Take a road trip on State Highway 35. Photo / Supplied
Take a road trip on State Highway 35. Photo / Supplied
Guy Needham pulls on his driving gloves and embarks on a State Highway 35 road trip.
I first saw it through a 1973 Holden Belmont station wagon’s smoke-stained window.
Staring back at 11-year-old me was a blue and yellow sign: “Pig Dog Training School Bookbinder”. Located just outside of Tōrere, Joshua Kauta’s iconic landmark still stands, symbolising the next 300km. Known yet mysterious, friendly yet wary, this is the East Coast.
Joshua Kauta’s iconic landmark still stands.
Photo / Guy Needham
State Highway 35 is its vein, an artery of townships that have risen and fallen with the tide of resources, people and politics.
And yet this narrow, storm-beaten road attracts more passion than perhaps any other. The “35″ logos proudly sit across low-hanging trackies, XXL tees and well-worn bucket hats, and 35, the TikTok sensation by the 24-rangatahi choir Ka Hao and Rob Ruha has over 6 million views on YouTube.
Driving the road you can see why. Rata drapes honour guards of canopy across the tarmac while almighty pōnga stand sentinel over isolated coves.
Beehives and bulls fall into the rear-vision mirror, as a new ‘Haere Mai’ approaches. Each township has its own unique ways.
Te Kaha is home to the strikingly carved wharenui Tūkākī, next to a memorial dedicated to the Māori Battalion’s C Company. Just before it is the Te Kaha Beach Resort, complete with swimming pool, sea views, restaurant and event facilities. The Coast, authentic yet polished.
As the road curves, a bright star appears on the isthmus. Raukokore’s church, its external beams glistening, is as picturesque as it is isolated. The Pacific laps metres away as a stallion nonchalantly looks up. A single ute’s exhaust splutters and then the quiet returns once again.
Raukokore’s church is as picturesque as it is isolated. Photo / Guy Needham
Further on the gears shift down, as does the pace.
Fans of Taika Waititi pay homage to Boy’s Michael Jackson moves in front of the Waihau Bay Post Office, as kuia roll their eyes and chuckle.
Fishermen patiently wait their turn to use the popular boat ramp as the sea begins to settle. After Hicks Bay, the first straight heads towards Te Araroa and a carpet of needles under Te Waha o Rerekohu, the largest pōhutukawa in New Zealand. I played on it as a kid; there’s now a sign politely asking you not to.
The most easterly point of SH35 is at Tikitiki. Atop its hill sits the historic St Mary’s, widely considered to be the most beautiful Māori church in New Zealand.
Sunlight strikes the stained glass window depicting two soldiers kneeling at the feet of Christ, below them sit glowing pews. Kōwhaiwhai and tukutuku panels bathe in the light, embracing the intricately carved pulpit. The church, which was built as a memorial to Ngāti Porou who sacrificed their lives in World War I, has been lovingly restored over the past two decades.
St Mary's is widely considered to be the most beautiful Māori church in New Zealand. Photo / Guy Needham
Under the watch of the maunga Hikurangi, the first place to see the sun, lies Ruatoria.
Home of Pa Wars - officially the Ngāti Porou inter-marae challenge – every year over 20 marae come together for a day of competing fun. This year’s took place on January 3. As varied as the Coast’s landscape, the battles range from sprints to karaoke to euchre. A chorus of “chur bro” sings out as kids collapse over the finish line into the embrace of cheering whānau.
Pa Wars is a welcome respite from a tough few years on the Coast. Floods, road closures, and of course, Covid-19 restrictions all affected it.
Erosion is no stranger to SH35 either; the roads can be as uneven as the weather. Following another vehicle on the Coast forges an anonymous bond, a shared sense of navigating dips and swerving rocks, until they break away for their own journey as the road winds on.
The gastronomical pull of Tokomaru Bay is too strong to drive by.
Served fresh and creamy, Cafe 35′s famous paua pies fuel locals and tourists alike. Heads turn as trays breeze past, the waft of hot flaky pastry delivered with a knowing smile, making the wait worth it. The pies travel well, making their half-eaten way to nearby “secret” Anaura Bay. This stunning bay embodies “getting away from it all”, its long sandy beach bookended by the Department of Conservation and commercial camping grounds.
Cafe 35′s famous paua pie. Photo / Guy Needham
The biggest township on the East Coast happens to have the longest wharf in New Zealand.
Buffeted by easterly swells, the Tolaga Bay wharf can be a stirring sight; a reminder of the respect Tangaroa commands.
Light-coloured driftwood touched by fingers of ocean tentatively rests as the tide comes in one more time. A determined father with a stroller heads towards the end of the pier, hair askew and hands clasped tightly. Waiting for him when he gets back are Broad Bills’ cheesy wheezies; curly fries, a just reward for such a long walk.
Tolaga Bay boasts the longest wharf in New Zealand. Photo / Guy Needham
Beyond Tolaga Bay the road straightens as it makes its way to Gisborne.
Behind it is a unique unspoiled land, threaded with a living, breathing highway. The Coast, like State Highway 35 itself, is still a little rough around the edges, but nothing a 1973 Holden Belmont station wagon can’t handle.
DETAILS
Gisborne and State Highway 35
Getting there
Self-drive from Ōpōtiki to Gisborne or vice-versa, 4WD is best.
Accommodation
Both Te Kaha Beach Resort and Hicks Bay Motor Lodge are popular options.
