For serenity with a side of luxury, chopper in to Te Whare Ruruhau cabin, near Taupo. Photo / supplied
For serenity with a side of luxury, chopper in to Te Whare Ruruhau cabin, near Taupo. Photo / supplied
Michael Lamb susses out the best-secluded spots to really get away from it all
When you can’t face another conversation about climate change or Covid, it’s a sure sign you’re ready for a complete getaway. We’re talking the back blocks: enveloping forest, secluded coast or distant mountain top.
Sure, the “cabin in the woods” is a nailed-on horror trope, where the quaint retreat quickly turns into a gruesome crime scene. But if we restrict the murdering to the pages of the latest Stephen King or Anne Cleves (and you will be needing a book for company at these destinations), let’s discover some of the best places in Aotearoa for a super remote stay . . . where the only rustling in the bush is native bird life, and you get to come home in one piece.
10 secluded cabins to get away from it all (in a non-creepy way)
Heading online to organise going offline is the way of the world these days, and the gang at Unyoked have a concept that does it justice: premium yet simple cabins scattered around the backcountry. Their slogan? “Microsoft Office, you’re not welcome here”. The sustainably-built cabins are solar powered (big tick), with composting loos (ah yep, okay, tick I think) and safely tucked away on private land. Phone reception varies from none to some and certainly isn’t guaranteed. Their Whetu cabin out at Raglan is a pretty good example of what Unyoked are doing: a point-perfect bolthole that you have to walk almost a kilometre to access. But, once you’re, there it’s a dreambomb of west coast views and old-school do-nothingness. If just lying about reading a book isn’t active enough, you can build a blaze in the firepit, wander down to the surf break or pull out the handily provided yoga mat.
This one is a little different: a Taranaki council-owned treehouse retreat deep in the Pukeiti rainforest. It’ll take you an hour to hike in along the Saxton Track, but the reward is time spent in beautiful, regenerating rainforest, with stands of the original virgin bush and a smattering of ancient rimu.
The place is a bargain too at just $150 a night - and it sleeps 12 so you can take the whole whānau along. As you’d expect, the cabin is a basic DoC-hut type of set-up, so you’ll need sleeping bags and extra cooking gear. There’s a log burner fireplace to cook on and provide warmth but let’s face it, you’re not here for the creature comforts, you’re here for the spectacular views of the Tasman Sea and the Pouākai and the Kaitake mountain ranges. And to let the kids go feral in the bush. It only opened in 2021 and is already a roaring success so if you want to book a stay, move fast.
Deep in the Pukeiti rainforest, Piwakawaka Hut sleeps 12 for just $150 per night. Photo / supplied
3. Whakatau Rainforest Retreat - Te Urewera
With its hiking huts disappearing en masse, the stories these days are more about where you can’t stay in Te Urewera. But don’t panic, Hinewai McManus at Te Urewera Treks has you covered.
She runs a couple of whare - upscale glampers - on private land in the bush, with a focus on holistic escapes and a rejuvenating re-connection with the land for manuhiri (guests). The whare have roll-up canvas walls so you can really get immersed in nature, and the stargazing on a clear night is literally out of this world.
There are lots of short walks from the whare or you can organise a trek with Hinewai’s Tuhoe guides into the forest or up to Lake Waikaremoana while you’re there.
Immerse yourself in nature at the Whakatau Rainforest Whare. Photo / supplied
4. Te Whare Ruruhau - near Taupō
Okay, sell the crypto, smash open the piggy bank, this one will set you back an arm and leg but your soul will thank you. Forget driving or even hiking, it’s whirlybird access only here, with a 15-minute flight from Taupō whisking you to your 7000ha chunk of central plateau paradise.
This ultra-secluded cabin is built on the ancestral Māori Owhaoko block and operated on behalf of Ngāti Kurapoto, a subtribe of Ngāti Tuwharetoa. You’re 1454m up in the high hills surrounded by mountain beech forest, alpine tussock and mānuka (they also produce their own honey). As their promo says: `’no roads, no people, no cell coverage, no stress. Just wild perfection”.
The digs are commensurate with the price - think floor-to-ceiling windows to take in the views, 1200-thread count sheets and the obligatory outdoor bath. And if you’re imagining it’s mainly the Peter Thiels of this world who patronise the place, think again, the managers say most of their visitors are Kiwis.
Rates: Start at $2680 for two nights for up to three people, self-catering, including helicopter transfers. Catered and four-person options are available. Closed April. owhaoko.com
5. The Black Bivvy - near Taumarunui
They call it a bivvy but this place is pretty swish - more wine and cheese than crackers and trail mix - which shows going off-grid doesn’t always mean roughing it.
The luxe touches extend to two beautifully appointed queen-size bedrooms, large outdoor tin bathtub on the deck, a cook’s kitchen and huge windows that slide open to max your indoors-to-the-great-outdoors flow.
The accomm sleeps four but nature is your real company out here: the bivvy is tucked into 70ha of mature native bush, bristling with tūī, kereru and fantails. Deer will probably wander past plus there’s plenty of bush to explore, stoney-bottomed streams to idle by and a picturesque waterfall to discover - or if you need a shot of adrenalin, there’s even a 60m flying fox.
Rates: $320 per night for two people. Additional people $75 per adult, $50 per child per night. canopycamping.co.nz/black-bivvy
With two queen-sized bedrooms and a large outdoor tub, you can expect a very comfortable stay at the Black Bivvy. Photo / supplied
6. Black Billy Hut - Washpen Falls, Canterbury
If you’re hankering for some time in big-sky country, the Black Billy Hut sets a high bar for the off-grid lifestyle. The location at Windwhistle usefully triangulates between Lake Tekapo, Christchurch and the West Coast, making it a good port of call on any mainland tour.
This is the rustic elevated to the inspired, enveloping you in cleverly blended native timber interiors. All the spaces open out to the large front deck so you can hear the bellbirds, wood pigeons and tomtits singing, plus there’s a wood-fired cedar hot tub and a luxurious bathroom. Go in winter to experience a snowy wonderland or, in the warmer months, use it as a base to do the nearby Washpen Falls Track.
Take your digital detox to the whale-watching coast, with this luxury Kaikōura pod. This is one of a selection of PurePods around the country, with their newest one just opened on Rakiura/Stewart Island. It’s a glass eco-cabin concept, where privacy is your passport to being open to the world and transparency is the theme (even the chairs are clear Perspex).
This particular pod is accessed through a mature kānuka forest, a walk of just under a kilometre as you detach from civilisation. Once in the pod, thoughtful touches include a star map and telescope to aid in your astral travels. There are marked tracks to wander and magnificent views to gaze upon - the Kaikōura mountain range, including Mt Manakau and Mount Fyffe, dominate the snow-covered scenery.
Like most of these cabins, this is self-catering, but there’s the option to add dinner and breakfast meal kits, pre-prepared kai that just needs serving or warming on the barbecue. Check-out is a generous noon.
Welcome to goldrush country. Fossickers Hut is perched above the Wakamarina River near the old mining town of Canvastown, about halfway between Nelson and Picton.
Gold was first found here in 1864 and in the blink of an eye, about 6000 dreamers had turned up, pitched their canvas tents and started prospecting. It was all but over in a year once the easy pickings were had. The spirit lingers on at the pioneer-themed Fossickers, with large photos from the mining days on the wall in the compost loo, and olden-days touches like a wetback coal range and coal scuttle.
And if you fancy striking it rich - and let’s face it, who doesn’t - there are gold pans and spades provided so you can try your luck down at the river.
Just you, the Milky Way and the tranquillity of the Mackenzie Country: this stylish cabin is like a lodge in miniature, complete with chandeliers made of deer antlers and cowskin chairs and rugs.
Set in 4ha, with sheep as your neighbours and scampering rabbits as your entertainment, you’re free to roam the property or, for an energetic outing, hike to the Ben Ōhau summit and take in even more stunning views. Aoraki Mount Cook National Park is just 40 mins away, plus there are the glacial lakes of Pūkaki and Ōhau nearby.
The back-country vibe is powered by log burner cosiness, the kitchen generously kitted out with everything you’ll need and the hot water is fast and reliable if you need to warm up quickly.
Twizel's High Country cabin brings the classic forest lodge vibe, with deer antlers and cowhide rugs. Photo / supplied
10. Longspur Eco Cottage - Wairarapa
Dip into Martinborough’s wine and gastro scene before beating a retreat to your own rustic eco cottage out near the wild Wairarapa coast. No internet, no emails, just the sound of the woodburner and your cares drifting away.
There are plenty of bush trails in the 400ha of re-generating native bushland, or hike the 5km loop up to Rocky Knob at 616m above sea level for incredible views of the Tararua Forest Park and out over the south Wairarapa plains. Head down to the coast at Tora for a fish off the rocks or a walk along this moody sea coast.
