Hardy men with pick-axes cut through tough terrain a century ago so a snug Grant Bradley could relish views that can only be described as spectacular.
The famous train trip from Oslo to Bergen started it all: Norway's obsession with "Slow TV"*.
Eight years ago the entire seven-hour journey from the driver's view was broadcast on state television and more than a quarter of Norway's 5.1 million people tuned in. This year a near 135-hour cruise north along Norway's coast and through the fjords was broadcast live and more than half the population watched.
I can only imagine the dramatic scenery captured on the cruise but I did experience the train trip. It was spectacular.
Throughout the journey you feel like you're looking at one postcard after another through the big windows on the train, which goes up over the highest rail mountain pass in northern Europe and down into the fjords at Bergen, the beautifully set historic city.
You glide along quickly in a near-silent cocoon powered by Norway's ample supplies of hydro-electric power. On an early autumn day, when colour was starting to show on the leaves, the train was only about half full for most of the 471km journey, so was especially comfortable.
You're able to move freely about the train for a view out the back, a meal and a drink in the rather nice dining car (where the prices aren't outrageous) or, if you have young children, drop them in the enclosed and amply padded play area in the family car, where they can spend hours amusing themselves.
As one of the world's great rail journeys it's popular with foreign tourists but also for friendly locals (Norwegians are taught English from primary school and most love talking to visitors about their country) heading to Bergen for the weekend or getting off at one of the 10 stops along the way. Many head for the alpine regions for hiking and mountain biking during summer and during winter, when there can be deep snow for much of the length of the line, there are alpine resorts along the way for skiing and ice skating.
The famous Oslo to Bergen railway travels from Norway's capital to its second-biggest city. Photo / NSB
The line was carved through some of the most challenging terrain in Europe more than a century ago, much of the work done by men with pick-axes and barrows. When it was opened by King Haakon in 1909, he described it as "our generation's masterpiece".
There are between four and six departures a day from Oslo, nicknamed Tigerstaden after a reference to a tiger in a "dangerous city" in a famous Norwegian poem from 1870.
The nickname is celebrated by the much-photographed tiger statue outside the central station, a large, busy place (for laid-back Oslo) but it is user-friendly and NSB rail staff are happy to help with inquiries.
First you climb through rolling farmland to more than 1200m at Finse where even at the end of summer there's still snow on large glaciers and the area's tarns and lakes are right beside the track. The ice rink at Finse suffered damage during World War II when British planes bombed German occupation forces using the tow to test aeroplane engines in arctic conditions.
Dropping down towards the coast you pass gorgeous alpine cabins alongside roaring mountain streams until you run alongside a fjord with a mirror finish that runs into Bergen, set among seven mountains.
Night falls on Bergen, Norway. Photo / Grant Bradley
The city is Norway's second biggest with a population of about 270,000 and although heavily geared to tourism for predominantly older people, it is lively, with a sizeable university, a fishing fleet and is a support port for the country's massive oil and gas industry. Stavanger further south is a much bigger base for the industry that lifted Norway to become one of the richest countries in the world, but the massive support vessels tied at Bergen are an indication of the scale of the industry and also how badly it has been hit by the downturn in oil prices. They were tied up instead out on the Norwegian shelf taking equipment to platforms and moving anchors about.
Bergen traces its roots back to 1070. It was Norway's first capital and the seat of royalty. In the 13th century became an important part of the Hanseatic League founded by a German medieval guild of merchants who opened offices and warehouses at Bryggen wharf in the port. The buildings that remain are from the 18th century and due to subsidence and a massive munitions explosion in the harbour during the war wouldn't stand up to having a plumb-bob and spirit level run over them.
The lopsided wooden structures make for a fascinating walk and in them you can shop and dine in style.
Cheaper eating can be found around the markets at the head of the harbour basin. Late-summer fruit was plentiful and if you cared for reindeer, moose and whale salami there was a three pack on offer for around $45.
Shops in Bergen, Norway. Photo / Grant Bradley
Eating out in Norway can be expensive, a basic fish, salad and fries at the harbourside is around $30, a reindeer hotdog $12 with a drink.
Your best bet if you're watching the Kroner is to go off the tourist route and find a kebab joint and there's plenty of these in the bigger centres. There you have a fairly substantial meal for around $16 (a Big Mac combo is just under $12).
Norway is also a good place to cut down on the grog. It is heavily taxed, meaning you're lucky to find a pint for less than $15 if eating or drinking out and a can of beer at the supermarket will typically cost $5 to $6.
With limited time, I went to the ideal spot to get my bearings, the top of the 320m Floyen mountain on the Floibanen Funicular, an electric rail system that drags 70 people at a time up the steep track in about seven minutes. It's Bergen's most popular attraction and a fantastic place to see the sun go down.
The next day I cruised the Osterfjorden, a beautiful 20km stretch of water past red and white cottages, fishing villages, narrow passages and sheer cliffs.
We pulled up to a waterfall where the crew filled a bucket of water that was dispensed to passengers. On a lovely day it was a great way to spend three hours.
We also passed under the elevated section of a 1.6km floating road traffic bridge. With a water depth of half a kilometre in the fjord it was impossible to sink piles into the sea floor so most of the Nordhordland Bridge floats on pontoons.
The Bergen waterfront. Photo / Grant Bradley
Bergen is a European city of culture, and has one of the world's oldest symphony orchestras. Plenty of museums celebrate its composers (including Edvard Grieg), the region's fishing and maritime history and less expected attractions including the Leprosy Museum and the Norwegian Knitting Industry Museum.
*A footnote on the Slow TV. It's not all like that in Norway. Heidi, my Oslo Airbnb host told me that although hours of watching rail or ship journeys was popular with older Norwegians, a much shorter, sly local take on Breaking Bad that played on the country's famous gold-plated welfare system was popular with younger citizens. The animated item went something like "I'm a chemistry teacher with terminal cancer and have a growing family, what can I do? Oh that's right I'm fully covered by Norway's public health system. The End."
TOP TIP Marketing co-ordinator for the Bergen Tourism Board, Linn Kyos Falkenberg, recommends buying the Bergen Card, which for 24 to 72 hours offers free entry to almost all the museums, free public transport and discounts on other attractions. For 24 hours it is less than $40 for adults and about $12 for children.
Where to stay: The Scandic Ornen is near new, very Scandanavian cool with a breakfast buffet that has a huge range of choice. Rooms start at around $220.
