On the run in the Sydney sun

Feeling like a wanted man, STEVE HART explores Sydney's many treasures.

WANTED: Steve Hart. $8000 reward.

Yes, there it was in black and white - I was a wanted man. The poster at the police station couldn't have been clearer and perhaps helped to explain the double takes I had received from the men at passport control.

Perhaps I was lucky to have got this far - but then I was cunningly disguised wearing men's clothes. Among the crimes listed were stealing horses, robbery, murder and riding with a notorious gang led by Ned Kelly.

Reading the poster at the Justice & Police Museum at Circular Quay, Sydney, was a strange experience and I wondered if Hart and I could be related.

My namesake rode and died with the Ned Kelly Gang. An excellent horse rider by all accounts, Hart dodged the police by dressing as a woman. He fell in 1880, aged just 21.

"Here's to a short life and a merry one!" he's quoted as saying.

He got his wish - it was short. But only he knows how merry it was.

The museum started life as the Water Police Court almost 150 years ago before becoming a police station. Today it exhibits murder weapons, charts the history of crime in Sydney (give yourself plenty of time for the visit) and has mug shots of criminals from more than 50 years ago. It's eerie, spooky and chillingly interesting.

It's unlikely Hart made it to Sydney, but I wondered what he'd make of it all today. There are few horses in the city and no one would give him a second look in his dress, Sydney being such a cosmopolitan place. But I'd bet he would welcome the chance to sip and eat in the many bars and cafes in and around Darling Harbour, Circular Quay and Cockle Bay.

Perhaps he'd join the many performing buskers. He could thrill the crowds with his horseriding skills before delivering the standard "we don't get paid to be here" speech and ask for $5 from members of the crowd.

Or maybe he'd be a cab driver.

Unlike the one I found, I wager Hart would have offered some thrilling conversation - tales of his escapades with the Kelly Gang, perhaps.

During a 30-minute journey around the city our driver spoke perfect English on just three occasions.

"Hello." "Yes." And "$45 please."

The rest of the time he chatted in Arabic on a mobile phone - thwarting attempts to ask about the buildings whizzing by.

It's almost a right of fare-paying passengers to engage the driver in lively, topical conversation about issues of the day.

I plucked up the courage to pitch a left fielder - a question that would grab any taxi driver's immediate attention. A question he would never expect. I coughed to clear my throat. His eyes shifted left.

"So, how long you been cabbing?"

He showed me three fingers.

"Three weeks?"

He pulled his hands further apart as if to describe the one that got away.

"Three years?" I ventured.

He nodded, returning his gaze to the road ahead.

"Oh, that's nice."

Like me, Hart would have enjoyed Darling Harbour - on the doorstep of museums, the Sydney Aquarium, shops to match anything you'd see in London and a choice of ferry excursions.

Because so many places are within walking distance of each other a lot can be squeezed into a visit of a few days.

A tour of the Sydney Opera House on Bennelong Pt lasts the best part of an hour and gives an interesting insight into the history, politics and orange segment design of the building's roofs.

Take a tour in the morning, as rehearsals sometimes close off some of the building's five theatres to afternoon visitors. Seeing a performance offers the ultimate appreciation of the building - but book ahead, as the best tickets always sell fast.

Be prepared to be distracted as you meander along the quayside from the Opera House. Restaurants, cafes, bars and street entertainers will sidetrack and stall you at every turn.

To capture the best photographs of the Opera House take a ferry to Taronga Zoo at Mosman - as the ferry leaves Sydney Cove it passes in front of the building, offering an uninterrupted view. Be sure to get on the right-hand side of the vessel as it leaves.

Take a three-minute bus to the zoo from the ferry terminal at Mosman or catch the nearby gondola for great views on a sunny day.

The zoo is spread across a hill - so it's best to start at the top and work your way back to the ferry terminal for the return journey.

There's a major refurbishment going on there - but visitors can still pose for pictures with koalas at 10.30am and 1.30pm, for $2, see the seal show (get in early for the best seats) and sit on a bench eating a packed lunch while watching the chimps, giraffes, zebras, and taking in the view of the Harbour Bridge and city skyline.

On the journey back to Circular Quay you'll have a chance to gaze at Fort Denison, more commonly known as Pinchgut - probably a place that would send a chill down the spine of Hart.

A building on the small island was originally used to house troublesome convicts. It is now a heritage site that can be visited only as part of an organised tour.

Back on dry land, we are just 15 minutes from the Sydney Aquarium on the eastern end of Pyrmont Bridge where visitors can get within centimetres of sharks. Smaller fish are also a big feature.

Australia's marine life swim in an aquarium made up of huge panels at least 4m tall.

Sydney's a busy place, but watching fish helps you to relax in readiness for tea at the Chinese Gardens of Friendship two minutes away.

The 10ha garden is peaceful with plenty of places to sit and watch the colourful koi carp rise to the surface of the lake for a quick gander before disappearing beneath the water.

All around are waterfalls, mini mountains, huge rocks imported from China and pavilions offering shelter from the sun or rain. It's designed so visitors can't see the whole garden from any one point - you have to explore all its nooks and crannies.

Sitting there with a cup of tea, nibbling on Chinese cakes, it was hard to imagine that Sydney has the largest Chinese garden outside the People's Republic. The only disappointment was a tacky operation whereby visitors have their photographs taken wearing Chinese gowns.

Hart might have enjoyed that, I thought.

Outside, live music filled the air - musicians playing guitars while swinging above the crowd on ropes - hungry seagulls squawked and made a beeline for anyone they thought had food. A miniature land train swept by, carrying people along the river's edge. For a moment I almost thought I heard a horse's hooves.

The spell broken, the sun setting, my thoughts returned to the Kelly Gang and my namesake - soon to feature in a movie. What would they do at the end of the day?

Silly question. I caught the barman's eye ... a drink for me and one for my friend.

* Steve Hart was hosted by Flight Centre, Medina Grand Apartments and SmartVisit Solutions.

CASE NOTES

Getting there

Flight Centre is offering return flights and two nights' accommodation in Sydney starting from A$599 a person flying from Auckland, Hamilton, Wellington or Christchurch. The offer is valid for travel from May 1 to August 31. There is a A$100 surcharge for travel from July 1 to 20. The package is available until May 12. Taxes are charged extra. Ph 0800 243544.

Where to stay

Your choice of B&Bs, motels, hotels and serviced apartments.

The Medina chain offers fully serviced properties across Australia with a fair few in Sydney. Recommended is the Medina Grand Harbourside, King St Wharf, Darling Harbour. It's a few minutes' walk to the business centre, retail stores, top tourist attractions, transport and ferries.

It offers commanding views of Darling Harbour and the city skyline from many of its 114 apartments. One bedroom apartments have a fully equipped kitchen with oven, stove, dishwasher and fridge/freezer, washing machine, dryer and sink.

Studio rooms start from A$195 a night and one-bedroom apartments start from A$235. Price includes continental breakfast, newspaper and car parking. Minimum stay is two nights Friday to Sunday or three nights midweek.

Where to eat

There is no shortage of places to eat - there's everything from fast food snacks to fine dining.

Recommended is the Bakers Oven Cafe at 121 George St, The Rocks - don't let the name put you off. At the front is a fine bakery offering wonderful pastries and cakes. At the back is an informal courtyard restaurant offering something for everyone. Less than A$100 will buy a fine meal for four (no children's portions though) including drinks.

What to see and do

One option for paying for entry to many of the attractions is the Smartvisit card. For a fixed price you can skip the queues for tickets at many places (because you have already paid).

The card covers more than 40 attractions in Sydney and the Blue Mountains and includes harbour cruises, historic houses, museums, galleries, wildlife parks, Taronga Zoo and sightseeing tours. Just present the card and you're in.

A one-day card costs A$59, adult (16 years and over) and A$39 for children aged over 5. Ph 0061 2 9247 6611.

Entry to the Sydney Aquarium is A$49 for a family ticket (two adults, three children). Expect to spend two hours there.

Powerhouse Museum is A$23 for a family ticket. The museum offers a broad range of science, technology and social history. At present it has a film special effects exhibition on.

A guided tour of the Sydney Opera House is A$51.50 for a family of four - tours last about one hour (booking is recommended). Ph 0061 2 9250 7777.

Advisory

While the Sydney Smartvisit Card offers convenience, some places that accept it, such as the Powerhouse Museum, charge additional fees for entry to visiting attractions.

Tourism NSW

City of Sydney

Flight Centre

See Sydney and Beyond

Medina Apartments