How to spend a weekend in Hurunui. Video / NZ Herald
Those clever Cantabrians have already cottoned on to the fact Hurunui is full of excellent wine, fantastic food, and amazing accommodation perfect for a long weekend. But for North Islanders, the region can still be somewhat of a mystery. If you’re a fan of easy escapes to wine regions like Hawke’s Bay, Central Otago and Marlborough, but want to give something different a go, here are four accommodation options you should check out, that all include a hot tub with a view.
Tawanui Farm Glamping, Cheviot
This remote off-grid getaway offers a taste of life on a farm without having to get your hands dirty. Tawanui is a working sheep, beef and deer farm that has been home to five generations of the Loughnan family - soon to be six with the arrival of son Tim’s first child.
Accommodation is in two geodesic domes set either side of a central camp kitchen and living space, with an outdoor wood-fired hot tub for when you’re ready to relax. The view is of rolling farmland, surrounded by kānuka and pine trees, looking down to the Hurunui River and out to the Kaikōura ranges. The domes feel very private - especially since you get exclusive use of the whole campsite, whether you’re booking as a group, a couple, or solo.
Activities include farm tours on the Loughnans’ six-seater ATV, likely accompanied by the family’s working dogs (who still enjoy a good pat and a belly rub), where you can explore the land, learn more about farming, and hand-feed the resident alpacas. Jet boat tours are also on offer, with the added bonus of being able to whizz right down to where the river meets the ocean.
The only element of roughing it is the fact you have to walk a few metres to get to the outhouse-style composting toilets - a bit of a trek in the middle of the night, but it gives you the opportunity to do a spot of stargazing under the light-pollution-free Cheviot skies.
tawanuifarm.co.nz
The central camp kitchen at Tawanui Farm Glamping. Photo / Supplied
For Travel - April 4
Ribbonwood Country House, Cheviot
This purpose-built bed and breakfast is high on a hill looking out to the Waiau River Valley and the Kaikōura ranges. Hosts Gary Mitchell and Robert Day will instantly make you feel at home, thanks to their extensive hospitality experience and warm personalities. Gary cooks gourmet yet hearty dinners, using produce lovingly tended from Robert’s garden.
As well as the outdoor spa pool, you can relax in the library or in the lounge with a glass of wine or in front of the Smart TV. The vibe is cosy, homely and relaxed - kick your shoes off at the door and let your socks sink into the plush carpets. You won’t want to leave.
Russell’s Cabins and Kumiko’s Guest House, Waipara
You’ll find both ends of the accommodation scale just across the gravel driveway from acclaimed Waipara winery Black Estate. For the glampers, there’s Russell’s Cabins, which from the outside look a little like DoC huts, but on the inside are full of luxury touches like organic mattresses, feather duvets, high-quality linens, gas heaters and Real World toiletries. There are two sleeping cabins, for a maximum of four guests, plus one living cabin with vintage sofa, board games and a view over the Waipara Valley, plus outdoor kitchen with basic cooking facilities. The outdoor bathtub is big enough for two and sits under the peace and quiet of a stand of gum trees.
If your tastes fall more on the luxury side, you’ll find a tranquil retreat further down the driveway. Kumiko’s Guest House was built in 1995 by Russell Black, founder of Black Estate, for his wife. Taking inspiration from Kumiko’s Japanese heritage, the architecturally designed home features an internal courtyard with zen garden, and a sunken dining room. The guest house is now owned by Paul Robertson and Sue McGregor, who give guests a warm welcome - as do their pets, Mouse the cat and Barney the one-eyed dog. (Your own dogs are welcome, too). E-bikes are available free of charge for those staying at Kumiko’s, and you can ride the Waipara Valley Vineyard Trail direct from Black Estate to another favourite local winery, Greystone. Once you’re home, enjoy the billiards room, outdoor cedar hot tub, putting green, or just sit on the expansive veranda and enjoy the view with a glass of wine. Black Estate, of course.
kumikosnz.com
Kumiko's Guest House is a Japanese-style luxury accommodation option in Hurunui, and is just across the driveway from Black Estate winery. Photo / Stephanie Holmes
WHILE YOU’RE THERE
Waipara Valley was first planted with vines in the 1980s and now there are more than 75 vineyards spanning 1200ha. It’s easy to wend your way between cellar doors (with a sober driver, of course) - you’ll be happy whichever you end up at but there are two you absolutely shouldn’t miss.
Greystone is an organic winery with a pleasant setting looking out to the Omihi Hills. Its new courtyard, draped with hanging vines, is the perfect place for a long lunch and the wines are paired perfectly with food from chef Cameron Woodhouse, formerly of Christchurch’s fine-dining restaurant Inati and Queenstown’s Amisfield. Four courses with wine match is a very reasonable $105pp, or you can pop in for tastings ($16pp for six wines), smaller plates and cheese boards. greystonewines.co.nz
Across the valley at the foot of the Teviotdale hills is The Boneline where, behind the working winery, you’ll find a sun-drenched garden to linger over a wine tasting and a menu of sharing plates. Grapes are grown organically and handpicked, and the result is a selection of premium wines you’ll want to take away with you. theboneline.co.nz
The Boneline is one of the must-visit wineries in Waipara Valley, Hurunui. Photo / Supplied
Head further into the hills to visit the Iron Ridge Quarry Sculpture Park, the open-air gallery of local sculptor Raymond Herber. Formerly an abandoned limestone quarry, the site was bought by Herber in 1997 and has since been turned into an exhibition space for his large-scale works, set against a garden of native plants and the dramatic backdrop of the limestone hills. Bring a picnic, roam among the sculptures, chat to Herber, and take a moment to appreciate the beauty of Hurunui - a region far more Kiwis need to discover for themselves. raymondherber.com
Sculptor Raymond Herber lives, works and exhibits at Iron Ridge Quarry Sculpture Park in Hurunui, and guests are welcome to visit and explore. Photo / Stephanie Holmes
CHECKLIST: HURUNUI
GETTING THERE
Air NZ and Jetstar fly to Christchurch. Hurunui is less than an hour’s drive from the airport.
