We're too busy steering through the rapids, between rocks and around log-jams to worry about crocodiles, and on the long peaceful sections there are birds to watch - rainbow bee-eaters, azure kingfishers, white-bellied sea-eagles, flocks of pink and grey galahs - so it's not until I'm tucked up in my swag on the sandy riverbank that I remember there could be cold yellow eyes watching me from the water.
In the morning, we're all still there, and so are the crocs - but only little freshies warming up in the sun.
Mick's Gecko Canoeing river trips begin with a pick-up in Katherine.
Go spotting
Night falls as we settle into a flat-bottomed tin boat and chug off down the Katherine River. Noel tells us to shine our torches along the bank and we soon spot the giveaway ruby red dots of the freshies' eyes glowing in the dark. We reach a sandy beach and climb ashore for our barbecue, but before we begin to eat, Noel calls, "Come and meet Mouse!"
And right there is a fully grown freshie focused on a tin bucket containing fish.
"I don't know what I'd do if he tried something," says Noel. "All I've got is this spindly stick."
Luckily, Mouse behaves himself.
The Crocodile Night Adventure, in Katherine, runs from May to September.
Go cruising
At Adelaide River, 70km from Darwin, the salties come crowding when they hear the boat's engines. A huge fishing rod is dangled, a hunk of meat at the end of the line.
Dunk, dunk on the muddy water then it's snatched into the air as a crocodile launches itself out of the river, mouth agape, the sheer bulk of the body as awe-inspiring as its ability to propel itself so high. Again and again the bait is dangled, tantalising the croc until it drives itself up into the air again, so far that its hind legs are visible. Then it grabs the meat, the water splashing as it chomps away, before disappearing beneath the surface again.
Two companies run several cruises daily, with pick-ups in Darwin: jumpingcrocodilecruises.com.au and jumpingcrocodile.com.au.
Go swimming
Not in the river, unless you want to be a headline yourself, but in central Darwin at Crocosaurus Cove, where adrenalin nuts can get into the Cage of Death and be lowered into a big saltie's enclosure. With solid walls of 4cm thick acrylic and heavy mesh top and bottom, the cage is safe, although the bite marks on its surface might suggest otherwise.
If the crocs are feeling less lively, the punters, in masks and snorkels, can splash and shout to attract their attention, although simply being nose to nose with even a sleepy 5.5m crocodile called Choppa is enough to satisfy most thrill-seekers. Those who feel there's more safety in numbers can swim in the pool adjoining the croc enclosure.
Crocosaurus Cove is open daily.
