The fjord-indented coastline delights Gillian Orr during the long daylight hours.
In the far north of Norway, in the small fishing town of Svolvaer, the smell of the ocean hung in the air. More specifically, it was the smell of the ocean's inhabitants that was really getting up my nose. On this remote Lofoten island, the coastline is dotted with wooden racks, or hjell, on which cod is hung out to dry to make stockfish, one of the world's oldest food preservation methods. The pungent, almost offensive scent lingered in the air.
I'd arrived here from Bodo, a rather soulless industrial fishing town on the mainland that's a three-hour boat ride south across the Vestfjord. The Torghatten Nord ferry is primarily used by locals, but such are the incredible scenes of the hundreds of uninhabited islands on offer, the trip is an equally deserving part of the tourist trail.
I was just a few hundred kilometres north of the Arctic Circle. The summer days are long around here; in July Svolvaer never really gets dark. It can leave you with a muddled sense of time, the bright blue skies not corresponding with the hands on the clock. And it seemed I wasn't the only one confused. Following a stockfish dinner at Bojer restaurant (don't let that pong put you off; its strange texture and unapologetic saltiness are rather wonderful), my travel companion and I walked across the harbour to Svolvaer's only bar. It was 1am and locals, old and young, were chatting and drinking with no sense that it might be time to think about turning in.
Without night's cloak to trick us into retiring to bed, we accepted an invitation from two students to ride out on their boat to chase the midnight sun. As the low-lying sun is often hidden behind mountains, the best way to glimpse it is out at sea. When I finally saw those 2am rays it was a spectacular sight: the powerful glare had me reaching for my sunglasses. However, my marvelling was cut short when I tripped over the boat's railing and fell into the water, becoming quickly acquainted with the North Sea (which is very cold). Perhaps the combination of Aquavit and lack of sleep wasn't such a good one after all.