Michele Crawshaw visits a luxury boutique lodge which commands a grand view over the Bay of Islands.
The last time I took in this view I was a teenager watching my father do what boaties reckon can't be done, capsize a hobie cat sailboat - and then go swimming after his jandals, while my mother tried not to drown. With the crowd it drew on the beach, I was sure people would still be talking about my parents' mini marine rescue in the local pub 20 years later.
Thankfully, they're not. The talk these days is about a place called Cliff Edge, a two-year-old boutique lodge that commands perhaps the grandest view of the Bay of Islands you'll hope to find. Set in the hills above the tiny township of Opua, it has 220 degree views of neighbouring Paihia and Russell (the scene of the aforementioned marine rescue).
Hosts Peter and Glennis Meier are used to guests' reactions when they arrive and stroll on to the vast decks which provide those magnificent bay views. The couple built their contemporary four-level lodge around the scenery and wanted to get as close as possible to the water. So Cliff Edge was designed in tiers, with little visible land below, to give the appearance it is sitting on the water.
There are five luxury suites and all have private sunny decks. You can happily spend your time in your suite if you prefer the solitude or mingle with other guests in the open plan lounge. During our stay we met an American couple, golfers from Queenstown and an Auckland couple who wanted to get away from the city for a night.
The Meiers use native and exotic timbers throughout the lodge which is furnished with beautiful antiques, persian rugs and leather sofas, giving it a feeling of cosy elegance. There is an extensive library and a huge selection of videos and DVDs to watch in your room.
Food and wine are a big focus, not surprising given the hosts owned the renowned Casuarina Vineyard Resort in Australia's Hunter Valley for 19 years before setting up Cliff Edge.
Peter, who grew up in Austria before moving to Australia, is a qualified chef and enjoys turning breakfast into a lavish affair with gourmet delights that fill an enormous wooden serving table. One morning we awoke to freshly smoked kahawai, homemade bagels and freshly baked bread as well as the regular choice of fruits, cereals, spreads, juices and hot drinks - there is an espresso machine for guest's use and a comprehensive cooked breakfast menu is an option.
Dinner is an experience not to be missed. Peter describes his food as Mediterrasian - taking inspiration from both Mediterranean and Asian cuisines. The result is top-notch. We enjoyed a seafood menu one night and Asian banquet the next - both of which would have to rival anything you would find at Auckland's finest restaurants. In fact we rated it the best food we've eat02-08-2003 05:00:00en in a long time.
Having worked in the Hunter Valley, the Meiers have an impressive wine knowledge and have selected a list of local and international varietals. Wines are matched with dinner courses and Peter keeps a mental note of guests' likes and dislikes, serving stunning varieties of your favourite style, whether it be verdehlo, pinot gris, sparkling shiraz or a classic chardonnay.
There is a well-stocked liquor trolley in the lounge which you can help yourself to at any time as well as a beer and soft drink fridge near the suites.
Which all makes for a wonderful getaway. The Meiers have got the balance right. They appreciate that guests want time to themselves and don't want to feel like they're staying in someone's home. They appear only at breakfast and dinner and live in a separate area to the main house.
CHECKLIST
Where to find it: Cliff Edge is on Richardson Rd West, Opua, Bay of Islands. Ph (09) 402 6074.
Access: Because it's set on several levels, Cliff Edge is not particularly well designed for wheelchair access.
