Nelson: the insider's guide

Street cafe customers near Nelson Cathedral. Photo / Herald on Sunday

There is one thing everybody must do in Nelson and that's hit the Saturday morning market in the centre of town - easily the best, most bustling market in the country.

On a sunny day sit over a morning coffee and people-watch as the locals catch up over the weekly vege shop. From there wander around the stalls to buy everything from boutique cheese to pastries, jewellery, furniture, art, crafts and clothing. Try Fanny Adams for cute and comfy underwear, a delicious blue cheese and kumara pie from My Pie or sausage from the Bratwurst Grill.

The other must-do here is the World of Wearable Arts and Collectible Cars Museum, near the airport. Though the world-famous Wearable Arts Awards show has moved to Wellington, its home remains in Nelson.

The event's organising staff are all still based here, as is the outstanding museum, which is a beautifully displayed archive of creations from the awards' 22-year history. Wander through the surreal glow-in-the-dark gallery to the main exhibition space where key creations parade in on a moving catwalk. The museum displays up to 60 creations at any one time, changing the exhibition twice a year.

Attached to the museum, making it a one-stop tourist destination for the whole family, is the Collectible Cars museum. This is one man's incredible private collection of close to 110 cars, that takes in vintage classics, rare vehicles and almost everything else car-nuts can think of.

What's on Nelson Arts Festival: From October 15-29 the town will host a huge variety of local and international artists, writers and performers as part of its annual arts festival.

The festival will open with the Port Nelson Masked Parade, where more than 10,000 people are expected to throng, and from then performances, workshops and readings will take place at different venues around the city.

Where to stay: The Qualmark four-star Rutherford Hotel Nelson - a Heritage Hotel - is a perfect base to explore Nelson Tasman region, with 113 recently refurbished rooms right in the heart of town.

It has three dining options - Rutherford cafe for lunch or a quick coffee, and for dinner either Oceano seafood restaurant for delicious fresh local produce, as well as a selection of lamb and beef, and the exhilarating and authentic Miyazu Japanese Restaurant.

But if it's too much effort to leave your room, the Miyazu bento box is one of the most delicious room service treats you'll find. The hotel also has a gym, swimming pool and large conference facilities.

For bookings and more information on the numerous exciting acts on offer during the Nelson Arts Festival 2009 go to nelsonartsfestival.co.nz.

The Rutherford is also the venue for one of the highlights of the Arts Festival.

Hotel - a play of intersecting lives and unfolding stories about some of the characters who pass through a hotel room - will play in room 101 from October 15-20, tickets $45.

Rutherford Heritage Hotel has a special of $175 a night for an executive room with breakfast for two. For reservations call toll free 0800 36 88 88.

Where to eat and drink: Ask about the best restaurants in this part of the country and two names always head the list: Hopgoods in Trafalgar St, Nelson's main drag, and Bouterey's at 251 over the hill in Richmond. Both featured in Cuisine magazine's recent restaurants of the year list and specialise in exquisite, beautifully fresh food, efficient but friendly service and perfectly formed wine lists.

Alternatively, try Caffe Affare in Trafalgar St for good food at reasonable prices in a warm, cosy setting with very good, friendly service. Round on the waterfront is the iconic Boatshed, which has recently changed owners, and its neighbour the more recent but very charming Boat House. The Boat House does mostly casual dining - burgers and pizzas - but does it well, and on a clear, crisp Nelson night there's no better spot for a drink than on the deck, right over the water.

For coffee, try the newly opened Zumo on Rutherford St - it looks a little like an old motorcycle shop from the outside but the coffee is good. And for a late night drink, hit the also recently opened The Free House, a relaxed but hip bar and brewery inside an old church on Collingwood St.

If you want to know more about Noel Kennedy's different wine, food, art and environment tours head to wineexposed.co.nz or newzealandnaturetours.com. He specialises in small groups - even just one person - and you can go in mixed groups or book a private tour.

Getting there: Air New Zealand offers up to nine flights a day from Auckland to Nelson, with fares starting from $95 a person one way, and up to 11 flights a day from Wellington with fares from $73.