Northern Territory: Eat or be eaten in the billabong

You can tell how long a croc has lived in a billabong from its 'tan'. Photo / Thinkstock

Kate Roff takes her place in the food chain in the Mary River region's wetlands.

"It looks quiet," says our guide Russell Kelaart as we glide along the still waters, "but this is one of the world's most diverse wildlife systems."

Russell, or "Rusty" as he is introduced to us, is right - it does look rather tranquil as we slowly meander along the billabong, passing picturesque lily pads and drooping Pandanas trees. This is the nearest waterway to the luxury Wildman Wilderness Lodge, a remote residence in the Northern Territory, surrounded by lush sprawling wetlands - very peaceful, indeed.

Until someone spots a crocodile lurking in the murky water nearby.

"That's a local resident," Russell identifies.

Apparently you can tell by the croc's tan. A few of the reptiles permanently call the billabong home, and the tannins in the water stain their leather hides.

This billabong becomes part of a larger flooded plain during the wet season, but right now in the driest time of the year it is cut off, and remains a fresh-water playground for local wildlife.

The croc sinks eerily underwater while we continue to float along, on the lookout for other predators.

It doesn't take long before we spot a snake-neck darter. It's a majestic bird which can coil its long neck and spring its sharp beak at fish while it dives underwater, spearing its meal. It's obviously hunting breakfast because perched on a nearby branch is a kite, waiting to snatch the aforementioned fish from the darter.

Kites are perfectly capable of hunting their own food, but with darters around they prefer to scavenge, and are able to eat mid-flight during quick escapes.

A bird-spotting haven, the billabong reveals colourful rainbow bee-eaters, azure kingfishers (relatives of the kookaburra), and red-headed Jesus birds (jacanas, named for their ability to walk on water).

All of them are hunting: for fish, flies, mosquitoes - or each other.

Halfway along the journey we sight a sea eagle, Australia's second largest predatory bird, in the tree tops. It turns to watch our small vessel float past, biding its time before diving for food.

Even the crocs here have to be on guard. We come across a nest of baby crocodiles, protected by the mother, and Russell explains that although croc eggs are a favourite of wild dogs and goannas, young crocodiles can also be gulped down by barramundi.

The elusive barramundi, something this region is known for, is in turn prey for the sea eagles.

Just when I am thanking my lucky stars for being at the top of the food chain I look down to find a swarm of mosquitoes making a meal of my leg.

There's no avoiding it here - we are all on the menu.

CHECKLIST

Getting there: Qantas has daily flights to Darwin via Sydney or Brisbane. Hire a car from Darwin for the scenic drive out to the Mary River region.

Where to stay: Wildman Wilderness Lodge is a small-scale, high quality safari lodge situated in the Mary River National Park, half way between Darwin and Kakadu National Park.

The writer travelled with the assistance of Wildman Wilderness Lodge.