Palmerston North has one of New Zealand's highest rates of bike commuting and there's plenty of riding for visitors too. Video / Sarah Bennett
Elevator pitch
Palmerston North seems pretty big into cycling. Already claiming one of New Zealand's highest rates of bike commuting, it says it's committed to cycling as part of a "more efficient and integrated transport network, improving health, economic and social outcomes and city liveability".
Official sources say there's plenty of riding for visitors, too. "From off-road adventures to family-friendly tracks," says the visitor guide, "there's something for all who venture our way, with the added bonus of a beautiful backdrop."
Long-time local cyclist and former Bike Manawatū chairman John van Lienen gives this a boost. "The Manawatū is a fantastic place to ride," he says. "The region's flat countryside and good hills have long been a great training ground for road cyclists, and mountain biking is growing as more single track is developed.
"This has all been well supported by local authorities region-wide and in Palmerston North where cycleways encourage safer and more enjoyable cycling for everyone," says John.
Palmy is pancake-flat, low-rise and laid out in a spacious grid. Along its eastern edge, the Manawatū River separates the city from Massey University and Linton Military Camp backed by the Ruahine Ranges not far away.
The Manawatū River separates Palmerston North from Massey University and Linton Military Camp backed by the Ruahine Ranges not far away. Photo / Manawatū NZ
Country roads to the north lead deeper into rural surrounds. A particularly scenic route is also designated an official Heartland Ride, the Manawatū Cycleway which goes all the way to Mangaweka, passing various visitor attractions.
Getting your bearings
An impressive new Walking and Cycling Guide details all notable leisure rides. It's free from the iSite and other outlets, and via the Manawatū website (manawatunz.co.nz), which provides more useful info.
Urban cycleways and connector routes are mapped on the City Council website (pncc.govt.nz) by searching "cycle routes".
We took the best part of a day to dawdle along the 10km-long Manawatū River Pathway, which has a peaceful, edge-of-town feel. Passing through pretty parklands dotted with a number of hang-out spots and recreational amenities, it's incredibly popular with locals who were open to a friendly chat.
The 10km Manawatū River Pathway has a peaceful, edge-of-town feel. Photo / Manawatū NZ
He Ara Kotahi pedestrian and cycling bridge is a wonderful riverside meeting point. Translating as "the pathway that brings people together", its design was inspired by the karaka trees that once thrived here. Striking enough in the daytime, the bridge is even more glorious when illuminated at night.
Alongside is Victoria Esplanade, Palmy's big, beautiful park, where we watched the light fade amid empty, sprawling gardens. Returning on Saturday, the park was full of life. Miniature trains tootled along the railway, kids romped in the playground, and young bikers pedalled around the cute Junior Road Safety Park.
The miniature railway at Victoria Esplanade in Palmerston North. Photo / Lee Slater
Further afield
Our visit to Arapuke Mountain Bike Park was long overdue. In the Ruahine foothills, half an hour's drive from Palmerston North, it offers 30km of Grade 2–6 tracks, with Kahuts Shuttles running uplifts most weekends and other popular times.
Kahuts Shuttles run uplifts from Palmerston North to Arapuke Mountain Bike Park most weekends and other popular times. Photo / Manawatū NZ
We lingered as much as possible on our six downhill runs. We loved About Time, a hilltop loop offering splendid, faraway views. Mr Twister was a roller-coaster of big, bermed turns so good we rode it three times, alternating with Kārearea and Jumping Jack, slightly more technical trails. All were within the limits of this Grade-3 gal, but there are easier options and open sight lines to dismount and walk.
As well as map-boards at key locations, there's a downloadable Arapuke Trails map (arapuketrails.co.nz), and Trailforks of course.
Getting high
We visited a whisker too early to climb the new Turitea Pā lookout platform. Officially opened for Matariki, it stands on a former Rangitāne pā site with expansive views of the river and city.
The lookout is 2km downriver from He Ara Kotahi bridge via the trail of the same name, a pleasant, 7km cross-country ride through to Linton. Just shy of the lookout, the Urban Eels platform offers the chance to see precious tuna.
He Ara Kotahi Bridge in Palmerston North is a pedestrian and cycling bridge, and a wonderful riverside meeting point. Photo / Lee Slater
Directly across the river is Ahimate Reserve, which sports six handsome pou. It's accessed via the Manawatū River Pathway which joins the Mangaone Stream Pathway, another 11km of peaceful trail through town.
Chowing down
The locals must have hollow legs to support all the eateries in the city.
We went to two distinctly different pubs and loved them both. Brew Union is a modern brewbar with good food. A DJ livened the vibe on Friday night. For Saturday's rugby, we settled into the Celtic, a small, old-fashioned tavern with easy-going locals and generous measures of Baileys.
A long lunch was enjoyed at Provenance, a stylish affair firmly focused on locally sourced ingredients. Scrumptious shared plates and a glass of wine pepped up our biking legs.
Sunday brunch was at Jacko Cafe. A colourful joint with a sing-a-long soundtrack, it deserves its strong local following if the eggs bene and coffee are anything to go by. Just around the corner, Alexandre Patisserie was tres magnifique for stashing a baguette for our mountain biking mission.
Sweet treats at Palmerston North's Alexandre Patisserie. Photo / Sarah Bennett
Don't miss
Palmy's artistic side. The voluminous town square is an obvious place to begin a grid-search of galleries, sculptures and murals. Highlights include Square Edge art space and Te Manawa museum, along with the small but impressive selection of colourful street art you can find using the freshly minted Public Art trail map.
Palmerston North has plenty of street art, if you know where to look. Photo / Lee Slater
Hazards and cautions
Be wary of believing Palmy's bad press. It was famously dissed by British comedian John Cleese in a pretty dodgy insult, upon which folks have been happy to double-down because of schadenfreude. The locals are having the last laugh by the looks of it.
Bike Town rating
Visiting on a pretty grey, mid-winter weekend, we reckon we put Palmy to the test. It passed. As well as finding good riding in town and country, we ticked off inspiring art, lovely parks, great food, and fun at the pub. We also met some really friendly, happy people – people that epitomised the city catch-phrase "Palmy Proud" and made us want to visit again sometime soon.
