first found the tubes, was answered, "I just followed the stairs and boardwalks and there they were!"

That casual approach was balanced with an amazing array of facts. We rapidly gained an insight into the formation and discovery of the volcanic lava tubes as we walked.

Imaginations moved from damp caves to rivers of flowing fire as Thomas continued, "The Undara volcano created huge amounts of lava that formed rivers of molten rock. As the outer layer cooled the molten inner layer continued to run inside it.

"That volcano ended its fiery period about 190,000 years ago. Others in the area were active as recent as 10,000 years ago."

What the name Undara meant was quickly answered, too: "It's the Aboriginal word for 'long way', perhaps a reference to the long rivers of rock. Undara has the longest known lava flow in the world, one ending 160km from its volcanic source."

Gradually our eyes became accustomed to the dark. Torches handed to each of us created beams of light that cast unworldly shadows on the walls and ceiling. Lava stalactites and the occasional tree root hung from the ceiling.

"Look closely at the gaps between the lava stalactites," Thomas spoke from the darkness. His torch lit a patch above us, where several tiny shapes moved. "The bats are hanging up there, waiting for night when they'll fly out of the caves to feed."

Imaginations had pictured giant bats but these were the size of mice. Flashes from cameras punctuated the darkness and shouts of delight echoed, accentuated by the acoustic qualities of the tubes.

Walkways and stairs, built over the flows, protected the unique formations from tourist wear and tear and made exploration easy. Behind us the sun's rays penetrated into the subterranean world, their light reflected onto the patterned walls and ceiling. Yet this was only one of many tubes within the national park. We followed Thomas back up the stairs into the world of light and warm, dry air.

Next stop was the Undara Lava Lodge, our accommodation for the night. The lodge sat in the shadow of a huge solitary granite outcrop.

Near sunset we climbed to the top and looked out over the flat plain towards the Undara Volcano. Rather than a mountain, its rim rose only 20m above the surrounding area, making it difficult to see.

How some 23 cubic kilometres of molten rock spread out from that depression across the surrounding plains defied logic. The active volcano of Kilauea on Hawaii with its rivers of fire is today creating a similar series of lava flows.

In the rapidly dimming light, flocks of screeching rainbow lorikeets flitted through the gum trees above us. Their larger relatives the white sulphur-crested cockatoos and grey and pink galahs called from higher up.

Wallabies that were sprawled in the shade to avoid the heat of the midday sun became more active as night fell. They moved silently around us along with a smaller marsupial, the bandicoot.

The moon cast its light over a landscape not dissimilar to its own surface. Two worlds a quarter of a million miles apart had common ground here at Undara. Somehow seeing it in the moonlight was appropriate.

Below the granite rock was a line of refurbished railway wagons, ideally shaped to fit between the eucalypts. These were the unique accommodations of the Undara Lava Lodge. Nearby were the restaurant and shop built in the same style.

The railway-carriage dining cars made an ideal setting for the evening meal from the Fettler's Iron Pot Bistro. We settled for the open-air dining on Mitchell's Deck. Nearby a fire crackled and we joined the after-dinner entertainment of a singalong and a few bush tales around the campfire.

Our restored railway carriage was cosy and didn't need the rocking motion and noise of wheels against railway lines to send us to sleep. Only the occasional calls of the wildlife and night bugs broke the silence.

Daybreak was announced from among the gum-tree branches with an early-morning wake-up call from the kookaburras. Their serenade continued as we followed the aroma of food cooking to a camp breakfast a few hundred metres from the lodge. Kookaburras, cockatoos, crows and currawongs all moved in. Any leftovers or handouts vanished in a flash.

The warmth of the camp fire and a hot cuppa added to the early-morning mist. The breakfast of tropical fruit, bacon, beans and eggs was laid out waiting for us to help ourselves. A slice of bread held briefly above the flames completed the warming process as the bread changed to toast.

Gradually the breakfast crowd drifted away. Hats and boots were donned as we readied ourselves for the cave tours. Geologists spent years discovering and exploring the various caves and arches. We hoped to see it in just over a day.

The dry red dust was a far cry from the turquoise waters of the Great Barrier Reef but was just as impressive. Undara may be off the beaten track but is worth the trip from Cairns or Townsville, to see a landscape that could only be described as "out of this world".

* Tony and Jenny Enderby travelled courtesy of Tourism Queensland. They drove from Cairns to Undara in a Holden Calais from Avis Rental Cars. Their accommodation and tour of the Undara Volcanic National Park were courtesy of the Undara Lava Lodge.

www.undara.com.au