The festival runs over five nights in mid-May, at a historical venue called Rawson Hall in Burnt Pine (this year's festival will be held from May 18-22). Each country has its own showcase night and the festival ends with a raucous hoe-down on the Friday.
Every night's show was packed out and, although the music was a little sincere for my taste, I respected that I was not exactly the target audience. Love interests were a definite theme, as well as tearjerkers about dead relatives, and wistful nostalgia for the golden age of country from those too young to remember it.
"This is a song about a girl," announced one young guy. Aren't they all?
The best part of the festival were the after parties - after parties are always better than the main event. As each formal night ended, the older crowd tapered off and Up Country, a small venue off to the side of Rawson Hall opened.
The house band played the classics and anyone could get on stage for a jam. As the cover charge was dropped, a whole range of interesting locals turned up - full of gossip about the small island and its inhabitants.
It was raw, foot-stomping fun, with an authentic country atmosphere. I've now heard a lifetime's worth of All My Exes Live in Texas.
During the day, it was common to see New Zealand country music legend Dennis Marsh hanging out with his crew on a street corner, playing music and selling CDs. He's been visiting Norfolk Island for more than 20 years, for the festival and for the fishing tours he organises.
Dennis is well-loved on Norfolk Island and after meeting him, I could definitely see why - he's a genuinely nice guy and we were soon planning a round of mini-golf that was swiftly postponed by a boatload of fishing customers.
Competition night was a festival highlight. Seven artists competed, doing three songs each. Many were young and fresh-faced, performing to a grey-haired crowd. There were even a couple of X Factor contestants and a few Taylor Swifts.
The Australians dominated - winning 12 times to New Zealand's seven. After sitting through the Encouragement Award, Perpetual Trophy and other colourfully named runner-ups, the grand prizewinner was announced. To around 40 per cent of the hall's delight, it was a Kiwi - Cheryl Anderson, from Gore, the previous winner of Gore's Gold Guitar top prize.
I caught up with Cheryl for a chat at the Blue Bull cafe which, appropriately, has a real bull living out the back. She filled me in on the complicated processes of country music competitions and what it takes to qualify for them. This was her first time on Norfolk Island.
"Norfolk Island was this mystical place far off in the ocean, where people went, but they never won," she reflected. Closing the gap between Australia and New Zealand to a healthy 12-8, she definitely earned the bragging rights.
After one last crazy night with the kids at Up Country, I flew back with all the cowboys and cowgirls, looking a bit more worn out - but in the best way. Sometimes we all need a good dose of sincerity.
CHECKLIST
Getting there: Air New Zealand has a weekly direct service between Auckland and Norfolk Island.
Details: This year's Norfolk Island Country Music Festival runs from May 18-22.
Further information: See norfolkisland.com.au.
The writer travelled courtesy of Norfolk Island Tourism, Air New Zealand, South Pacific Resort Hotel and Oceanbreeze Cottages.
