View of Abraham Lake and Allstone Peak from the David Thompson Highway in the Rocky Mountains near Nordegg. Photo / Lacey Gilmour, @laceylannae
View of Abraham Lake and Allstone Peak from the David Thompson Highway in the Rocky Mountains near Nordegg. Photo / Lacey Gilmour, @laceylannae
Forget Banff, it’s time to put Nordegg on your radar. Arguably Canada’s prettiest undersought destination, discover it before the masses catch wind, writes Jessica Wynne Lockhart.
With the summer sun hanging high in the sky, kids dive below the surface of Abraham Lake, their giggles echoing through the valley.
One of the largest lakes in Alberta at 32km long, it’s everything you’d expect a Canadian mountain lake to be: The most unbelievable shade of blue; backed by a postcard-perfect mountain range; and cold as hell. Yet, despite its beauty, we’re the only ones on its rocky shore.
If someone told me I could have entire landscapes of glacial lakes and mountain peaks all to myself in Alberta’s Rockies at the height of summer — and at the height of tourism season — I’m not sure I would have believed them.
But that’s the beauty of Nordegg, a largely unsung region just east of Banff National Park. You won’t find much here in the way of restaurants, shopping or hotels (although there any plenty of campgrounds and Airbnbs). Instead, it’s just pure, unbridled nature, with a mere fraction of the tourists in Banff.
Abraham Lake, one of Alberta's largest lakes, is renowned for its striking blue hue and its backdrop of picturesque mountain ranges. Photo / Jessica Wynne Lockhart
“We only just got roadside signs,” says Danielle Fortin when I pop into the Nordegg Canteen. As a member of Explore Nordegg — which promotes tourism to the region — Fortin was involved in ensuring the area finally got highway signage for tourists indicating where to turn off for hikes or attractions. It was needed, she says. In the past few years, the region has slowly gained traction, thanks in part to Abraham Lake’s good looks. During the winter, photographers flock here for its pretty methane bubbles, trapped in the lake’s icy surface.
But Nordegg isn’t the Rocky Mountains’ only secret. As a born-and-bred Albertan who is still discovering new spots, here are my insider tips for getting away from the crowds.
1. Cool off in Whitegoat Falls
Mountain waterfalls are a dime a dozen. Finding one you can swim in? That’s a taller order. Fortin recommended our group — which included four adventurers aged 8-12 — try the “kid-sized” Whitegoat Falls, just across from Abraham Lake.
As a testament to how underdeveloped this spot is, the hike starts from the Cline Waste Transfer Station. (Yup. The dump. Don’t judge.) From there, it’s a relatively easy 2km hike to Cline Creek and its stunning double punchbowl waterfall, which I’d describe more as “all-ages-sized”. The more adventurous can also opt to climb to its top, where they’ll find a second smaller waterfall.
Whitegoat Falls is a hidden natural wonder near Abraham Lake, accessible via a relatively easy 2km hike that starts unusually from the Cline Waste Transfer Station. Photo / Jessica Wynne Lockhart
2. Test your limits at Horseshoe Lake
Once you leave Nordegg and enter Banff and Jasper National Parks, things tend to be more well-signposted and, consequently, more well-trafficked. But you’ll have to be diligent to spot the small car park for Horseshoe Lake, roughly 30km south of Jasper. You’ll glimpse water almost immediately, but you’ll need to continue into the woods beyond to arrive at the top of towering cliffs, which hem in a deep U-shaped lake. On a hot summer’s day, you’ll see adrenaline junkies jumping from as high as 25 metres into the water below.
Unfortunately, accidents do happen, which is why Parks Canada advises against cliff jumping. Fortunately, Horseshoe Lake is also a lovely spot to stand-up paddleboard, swim, or enjoy a picnic while gazing out at the aquamarine water.
Man meets the aurora in Jasper National Park. Photo / Ryan Bray
3. Go for a burger and beer at Jasper’s Royal Canadian Legion
While Kiwis might not find it altogether unusual to go to the RSL for a beer, the concept is unusual in Canada, where “legions” (Canada’s answer to RSLs) are typically considered relics of the past.
That’s not the case in Jasper, where the legion’s patio is packed on nearly any warm day of the week. Set just back from the main tourist strip, The Stand Easy — as Jasper’s legion is known — offers drink flights so you can sample the 14 craft beers or cocktails on tap,; hosts regular music gigs and has a moderately priced menu of pub favourites. Don’t expect anything fancy, but do expect to rub shoulders with the locals.
Skating on Abraham Lake over methane bubbles. Photo / Jennifer Fast, @jennexplores
4. Stay at Jasper’s Forest Park Hotel
Jasper’s Forest Park Hotel might be the furthest distance from its downtown strip of restaurants and shops, but it’s the town’s newest spot to sleep. In fact, when it opened in 2022, it was the first new hotel to open in Jasper National Park in nearly 40 years.
Request a room in the entirely new Alpine Wing, where you can cook up a feast on a well-equipped in-room kitchenette. Prefer to eat out? Town is still only a 15-minute walk away.
The Jasper Park Hotel. Photo / Jessica Wynne Lockhart
5. Visit in the shoulder season
The biggest secret? Summer and ski season are overrated. Time your trip for spring (March to June) and autumn (September to November).
This is when skies are darker and clearer; it’s even possible to see the northern lights on occasion, with Jasper’s annual Dark Sky Festival (Oct 13-22, 2023) celebrating its status as a Dark Sky Preserve. It’s also when wildlife is most active. During the spring, animals are at lower altitudes while they wait for snow in high-alpine areas to melt, and in autumn they’re foraging and fattening up for the winter.
As a bonus, crowds thin out and prices drop considerably during the shoulder seasons, making your time in the Rockies more intimate and memorable.
