Mt Taranaki's dangerous beauty

By HEATHER RAMSEY

Looking like a picture a child might draw of a pretty snow-capped mountain, Mt Taranaki (aka Egmont) is probably the country's most iconic mountain. It is also one of our most popular and easily accessible climbing mountains, but as Tongariro found out long ago, it's not as gentle as it looks.

According to Maori legend, Mt Taranaki once sat in the centre of the North Island among the other great northern mountains including Tongariro. After an earth-shattering battle over the beautiful female mountain Pihanga, in which Tongariro lost his head, Taranaki was banished, battered and bleeding, but still entire and perfect, and fled towards the setting sun.

The Pouakai Range unfurled a spur to halt this headlong flight, and since then the mountain has squatted in the centre of the Taranaki ring plain, surrounded on three sides by the wild waters of the Tasman Sea.

When the sun sinks low in the western sky and its dying fires wrap this lonely mountain in feathers of gold, purple and pink, legend says Taranaki is defiantly displaying its chiefly cloak to the distant central mountains. And when the mountain is shrouded in mist and grey cloud, it is supposedly weeping broken-heartedly for Pihanga.

The legend touches on two features of the mountain - its beauty, and its unpredictability. Add another feature - accessibility - and you have a lethal combination. This deceptive mountain claims the sorry statistic of 62 deaths since the first European ascent by German naturalist Ernst Dieffenbach and his companion, James "Worser" Heberley in 1839.

According to mountain guide Ross Eden, conditions on the mountain change within minutes, and this is what catches unprepared climbers out. Eden is also a member of the Taranaki Alpine Cliff Rescue team, a team of experts that mobilises at a moment's notice, day or night in any conditions, to rescue those in difficulty on the mountain.

"Unfortunately we see the same thing too often - people who either overestimate their capabilities, or underestimate the mountain - usually a combination of both. Even if conditions are perfect when they set out, trampers and climbers should still carry a full range of clothing and equipment."

Alpine rescue is a dangerous, difficult and sometimes tragic task and Eden much prefers to show visitors the beauty of the mountain in his role as head guide with Topguides.

"In summer many people still like to take a guide on the popular northern route, but other clients opt for the more adventurous, lesser-known routes, where we can include rock-climbing and abseiling."

It's this time of year, though, when Taranaki mountain guides really prove their worth. The mountain looks its picture-perfect best with a coating of snow, but it's also at its most dangerous. Snow quickly turns to ice, and anyone without crampons and ice-axes can find themselves in a dangerous predicament, unable to move either up or back.

"In winter, even the northern route requires full alpine equipment and preferably a guide," says Eden. "A winter ascent is a real challenge, and as a guide, it's even more rewarding to get people to the top - and back."

I wasn't game for a full winter ascent, instead opting for one of the mountain's easier loop tracks. Even so, safety and preparedness are emphasised strongly, which reassures me as much as Eden's CV. He has over 20 years' experience on Taranaki and stopped counting summit climbs when he got to 200 - and that's in all conditions.

Topguides is the only approved avalanche training provider permitted in Egmont National Park. All guides have nationally recognised qualifications and are approved by the Department of Conservation, so I feel I'm in safe hands.

The trail that loops through goblin forest dripping with banners of moss and lichen is firm underfoot, and the streams we cross co-operate by keeping their level low enough to enable us to rock hop to the other side.

It's mostly downhill at first, and that should have set the fitness alarm bells ringing.

Soon we're out of the bush and slogging up a cruel series of steps towards the aptly named Puffer, which forms part of the northern summit route. Patches of ice lie in shadowy places, reminders of an earlier snowfall.

Above us, the summit is snow-bound and glistening invitingly in the early-winter sun. It looms temptingly close and I can see why people are deceived into thinking it's just a short stroll away and end up being caught out by the elements. Even though it's a beautiful day and the sun and physical exertion are warming, the air is alpine cold, and the slight wind has nuances of a southerly storm.

The peak is at our back as we cut down to the car park, and the forward view of forested national park, patchwork farmland and the sweep of the coast keeps my mind off the rigours of the downhill trek.

By the time we get back, my legs are like quivering jelly, I think my nose is starting to drip but I can't tell because it's numb, and I'm pretty sure my cheeks are blanched the colour of waxed paper. It's a small price to pay for the satisfaction of completing the tramp, and the mountain air is incredibly invigorating.

As we get in the 4WD to head home, Eden casts his eyes skywards.

"Think it's going to snow tonight. See the way that cloud over there ... "

I lose concentration and miss the lecture on clouds and weather patterns, but in the morning when I look out the window, the mountain is there in all its glory, resplendent in a new coating of pristine snow.

Top Guides

Case notes

* Getting there

New Plymouth is well served by Air New Zealand and Origin Pacific. Flights take 50 minutes. It is a 4.5-hour drive from Auckland. Intercity and Dalroy have daily coach services.

* To the mountain

There are three main vehicle-access points - North Egmont, East Egmont, and Dawson Falls. Cruise NZ Tours, (06) 758 3222, and Seaspray Tours, (06) 758 9676, (025) 649 7104, operate mountain shuttles between New Plymouth and North Egmont - a 30-minute drive.

* Where to stay

New Plymouth has a full range of accommodation. DoC has huts on the mountain, as well as the historic Camphouse at North Egmont and Konini Lodge at Dawson Falls. There is private accommodation at East Egmont and Dawson Falls.

* Safety

A guide is recommended for all routes outside the summer months. In summer, the only safe summit route is the northern route, and even this should be undertaken with extreme care as conditions deteriorate rapidly.

Allow eight hours for the return climb. The intentions book must be signed before and after your climb.

* Guides

Topguides, contact Ross Eden.

Phone 021 838 513 or 0800 4GUIDE (0800 448433).
info@topguides.co.nz