Julia gives the all clear and we drop over the side, following the white mooring line down to the comms tower on top of the bridge. At first, we see nothing. Then vague lines become real as the bridge takes shape. And the ship looms out of the blue, spectral in fine russet and olive algae.
We pulled off the Russell road on Friday night and were greeted by Northland Dive owners Julia and Shane. Soon we were sitting at the long table with a tea and beer, meeting divers and guides. The kitchen is familial, the company convivial and excited, for this weekend we will dive New Zealand's newest major wreck, HMNZS Canterbury, scuttled 20km from here at Deep Water Cove in 2007.
Photos and bovine accessories alert me to the fact our dining room was once a cow shed, and we prise the story out of our hosts. The couple bought a block with an old milking shed 10 years ago as a place to store their boat and pursue their passion for diving. On their first dive, Shane promised he would one day sink a boat here. Friends and their friends began to arrive to dive and share the cow shed. With many improvements and much investment the couple had a business.
Meanwhile, the Scots-built Canterbury was nearing the end of her active career. Launched in 1970, she sailed to the Persian Gulf, Mururoa atoll and East Timor. As the ageing ship was decommissioned in 2005, a tender process was begun. With other dive businesses and enthusiasts the documentation was completed rapidly. They approached Ngati Kuta and Patukeha about sinking the ship in the waters of Maunganui Bay.