Niue: Small but perfectly formed

Matavai Resort, on Niue. Photo / Paul Rush

Niue is a an intriguingly rough diamond, writes Paul Rush.

I've landed on the Rock of Polynesia, Niue, a massive outcrop of coral reef atop an undersea volcano that rises from the ocean's depths.

Driving along the western coastline I notice that rowdy roosters and nodding hens rule the roadside. Well-fed dogs lie about the yards in dreamy indolence. Feral cats stare menacingly at my approaching vehicle and then do lightning-fast leaps into thick forest.

By the time I reach the Avaiki Cave of the Kings and am snorkelling in colourful rock pools, I've concluded that Niue is a safe, clean haven for complete relaxation.

At Hikutavake Village I'm spoilt for choice. I walk to Matapa Chasm and Talava Arches, two of the island's top swimming and snorkelling sites, and admire the staggering variety of weird limestone formations.

Matapa Chasm. Photo / Paul Rush

The drive down the east coast passes through the lush Huvalu Forest Conservation Area. I walk through a bush track overhung by star-shaped ferns, and hemmed in by honeycomb coral outcrops to the dramatic Togo Chasm, the island's top scenic attraction. It's a lost oasis secreted at the bottom of a ravine.

My journey around the ring road ends on the balcony of the four-star Matavai Resort. It's the start of the July to September whale-watching season. My patience is rewarded when a telltale spout rises up and disperses as a wisp of spray, a curved back breaks the surface and slowly dips down, followed by giant flukes that seem to hover, spilling cascades of seawater before sliding gracefully into the depths.

Catching dinner. Photo / Paul Rush

Picturesque Avatele Bay is the place to be on a Sunday. I enjoy a long snorkel around the coast in 26C water replete with tropical fish and sleek white-tipped sharks that are more curious than carnivorous.

In the popular Washaway Cafe, Willie Sanitelli cooks while patrons act as amateur baristas, serving their friends a variety of drinks under an honesty system.

Entrepreneur Willie Sanitelli. Photo / Paul Rush

Over my week-long visit I discover what an intriguingly rough diamond Niue is. A large part of the enjoyment of a holiday here is exploring the hidden grottos, chasms and coves, discovering intimate swimming and snorkelling pools in beautiful settings.

Togo Chasm is a hidden oasis. Photo / Paul Rush

There's a gentler side to Niue, too. Socialising occurs so naturally and informally that you are almost unaware that it's happening. I continue to bump into folk I have met in the Crazy Uga Cafe, Avi's Restaurant, Jenna's or Talo's.

The gentle people of Niue are all one big family. I'm privileged to have been adopted for a time as one of their own.

CHECKLIST

Getting there: Air New Zealand runs a twice-weekly service from Auckland.

Getting around: Niue Rentals has hire cars from $45 a day. Scooters and mountain bikes can also be hired. Keith Vial of the Niue Yacht Club operates a regular guided tour with hotel pick-ups.

Paul Rush travelled to Niue courtesy of Tourism Niue and Air New Zealand.