No 9: A promise to return to Heidelberg, Germany

We continue our series of the top 20 destinations of readers. By WINSOME MITCHELL


Heidelberg is a city lifted from a fairy tale, and even the chronic complainers were silenced when our tour group arrived late on a May afternoon.

The castle on the hilltop must have been enchanted, for it called with an irresistible siren's song while ghostly fingers, disguised as breeze, brushed our faces before linking hands to tug us along.

One in five residents is a student, and the old town which nestles beneath the castle is crammed with taverns and bookshops. Ghosts of students past hailed us from within the pubs. Come and join us, they called. Come sing and dance and experience old Heidelberg.

With so much to do in this beautiful city made special by Romberg's The Student Prince, where does one start? The booklover can run his hands over the leather covers of the old volumes and drink in the musty odour seeping from the yellowing pages. The more energetic can stroll along the Philosopenweg to admire the view and tread the footsteps of the ancient philosophers. Perhaps a visit to old university where the graphitised cell walls of the student prison once housed the raucously drunk?

Our two-hour stopover that day served only as an appetiser. As we departed, I looked back to where shops selling gold jewellery contrasted with a shabby organ-grinder wildly gesticulating at tourists for photographing his monkey without paying, and promised to return. Six years later the voice of old Heidelberg still haunts my dreams. Have you forgotten your promise?

Getting there

Two nights' accommodation in Heidelberg starts from $398 a person twin share. Return airfares Auckland to Frankfurt start from $1982 a person. Sales for this package end March 22. Travel between March 1 and March 31. Contact Flight Centre on 0800 24 35 44 to book. Conditions apply.

Getting around

A parking guidance system leads you to free parking spots. Signs point drivers to available parking spaces as you enter the city. There is also an excellent, fast and cheap public transport system.

Things to see and do

There is free entry to the Heidelberg Castle Gardens. In addition there are more than 10 museums and many splendid private galleries.

Take a walk along the Philosophers Path for expansive views of the Old Town and Heidelberg Castle. Subtropical plants thrive along the southerly slopes.

Consider buying the HeidelbergCard which offers discounted access to the city's world-famous attractions and hidden treasures. Plus enjoy discounted shopping in Heidelberg and many restaurants and bars. The card costs €12 (NZ$23) and can save holders up to €48 (NZ$92).

Heidelberg visitors bureau