Oman: Watch for the warning flags

Old Muscat's modern and historical forts and palaces are striking. Photo / Jim Eagles

Forts and watchtowers by the hundred in the sultanate of Oman point to a fierce past, notes Jim Eagles, and possibly an equally fierce present.

"There must have been a lot of fighting round here in the old days," I remarked to Ali as we we passed yet another impregnable-looking stone tower perched on top of the sheer rocky peaks that surround the old city of Muscat.

"No. Why? Why do you say that?" Ali, my Oman guide asked defensively. "This is a very peaceful place."

Well, I explained, for a peaceful place there seemed to be a lot of forts around.

"No, no. There are not a lot of forts. That is not a fort," he said, indicating the tower above us. "That is a watchtower."

I must have looked sceptical because he continued: "Watchtowers are not for fighting. They are in every village. They are so the village can keep watch for thieves coming to try and steal their goats."

Hmm. Maybe. But the watchtowers I had seen, with their steep walls topped with battlements, looked pretty warlike to me. And, as Ali later acknowledged when we passed them, there are also at least three forts in Muscat though, unfortunately, none is normally open to the public.

The Jalali and Mirani Forts were apparently built by the Omanis centuries ago and strengthened by the Portuguese after they conquered the country in the late 1500s. They still serve a strategic purpose today being either side of the Sultan's magnificent new Al Alam Palace.

Then there is the Mutrah Fort sitting on a craggy peak above Muscat's main souk, where you can buy everything from camel leather sandals to ornate, curved Khanjar daggers, and overlooking the port, where traditional dhows rub moorings with the Sultan of Oman's huge new luxury yacht.

The fort's capture by Omani forces in 1654 is celebrated as a key moment in the battle for independence from the Portuguese but, even though it has been restored as a nationalist icon, you still aren't allowed inside.

To make the city seem even more formidable, most of the new houses look like small white forts, each with their own walled compounds, and the massive Omani Government buildings that dot the plush embassy district resemble huge castles.

True enough, Oman today seems incredibly peaceful, hospitable and law-abiding. In fact, Ali made a point of not locking his van to underline his confidence that "no one will steal from us in Oman", but it clearly has a strong military heritage.

Fishermen check their lines, while across the harbour, the Sultan’s sleek yacht forms a backdrop to an elderly fishing dhow. Photo / Jim Eagles

That became even more obvious when we left Muscat. Not only were most of the houses again like small forts - even their water tanks had battlements - almost every peak had a stone watchtower on it and every old town was guarded by a powerful castle.

The biggest and one of the oldest is the massive Bahla Fort built 800 years ago by the then-powerful Banu Nabhan tribe to protect the villages — 29 of them apparently — gathered round the adjacent oasis.

Unfortunately, its massive gates were closed the day we came calling but, from a vantage point high above, it looked enormous — a castle rather than a fort — its mudbrick walls and towers soaring 50m above the sandstone rise on which it was built.

It looked in perfect condition but Ali explained that the walls were in a bad state until in 1987 the fort was named by Unesco on its list of world heritage sites in danger, sparking a 20-year restoration effort.

Almost as spectacular as the castle were the villages gathered under its protection, largely consisting of traditional adobe homes surrounded by groves of date palms, all surrounded by a single wall — Ali said it was 24km long but I've since read it is 12km, with 15 gates and 132 watchtowers.

Bahla apparently has a reputation for magical events and one legend has it that the entire wall was built in a single night.

Another legend says, a little more believably, that the wall was built by women.

Whatever the truth, it's an extraordinary sight.

It was the seat of power of the imams who ruled the country for many centuries. Most of the fort itself was built by one imam in the 9th century and a distinctive round citadel, designed to meet the needs of the age of gunpowder, was added by another in the 17th century.

Locals pose under the shadow of Mutrah Fort, Oman. Photo / Jim Eagles

Restored under the auspices of Unesco, today it houses a superb series of exhibitions that tell the history of Nizwa and its fort, Oman and its culture; in the process making it clear that there is a reason the countryside is dotted with fortifications and it isn't all to do with goats.

In the course of its history Oman has several times been invaded, most notably by Persians, Arabs, Turks and Portuguese, and has suffered several internal conflicts.

The most recent civil war, pitching dissatisfied tribal leaders and the exiled imam against the Sultan, didn't end until 1976.

Indeed, Ali took us to a unique memento of the conflict, the wreckage of an RAF Strikemaster shot down by the rebels in 1973 and these days in a small fenced off enclosure on the edge of the Royal Army of Oman's firing range.

It all seemed very peaceful, until I noticed a sign saying that on days when the flag was flying visitors should watch out for artillery fire - and turned round to see a flag fluttering just over the fence.

CHECKLIST

Getting there: Etihad Airways and Air New Zealand operate a codeshare partnership from Auckland, via Australia and Abu Dhabi, then on to Oman.

Further information: World Expeditions offers several journeys to Oman.

The writer visited Oman with help from Etihad Airways, Air New Zealand, World Expeditions and Oman Tourism.