The most famous inhabitant of Opononi is no more but Elisabeth Easther discovers that it still has plenty to appeal to visitors.
In 1956, a catchy little tune was released about Opo the Friendly Dolphin. Having made the Opononi Harbour her home for two years, from the spring of 1955 to the summer of 1956, for a handful of months she frolicked for the crowds, interacting with humans and causing quite the sensation at the small seaside community.
She was beloved by all and a bylaw was quickly passed to protect her, making it illegal for anyone to take dolphins in the harbour, but sadly the day after the bylaw was passed, she was found dead among rocks.
Foul play or an accidental death? How will we ever know and even though her legacy includes a jaunty little song, it's hard not to feel a lump in your throat when you hear it, considering how her life was cut short. So to keep her memory alive, it's a good idea to snap a selfie with the bronze statue found outside the historic Opononi Hotel.
Cetacean tragedies aside, Opononi — alongside neighbouring Omapere — is a darling coastal resort, and one of the Hokianga's most culturally significant spots.
Often referred to as the birthplace of Aotearoa, it's estimated that some time around 925AD, the daring Polynesian explorer Kupe led his people across the Pacific to the Hokianga Harbour.
Recognising what a treasure they'd found, they put down roots, calling the place Te Hokianga-nui-a-Kupe — "the place of Kupe's great return" a reference to the great chief's eventual return to Hawaiki as an old man. Attracted to the temperate climate and plentiful kai, his people flourished, and today the area is full of their spirit.
To learn more about the past, the Hokianga Museum and Archive Centre in Omapere contains all manner of treasures.
Watch Rudall Hayward's famous movie about Opo, then admire the original Russell Clarke statue that was vandalised, restored and sent to the museum for safekeeping. Presenting the region's history through photographs, documents and taonga, the team of volunteers are more than happy to share their knowledge.
Then there's sand dune surfing. If you've never tried this obscure sport, this is the place to give it a go. Leaving each day from Opononi Wharf, operators take visitors across the water to the giant 300m sand mountains. Once at North Head, "sand-boards" are provided, as is training and up the sandy alps you'll trudge, then down the dunes you'll whizz. And if the tide is in, and you fancy a dip, you can skim all the way into the water — so take your phone out of your pocket and if your need for speed isn't that strong, dig your toes in to brake.
The new statue of Opo is unveiled. Photo / Peter de Graaf
For those visitors who think geology rocks, set a course for Waione Rd, 6km from town, where you'll find the Koutu Boulders. These substantial curiosities — balls of rock around 3m in diameter — can be found on the sand between Koutu and Kauwhare. Strolling among the orbs, more than likely you'll be the only people there as you marvel at their size and try to imagine their origins. And though size isn't really something to brag about, these balls are three times the size of the Moeraki Boulders.
On and around the water there are plenty of aquatic activities like fishing, stand-up paddleboarding and kayaking as well as safe beaches for younger swimmers. And surely the best-loved land-based excursion in the region is a trip to the giant kauri trees in Waipoua Forest.
The perfect way to experience these towering giants is with Footprints Waipoua, described by Lonely Planet as the experience of a lifetime. Hosted by local Maori guides, the four-hour Twilight Tours is an absolute treasure combining myths and legends, waiata and wonder.
One of these trees, Te Matua Ngahere, is thought to have stood for more than 3000 years. More than likely you'll also hear kiwi and morepork, and see weta, so goosebumps are pretty much guaranteed.
Of course you'll have worked up an appetite, so, if there are tables available, think about dining on the generous veranda at the Opononi Resort Hotel where the views out to the Hokianga Harbour and the dunes beyond will blow your mind.
The Landing Cafe is also well-liked, and handily close to the i-site where you can figure out what you're going to do next. Another highly regarded establishment is Opononi Beach Takeaways, complete with a life-sized statue of Opo on their roof.
Order the freshest fish and chips, and enjoy your meal by the water — although stay alert or you'll be sure to have your new best friends, a flock of hungry seagulls, joining you for dinner. Bon appetit!
