Night manoeuvres in Shanghai

The prize includes dinner at the Cupola.

By night, Shanghai glitters like a miniature galaxy of stars, its twinkling skyscrapers reflected in the Huangpu River.

That's fortunate, because the air pollution hanging over this intriguing city is so bad that only rarely, late at night, is it possible to catch a glimpse of the real stars. The moon is an invisible dream.

We manage to spot three stars one night, while sipping chilled glasses of New Zealand wine on the roof terrace at Kathleen's 5, one of Shanghai's coolest restaurants, its walls graced with modern Chinese artworks.

It is so exciting that we're tempted to go nuts with a second bottle, but at $110 for a bottle of Villa Maria sauvignon blanc, it's safer to stick with the cocktails.

Food and drink are very, very important in Shanghai, and every city block is stuffed with eating-houses, noodle bars, ice-creameries and restaurants where the lazy susans groan with plenty.

Face (or prestige) is central to the rituals of eating, as it is in all aspects of Chinese society.

One night we arrive at the Red House Restaurant on Huaihai Rd, only to be informed by the stout maitresse d' that we will all be eating French onion soup, steak and salad.

This doesn't please the vegetarians in our group, but our hostess is determined not to give way, stonewalling every bid at negotiation by suddenly losing comprehension of English and pretending not to understand what we want.

Just when it seems this lady (all plucked eyebrows and red cupid's-bow mouth) is going to force-feed us beef and onions, we revolt.

As one, our group rises from the table and marches down the stairs, out the door and across the road to Quanjude, a justly famous Peking Duck restaurant.

This is more like it: the menu is vast and features delights such as "things that swim" and "leafy things" and the patrons are all Chinese, surely a good sign.

Our peking duck comes on a wheelie trolley pushed by a face-masked surgeon-attendant, who sharpens his knife and reduces the glistening red duck to slivers within a minute.

We devour the crispy skin first, wrapping it in floury little pancakes, garnished with spring onion and sweet, thick hoisin sauce - then polish off the flesh, moist and delicate.

The dishes keep coming; prawns, beef, vegetables, fruit - all for about $18 a head, including beer and wine.

The best views of Shanghai by night are at the restaurants on the Bund, the gracious strip of neo-classical buildings along the riverside. M on the Bund, a rooftop restaurant run by Australian-born Michelle Garnaut, who also runs Hong Kong's famous M on the Fringe, serves impeccable modern dishes - Australian beef, the most tender lamb and house specials like delicate smoked salmon and seared pate de foie gras, all presented with antique bone-handled cutlery.

But the most romantic spot in the city - and perhaps in all of China - must be the Cupola, an exquisite restaurant with just enough room for two.

The cupola is the pinnacle of Three on the Bund, a beautifully restored 1916 building with several restaurants, clubs and shops.

Dinner here means perching on a velvet sofa at a white-clothed table laden with Baccarat crystal glasses.

The view across the water to Pudong is stunning, and the food among Shanghai's best - at RMB1500 ($301) a person, plus drinks.

* Further information

Air New Zealand will begin thrice-weekly direct flights from Auckland to Shanghai from November 6 using its new fleet of Boeing 777s. Return fares will start at $1949 (plus airport charges).

Win a trip to Shanghai

To mark Air New Zealand starting direct flights between Auckland and Shanghai on November 6 the airline and Herald Travel are offering readers the chance to win a holiday for two in Shanghai.

The prize is worth around $6000 and includes:

* Return tickets for two, including all taxes and departure charges, flying Air NZ premium economy class Auckland-Shanghai.

* Three nights' accommodation in the Jin Jiang Tower hotel, 161 Changle Rd, Shanghai.

* Dinner and drinks for two at the Cupola at 3 on the Bund, Shanghai, or, if that is booked out, at the New Heights restaurant.

* Transfers both ways between the airport and the hotel in Shanghai.

* The prize cannot be taken until the start of direct Air NZ flights and must be used before May 1.

To be in to win put your name and address on the back of an envelope, give the name of Shanghai's famous waterfront avenue and post to:

Shanghai Holiday, Travel Section, NZ Herald, PO Box 3290, Auckland.

Entries must reach the Herald by noon on August 1 and the first correct entry drawn will win the prize.

The winner's name will be published in Travel on August 8.

* Claire Harvey travelled to Shanghai as a guest of Air New Zealand.