While the bright lights and Blackjack table draws punters to the Las Vegas strip, it’s Old Town Vegas that’s a veteran of razzle-dazzle, writes Rachel Ward.
Think Las Vegas, and what springs to mind: the Bellagio fountain, Pyramid-shaped casinos, Ocean’s 11?
But there’s more to the city than that. If you feel like a break from the bright lights of the Strip, why not try the bright lights of Downtown Vegas, and the place where it all began, Fremont St.
Fremont, built in 1905, was the original heart of the city, named after Western explorer and politician John C Fremont. It became the city’s first paved street in 1925 and was eventually home to the first legal casino.
And we’re staying around the corner, for a taste of old-town Vegas.
Don’t get me wrong, the Fremont St area is still a gambling hotbed, with a Vegas party vibe - it’s just a little more low-key.
At least it is during the day. At night its six-block pedestrian-only thoroughfare is alive with tourists, street performers, live music, souvenir shops and eateries all beneath an impressive light canopy, made of almost 12 million LEDs.
This is the Fremont St Experience, a purpose-built entertainment hub complete with a zipline.
But we’re taking a glimpse at the other side of the area, the aspects the locals might see and spend time in.
Our first day starts at a distinctly touristy spot, however, the Mob Museum, located across the street from the Downtown Grand Hotel where we are staying.
Officially known as the National Museumof Organised Crime & Law Enforcement, it covers four floors and is a fascinating look into the history of Las Vegas and the wider story of the Mob in America.
From Lucky Luciano, to Tony Soprano, the St Valentine’s Massacre to Murder Incorporated, the labyrinthine halls tell the century-something history of organised crime in a venue with a distinct speakeasy feel to it.
Take the narrated tour for a running commentary and ask any of the museum assistants if you have any other questions. You will, it’s fascinating.
From a wall of who’s who of the Mob world to interactive displays and exhibitions – including a crime lab and firearm training simulator – there is plenty to take in so make sure you give yourself lots of time. We spent 75 minutes there and it could have easily been longer.
The idea that North American food is all cheeseburgers and fries is not without precedent but there is a new scene emerging in Vegas, the foodie tour - and we are going to grab a slice of it on a Lipsmacking Foodie Toursrestaurant crawl.
Meeting our tour guide Tom, we start our progressive dinner of, as one restaurant describes its fare, “creative American cuisine and thoughtfully crafted cocktails”. And it’s a revelation. I loved the chicken and red velvet waffle slider at Therapy and my travel companion was won over by a beetroot carpaccio at Carson Kitchen. Our tour companions (American, almost exclusively) were particularly taken with the chicken skins - fried, and drenched in locally sourced honey.
Take the beverage package and you’ll get a cocktail at each stop - delicious creations, all of them.
There is a little walking between venues, but nothing too strenuous, and Tom knows plenty about the colourful stories and characters of the area.
The tour takes about 2.5 hours, with three to five dishes per stop. You will not go hungry - or thirsty.
As the evening descends we make our way to the Neon Museum, a short Uber ride from Downtown.
If Vegas runs on gas, that gas is neon. Thanks to the 10th element of the periodic table, the lights of the city can be seen from space. Now there is a non-profit organisation dedicated to saving and restoring the glorious lights of Vegas’ colourful past.
Many sit as dusty relics awaiting some TLC, others glow brilliantly, fully restored.
You’ll see all the lights up close and personal in the “Boneyard” section of the museum. And these lights have a history, which is expertly told by our tour guide, Randy.
Like the famous Moulin Rouge sign that was from the hotel of the same name - the first majorly racially integrated casino - to the famous Hard Rock Cafe guitar and the “Andy” Anderson milkman, the tour is as much a story of America as it is of Vegas itself.
Within a few days, we are concluding our Vegas stay with a few nights staying on the Strip. On the surface, the two areas look the same - bright lights, big city, tourists.
But there is an aspect of downtown/old-town Vegas that feels different from its brash(er) big brother. It has more of a neighbourhood feel, a little more bohemian, perhaps?
If you are making the journey to Vegas, make sure you spend a little time downtown.