It’s that time of year when we look back and reminisce about our top travel experiences in 2023: the highlights and special moments that just might inspire your next adventure in 2024. This article was one of the stories that our readers enjoyed the most in 2023.
We’ve mulled over Australia’s greatest urban rivalry to decide once and for all which metropolis takes the crown.
Call it sibling rivalry, one-upmanship or just sheer bloody-mindedness, but Sydney and Melbourne cannot stop griping about one another.
Melburnians say that Sydneysiders are loud, money-grabbing and vain. Sydneysiders pour scorn on Melbourne’s dreary weather and lack of beaches.
Each winter the two cities get to play out their rivalry on the football field, when the Sydney Swans take on Melbourne’s top AFL teams – an already emotionally charged event, made more so by the fact that the Swans began life as South Melbourne, migrating north in 1984, much to the disgust of their Victorian fans.
So extreme is the desire to outsmart or outclass one another, that when it was announced recently that the population of Melbourne had inched up past that of Sydney, there was an outpouring of delight on the Yarra and dismay in the Emerald City. One Sydney columnist even said flags on the Harbour Bridge should be flown at half-mast.
But how do the two cities compare when it comes to planning a holiday there – who wins in the eating out, culture, attractions and shopping stakes? We’ve pitted them head to head where it matters, in an honest assessment designed to finally set this great debate to rest once and for all.
Sydney
History
As most people know, Sydney – or more precisely Port Jackson – was settled as a penal colony by the British in 1788. Transportation to New South Wales ended in 1868, and by this time large numbers of free settlers were arriving in the colony. Sydney’s large natural harbour quickly established the outpost as a trading port, with links to India, South America, the Pacific and, of course, England.
Despite the presence of a garrison, colonial Sydney was a tough, lawless and, by many accounts, odorous place. Sailors claimed they could smell the fetid streets as soon as they passed through Sydney Heads. Despite these miserable conditions, early settlers were reluctant to leave the security of the harbour, but eventually spread out across the Liverpool Plain, crossing the Blue Mountains in 1813.
High-quality merino wool proved to be an economic godsend for the struggling colony, which also benefited from the discovery of gold in the 1850s. Sydney boomed again during the Second World War when large numbers of American GIs arrived, many housed under canvas in Centennial Park. Post-war migration from continental Europe transformed Sydney both economically and culturally, diluting what had been, until then, a staid Anglo-Saxon outpost marooned in the Pacific.
Score: 9/10
Arts and culture
Sydney’s most iconic building may be the Opera House, with its famous scalloped roof, but there is a strong tradition of philistinism in this maritime city. Indeed, many would say that the pursuit of affluence is the main game in town. Despite this, the Emerald City does invest heavily in its cultural institutions – a sparkling new A$344 million art gallery, Sydney Modern, opened last December. While Sydneysiders are obsessed with the great outdoors, they also flock to see theatre, live music and comedy. The Australian Ballet Company, Opera Australia, Bangarra Dance and the Australian Chamber Orchestra are all based in Sydney.
Many of the major cultural happenings, such as the Sydney Festival, take place during the summer months, as do a host of spectacular outdoor events, such as Symphony Under the Stars, Carols in the Domain and the Sydney Gay & Lesbian Mardi Gras. Despite a vibrant arts calendar, there is no question that sport remains the dominant pre-occupation here, with a strong following for rugby union, AFL, soccer and cricket. But Rugby League is the pre-eminent winter code, enjoying fanatical support across the city and suburbs, culminating in the annual State of Origin series between Queensland and New South Wales.
Score: 5/10
Food and drink
Sydney’s other major obsession is food and drink. Only the sports pages are read with as much passion as the weekly restaurant reviews. Everyone wants to be seen at the trendiest bars or eateries, which are no longer just clustered around the CBD and inner-city. The post-pandemic dining scene is pretty eclectic, with plenty of new up-scale restaurants and more affordable places in the suburbs. Sydney’s newest entertainment precinct is Barangaroo, which is packed with glamorous venues, but there are plenty of interesting new bars and restaurants in Darling Square and Chinatown too.
Several of the city’s quirkier laneway bars did not survive Covid, but quirky replacements are springing up in Potts Point, Redfern, Newtown, Surry Hills and elsewhere. Sydney’s coffee culture has proved equally resilient, and the city now rivals Melbourne for the range and quality of its crema. Bespoke coffee roasters are now springing up everywhere. Check out Sample Coffee in Surry Hills and Mecca Coffee in Alexandria. The newest trend is the rise of micro-breweries, many of which are clustered around Marrickville. Some of the better-known brews are Young Henrys, James Squire, Wayward Brewing and The Lord Nelson.
Score: 7/10
Sights, shops and hotels
With the Sydney Opera House, Sydney Harbour Bridge, Bondi Beach, Manly, Queen Victoria Building (QVB), Centennial Park and the Blue Mountains in its locker, Sydney seems to outclass its southern rival. It may no longer be the most populous city in Australia, but its jaw-dropping physical beauty and pleasant subtropical climate are unrivalled – at least within Australia. The vast, yacht-strewn harbour is the beating heart of Sydney, a busy commercial thoroughfare fringed by waterfront mansions, dinky coves and a surprising amount of natural bushland.
Although the skyline is dominated by glass and steel, the city still retains much of its quaint colonial design, evident along Macquarie Street and in cobbled laneways of The Rocks. Sydney’s retail offerings are also a mixture of the modern and traditional, with historic shopping precincts such as The Strand Arcade and QVB competing with Westfield (Sydney and Bondi Junction). As Australia’s major gateway, Sydney naturally offers an excellent range of hotels – from boutique establishments to major international brands such as the Four Seasons, Shangri-La and InterContinental. A number of new, mid-size hotels – including the Aiden Hotel and Ace Hotel – cater for younger, hipster travellers looking for value and sophistication in equal measure.
Score: 7/10
All-round atmosphere
Many visitors comment that Sydney will be fantastic when it’s finished. Few cities in the world re-invent themselves as frequently as this one, which has recently installed an elaborate light rail (tram) network and is currently spending billions of dollars upgrading the rail system. Crown Sydney, a daunting 890ft-tall glass toothpick which opened in 2020, is an expression of Sydney’s insatiable need to be noticed and admired. Sydneysiders like the opera house for the same reason: because it put their city on the architectural map.
What it lacks in sophistication Sydney more than compensates for with chutzpah, which it has by the bucketload. Like New Yorkers, Sydneysiders cannot stop up-selling their city – despite its crumbling public transport, traffic snarls and obscenely priced real estate. Locals may be more aspirational than ever (hence the plethora of boutiques selling Cartier, Zegna, Ferragamo and Christian Louboutin), but they remain disarmingly blunt and unpretentious. Dress codes are extremely relaxed – few men don ties or even jackets, while gym wear seems to be the default choice for women of all ages. Other than hotel staff, no-one is ever likely to address you as sir or madam.
Score: 7/10
Melbourne
History
The discovery of gold in Victoria’s Central Highlands in 1851 transformed what had been considered one of colonial Australia’s least successful experiments. By the start of the 20th Century, the city of wide European boulevards and fine civic buildings could be described, without irony, as “Marvellous Melbourne”, a jewel of the British Empire. The Victorian gold rush attracted thousands of hopeful prospectors from around the globe, quadrupling Australia’s population between 1851 and 1871.
The private fortunes made on the goldfields soon trickled into Melbourne, then a shabby outpost on the banks of the Yarra River. Imposing hotels, coffee palaces and ornate theatres sprang up to satisfy the whims of cashed-up diggers. Melbourne’s prosperity was further enhanced by the success of the state’s wool trade, as wealthy farmers acquired huge sheep stations in Victoria’s Western District. The influx of money and people allowed Victoria to petition for independence from New South Wales, and Melbourne soon became Australia’s major financial and cultural hub, a position it held until the 1950s when Sydney began to challenge its pre-eminence. Melbourne’s fortunes revived under Premier Jeff Kennett, who launched major urban projects, such as Docklands. Its renaissance continues.
Score: 8/10
Arts and Culture
“The notion of Sydney society is a contradiction in terms,” once quipped the late, great comedian Barry Humphries. Melbourne’s sense of cultural superiority is well-entrenched, and largely justified. Where Sydney is brash and suntanned, Melbourne is pale and interesting, with a distinctly Central European sensibility – fed, no doubt, by the many refugees who fled here after the Second World War.
Live performance, especially theatre, classical music and modern dance, is the lifeblood of Melbourne, and there’s even a jazz scene, a genre that is largely extinct in Sydney. Most of the touring blockbuster shows, such as Moulin Rouge and The Rocky Horror Show, have their Australian run in Melbourne, a city which boasts the country’s only true theatreland on Collins Street.
With its pathetic spire, Melbourne’s Arts Centre may not be quite as photogenic as the Sydney Opera House, but offers a packed program of classical concerts, opera, dance and stand-up comedy. Similarly, the National Gallery of Victoria seems to tap into the zeitgeist with a series of record-breaking touring exhibitions – from Van Gogh to Alexander McQueen. It is no surprise that Melbourne hosts the country’s major international comedy festival which draws audiences as large and vociferous as the AFL.
Score: 8/10
Food and drink
Professional wait staff, young, gifted chefs and a clientele that is willing to support its favourite restaurant week-in, week-out combine to make Melbourne the unrivalled food capital of Australia.
Like all big cities, Melbourne has its fair share of soggy pizzas and dodgy kebabs, but the overall quality of food and service in this city is astonishing – whether you are checking out the latest hip eatery or pulling up a chair at one of the foodie icons, such as Grossi, The European or MoVida.
Melburnians are passionate about their food, but not wedded to any particular cuisine. French, Greek, Korean, Chinese, Spanish and Mexican are all equally popular and often given a local twist. To really appreciate Melbourne’s deep attachment to fresh produce, it’s worth spending a couple of hours at the magnificent Queen Victoria Market, with its covered fruit and vegetable market and grand Meat & Fish Hall.
Melbourne’s coffee culture owes much to Australia’s post-Second World War immigration boom, which delivered expert roasters, and espresso machines, from Italy. A myriad of laneway cafes feeds Melbourne’s insatiable thirst for coffee – although tea, served in proper china, is making a minor comeback.
Score: 9/10
Sights, shops and hotels
Supercharged by the Victorian gold rush (1851-1871), Melbourne was able to build on a grand scale, creating imposing structures such as Flinders Street Station, Parliament House and the State Library of Victoria. Less well known are the many charming bridges, such as Princes Bridge and Sandridge Bridge, that were built across the Yarra during this period.
However, Melbourne’s most revered landmark is not its muddy river, but Collins Street, a splendid, tree-lined shopping boulevard which stretches from Parliament House to Docklands. The attractive eastern section is known as the Paris End, and a number of up-market hotels, including the Sofitel, InterContinental and The Westin, share this prestigious address – though these established players now face competition from a wave of funky new hotels, such as the Quincy, Lancemore and Voco Melbourne Central.
The main retail precinct radiates out from Bourke Street Mall and includes Myer and David Jones department stores, plus a newer complex of shops and cafes that occupies the old GPO building. For vintage and local fashion, you’ll need to hop on the tram to Chapel Street, South Yarra, or Brunswick Street, Fitzroy, or take a cab to the Chadstone Shopping Mall, a fashion megastore.
Score: 7/10
All-round atmosphere
Unlike Sydney, which is a chameleon city, Melbourne feels permanent and much older than its 188-year history. The grand neo-classical buildings, wide boulevards and slow-moving trams set it apart from other Australian cities, and it’s fair to say that Melburnians value tradition and continuity far more than their Sydney cousins. It is hard to imagine The Royal Exhibition Building, a wonderful piece of 19th Century architectural whimsy, escaping the grasp of Sydney’s ruthless developers.
Unlike downtown Sydney – which largely empties after 6pm – Melbourne always seems to be teeming with people drawn into the city to watch an Aussie Rules game, have a cold beer or queue outside their favourite eatery for a table.
Each evening people meet up at Federation Square, the closest thing Melbourne has to an Italian piazza, before heading off to Chinatown, the Southbank or Docklands.
With no surf beaches or million-dollar harbour views to distract them, Melburnians seem much more focused on the actual texture of their city, treating it as their own urban playground rather than just a place of work.
Climate plays its part too. Melburnians are an indoors type, which may explain why people here have more time to watch a play, browse in a bookshop or linger over a meal.
Score: 8/10
Conclusion
Based on this highly subjective overview, Melbourne, on 40 points, emerges as a clear winner in the inter-city contest with Sydney – which could only scrape together 35 points. While Sydney scores highly on its natural attractions, such as beaches, Melbourne’s dynamic arts scene, fantastic cuisine and more sophisticated vibe ensured that it finished out front.
Fast facts
Sydney
- State: New South Wales
- Founded: 1788
- Population: 4,856,700
- Number of hotel rooms: 43,841 (2019 figure)
- Did you know?: Sydney was the setting for Australia’s only military coup, when a group of army officers arrested Governor William Blight. The coup lasted for two years until a new governor arrived from London.
Melbourne
- State: Victoria
- Founded: 1835
- Population: 4,875,400
- Number of hotel rooms: 34,603 (2018 figure)
- Did you know?: When the temperance movement arrived in Melbourne in the 19th Century, locals turned to coffee instead, building some 50 Coffee Palaces. The city’s celebrated coffee culture revived in the 1950s.
This story was originally published on April 26, 2023
