Sara Bunny takes a wintry trip to the top of the South, where good wine warms the cockles and the sparkling Marlborough Sounds is a boost for the soul.
There are two types of wine tasters in Marlborough. The aficionados who can talk brix levels with the best of them, and the happy amateurs who nod along as if they know their notes of gooseberry on the nose, but really haven't a clue. Although firmly in the second group, it wasn't about to stop me from sipping, sniffing and swirling some of the country's best vino on a long weekend getaway.
Here, where the neat vine rows cut endless swathes through the Wairau Valley, it's easy to see how Marlborough produces mind-boggling amounts of the good stuff. You can sample the local grape juice in Blenheim, with award-winning Lawson's Dry Hills winery right in town, or head 15 minutes out to Renwick where the huge line-up of cellar doors has earned it the nickname Golden Mile. Slightly further up the road, top spots like Spy Valley Wines sit nestled beneath the area's commanding rugged hills.
At Mahi Wines in Renwick, gregarious Max Bicknell emerges in Swanndri and gumboots to greet us. On a tour behind the scenes, he entertains with tales of parties in the wine cave, and syphons tasters for us to try in the barrel room. A family-run operation with relaxed vibes and standout wines, it even has a fireside library nook that's perfect for winter imbibing.
Max Bicknell at Mahi Wines enjoys welcoming visitors to the cellar door. Photo / supplied
Over at Framingham Estate, we find music lyrics printed on the pavers outside, good tunes at the cellar door, and a range of top drops from some of the area's oldest riesling vines. Winemaker Andrew "Brownie" Brown follows his taste buds rather than vino trends, holds regular jams at the winery's basement gig space and shuns the idea that wine has to be serious. "What we're doing, it's not exactly neurosurgery," he says with a grin. "You may as well have some fun with it."
At Forrest Estate, there is in fact a hint of neuroscience – owners John and Brigid Forrest swapped medical careers for growing grapes. In front of a roaring fire, we happily sample chardonnay, albarino, malbec and more, while nearby tables of punters enjoy tasting flights of generous pours.
Forrest Estate winery in Renwick. Photo / supplied
At this point, I'm already thankful I have a sober driver. But for groups where everyone wants in on the grape action, there is a range of shuttle tour options, as well as cycle tracks and two-wheeled tours for anyone keen to burn a few cals between vineyards.
Over the course of the indulgent weekend, Allan Scott and Nautilus Estate are also firm favourites, and natural wine fans should check out the spritzy and delicious Offshoot range from renowned hotspot Hunter's Wines.
Swiss winemaker Hans Herzog specialises in European-style wines and unusual grape varieties. Photo / MarlboroughNZ
Picking a wine winner is no easy feat around here, but for me, Hans Herzog Estate is the highlight. Proving that Marlborough can be far more than sav, here you'll find exotic varieties like saperavi, zweigelt and St. Laurent, carefully crafted by Swiss winemaker Hans as a nod to his background in old world drops. With warm hospitality from Therese Herzog at front of house and a super stylish cellar door, it's one for the wish list when the estate reopens from September 5.
Just Cruisin'
You really can't visit Marlborough without heading out to the Sounds, and after all the vineyard-hopping, it's good to swap the wine for the water. Affable Joe Kelly, from Wine Country Shuttles, was the chauffeur for the quick trip to Picton, where a smart-looking launch called Katabatic was waiting at the wharf for the morning's jaunt.
Building the vessel was a labour of love for local chef and skipper Grant Orchard, and with a career as a chef on superyachts under his belt, (plus plenty of good yarns about how reality TV series "Below Deck" compares to real life),Orchard's hit pause on the overseas boating scene to run Katabatic Charters from his beloved home turf of Picton.
The lookout at Kaipupu Wildlife Sanctuary is easy to reach, and offers stunning views across the Marlborough Sounds. Photo / supplied
Today, we detour to walk to the lookout at leafy Kaipupu Wildlife Sanctuary, before setting off towards the famed coves and islands. It's millpond-flat despite the patchy weather, with the trademark inlets casting shadows as moss green fingers of dense bush stretch into the sea. It's far from my first visit to this corner of the country, but every time is a fresh reminder of just how stunning it is. There's no sign of the resident dolphins on this occasion but a pair of fat cod appreciate the bread we scatter over the side.
Skipper and chef Grant Orchard prepares lunch onboard the Katabatic. Photo / supplied
The best bit is when the skipper gets to work on the barbecue, sizzling finely sliced fresh pāuā on the hot plate before stuffing it into bao buns with coriander and sauces. It's melt-in-the-mouth delicious, and he smiles knowingly when I declare it a million times better than any rubbery fish 'n 'chip shop paua fritters. Back in port, Orchard says he reckons Picton is poised to become another Queenstown-like magnet for tourists. As the sun glints off the water and the angular shapes of the Sounds turn an atmospheric silver, there's a feeling he might be right.
Best bites in Blenheim
In these parts, you're spoilt for choice when it comes to places to relax and refuel. Wairau River Restaurant is a local favourite, with Marlborough mussel chowder, crispy duck leg, and the WR burger in chicken or tofu among the stars of the menu. At upmarket but relaxed Wither Hills Restaurant, we lunched on Cloudy Bay clams, wild venison carpaccio and pan-fried butterfish, washed down with the winery's Rarangi Riesling and Late Harvest Sav.
Steaming plates of Cloudy Bay clams at Wither Hills winery restaurant. Photo / supplied
For a special dinner, Blenheim's award-winning Scotch Wine Bar hits the spot. Expect a compact and confident menu, local seasonal ingredients and an extensive wine list, in the sort of paired-back luxe surrounds that feel fancy but not pretentious. Newly opened Franks Oyster Bar is another Blenheim hot spot, with local seafood delights, succulent sides and salads, and of course, an abundance of Marlborough oysters.
Wine might have helped put Marlborough on the map, but it's not all about the grape juice. Craft beer fans should make a beeline for Boom Town, where the cosy tap room and outdoor beer garden is ideal for kicking back, and there's a selection of sophisticated in-house brews on offer. For a huge range of Kiwi and European beers, crowd-pleasing eats and tons of history and heart, head to Dodson Street Beer Garden.
If Kokako coffee, brunch or a takeaway bite is in order, Herb and Olive is the pick of the bunch. You'll need to get in quick to nab a seat on weekends, as this super-stylish cafe fills up fast.
Rest and recharge
For town centre convenience and all the comforts, stay at the Chateau Marlborough in Blenheim. The spacious suites are a plush spot to relax after a busy day's exploring, and the Quench Restaurant downstairs offers breakfast, dinner, and great coffee.
For future trips, the Marlborough Book Festival is an excellent annual winter event to keep on the radar. With an ever-growing range of Kiwi wordsmiths taking part, this year's speakers included Patricia Grace, Lloyd Jones and "After the Tampa" author Abbas Nazari. Check out marlboroughbookfest.co.nz for future dates and announcements.
For more Marlborough travel ideas, see Marlboroughnz.com
