"Yes, we're going to get wet," he said cheerfully. "It's all part of the fun; and we do have super-efficient drying rooms at the lodges."
I thought about Dan's idea of fun often throughout the night when I woke to the hammering of rain on the roof; and again in the morning when I opened the curtains to see the churning Clinton River barely contained by its banks. We stood around after breakfast, the 16 of us all glum.
"We Californians are a desert people, you know," remarked Bruce, but he was no match for the brisk optimism of the guides, and we set off, 53km of trail ahead. By the time it was all behind us, I had learned that there is no soft version of the Milford Track: the rain falls on guided and independent walkers alike, and the only way to cope with flooded track is to take a deep breath and wade into it. Mackinnon Pass is still 1154m high, the descent is unavoidably knee-wrenching, and the sandflies bite everybody indiscriminately.
The pleasures are the same for all: electric-green mosses glowing in suffused light; robins flitting round your feet; sudden joy as the sun comes out and the day turns blue and gold; glaciers, keas and a forever view from the pass; tumbling rivers and the Sutherland Falls; and the relief of unlacing boots at the end of each day.
On the other hand, however, I'd found it hugely encouraging having friendly guides to cheer me on and distract me from the daily toil of putting one foot after the other; and reclining on a soft chair, warm and dry, sipping a drink and looking forward to salmon rillettes for dinner as I awaited my turn in the Foot Love session, I once even spared a thought for the independents dripping into their instant noodles along the track in the DoC hut. "Poor things," it might have been. Possibly, "Cheapskates."
Doing things the hard way may suit the Spartan types, but taking the easier option doesn't diminish the experience. Far from it: I was much better able to enjoy the fabulous scenery and physical exertion having slept well, and carrying only a small pack; and after a day spent chilly and wet, or dripping with sweat, the simple delight of a hot shower is impossible to exaggerate.
It also helps, as the trail winds on, to have something to look forward to, and for luxury, there's no beating Blanket Bay at Glenorchy.
As I lolled in the jacuzzi, gazing across the lake to the mountains, my smugness knew no bounds. Space, peace and elegant surroundings, fine food, my own stone and timber chalet where every whim was met ... it was the perfect reward.
CHECKLIST
Ultimate Hikes: The five-day Ultimate Hikes package includes guides, some equipment, transport, a boat trip on Milford Sound and accommodation along the Milford Track.
Where to stay: Eichardt's has rooms in its historic Queenstown building plus four comfortable Cottage Suites.
Blanket Bay, at the Glenorchy end of Lake Wakatipu, has a range of luxurious accommodation.
Pamela Wade was hosted by Ultimate Hikes, Eichardt's Private Hotel and Blanket Bay.
