Seeing the mountains from this perspective is nothing short of amazing. Photo / Supplied
Seeing the mountains from this perspective is nothing short of amazing. Photo / Supplied
A view from above takes a Tongariro National Park experience to new heights, writes Justine McLeary.
Countless books have featured lyrical descriptions of snow-topped mountains, but no one has summed up the beauty of them quite as succinctly as our 2-year-old did on a recent trip to Ohakune.
She and her big brother had never seen the mountains before. They bounced around in their seats on the way to the Desert Road, eager to be the first one to spot Ruapehu. It loomed into view as we round a corner and Miss Two let out a rather colourful word.
It wasn't quite the reaction we were expecting. To be fair, though, the mountains did look beautiful.
We're here to explore the area on a quick getaway before summer ends. Best known as a winter destination, Ohakune's a popular base for skiers and snowboarders. But the mountains are equally spectacular in autumn, so when a friend offered us a scenic flight over Tongariro National Park, we jumped at the chance to see them from the air.
This quaint town sits on the southern edge of Tongariro National Park. It's pretty quiet at this time of year, bar the odd tramping group presumably in town to do one of the many great walks in the area.
Ohakune is within easy distance of the Tongariro Alpine Crossing and the Old Coach Road starts from just out of town. This history-packed five-hour track between Ohakune and Horopito can be walked or cycled.
We'd planned to explore off-road, but the kids are in no mood for exercise. All they want to do is kick around the playground at the holiday park we're staying in.
Designed with families in mind, Ohakune Top 10 Holiday Park is just off the main drag, within easy reach of eateries, bush walks, shops and the iconic big carrot. The kids have been clamouring to touch the latter since we passed it on the way in, but when we walk down there Miss Two decides she's scared her touch will topple the giant monument. She won't be persuaded otherwise.
We abandon the carrot and wander homeward via the Jubilee Walkway, one of the few walks around here suitable for toddlers. At 1.5km, it loosely follows the path of the Mangateitei Stream, winding through forest and finishing at the southwestern end of town. Here you can link to the Mangawhero River Walkway and continue on to the northern end of Ohakune, though the track is steep in places so good footwear is recommended.
Ohakune's a popular base for skiers and snowboarders, who flock to nearby Mt Ruapehu. Photo / NZH file image
Our round-the-mountains flight the next morning is called off due to wind but we're promised afternoon conditions will be better. To fill in time, we drive up Ohakune Mountain Road to Turoa ski field, just for a look. We're not dressed for the elements so we don't linger.
Back in the warmth of the car I call the flight company to be told there's a flight leaving in an hour. We're 50 minutes away.
"Try your best to get here," they tell me. So we hurtle down the mountain — an adventure in itself as this road is incredibly steep — and somehow make it in time. There's no time for lunch.
We're soon loaded into the six-seater plane and given a set of headphones each. The kids look like chipmunks, their little cheeks squashed outward by the headphones, but they don't care. They're too busy bouncing around in their seats again, excited at the thought of getting airborne. So are we.
Up in the air, the view is breath-taking. Sunlight bounces off the snow atop Ruapehu, and the Blue and Emerald Lakes look, well, as colourful as their names suggest. In contrast, the crater lake and lava trails are a grim reminder that these mountains aren't always so welcoming.
Miss Two enjoyed herself at Ruapehu and in the surrounding alpine area, which is spectacular in autumn. Photo / Supplied
Far below, trampers on the Tongariro Alpine Crossing wind down the mountainside like a small army of ants, and a dilapidated shed stands in Ruapehu's shadow, looking like it belongs on a postcard.
Seeing the mountains from this perspective is nothing short of amazing.
"That was awesome," says the 4-year-old as we land. He's summed up Ohakune perfectly.
Seeing the mountains from this perspective is nothing short of amazing.
The Ohakune Old Coach Road is the start of the Nga Haerenga National Cycle Trail Mountains to Sea trail.
The full three day/two night trail makes a 1600m vertical decent over 200km (including a 31km river section on jet boat), but the Ohakune start of the trail, the Ohakune Mountain Road, is grade 2 and participants from 5 to 77 years old can successfully ride it. Autumn is a gorgeous time to see the colours and avoid the hot weather.
From the Ohakune Railway Station, the historic Ohakune Old Coach Road to Horopito is a cobbled route once used by horse-drawn coaches that runs through patches of virgin native forest.
The next section, the Hapuawhenua Viaduct is a highlight of the Mountains to Sea including a 1908 curved lattice viaduct of concrete piers and steel towers and the pitch black Hapuawhenua Tunnel. The Old Coach Road section is 15km and takes 3-4 hours by bike, or it can be walked. Local company Mountain Bike Station has bike hire and can provide pick ups and drop offs.
Be prepared: Some trail sections have limited cellphone coverage. Dress for seasonal weather changes and check the weather forecast. Mountain bikes with front suspension are recommended for riding the trail.
Mountain Bike Station has tailor-made, self-guided Mountains to Sea packages, along with bike rental, transfers and food drops. Phone: 0800 385 879.
NEED TO KNOW
Mountain Air operates from the Chateau Airport, at the intersection of the turn-off to Whakapapa Village and State Highway 47. Flights operate daily from 8am, weather permitting (closed until 1pm on Anzac Day). Bookings preferable but not essential, flights leave on demand with a minimum of two people. No age limit.
