James shows me something from the first Test match at The Oval in London, in 1882. In all the euphoria, no one noticed that the Australian wicketkeeper, Jack Blackham, had pocketed the ball ...
Besides offering stadium and club tours, Melbourne Cricket Ground is also home to the National Sports Museum.
There's an impressive display of Olympic torches (the Games were held here in 1956) and galleries devoted to tennis, soccer and netball.
Melbourne lives and breathes sport. It hosts the Ashes, the Australian Open (tennis), the Melbourne Cup (horse racing) Formula 1 Grand Prix and Australian Rules Football.
If you're visiting, there's plenty for a sport-filled holiday, with hiking, diving, and surfing on the Mornington Peninsula, a 90-minute drive away.
Central Melbourne has lots of cycle paths, so I hire a bike (there are several rental shops and a city bike-share scheme similar to London's Boris bikes) and set off from Federation Square, home to the Australian Centre for the Moving Image and the Ian Potter Centre, a gallery dedicated exclusively to Australian Art.
I follow a path along the Yarra River, cross into parkland on the south bank and cycle to the city's Shrine of Remembrance, dedicated to servicemen killed in World War I. Each year, at 11am on November 11, a shaft of light shines through an opening in the ceiling, illuminating the word "love" on the stone of remembrance. Heading back towards the city is easy, and since Melbourne is flat and compact, it's a great way to combine sightseeing and a little exercise.
WHERE TO STAY
Ovolo Laneways
Located in Melbourne's CBD, just minutes from Federation Square, Ovolo Laneways is modern and fun.
There's free Wi-Fi, a free guest laundry (detergent provided) and free Happy Hour drinks on the terrace.
Rooms range from studios to a penthouse suite with an outside Jacuzzi. They have a classy, contemporary feel with welcome snacks and a complimentary minibar (wine, beer, water and juices) replenished daily.
Double rooms from A$329, including breakfast.
WHERE TO EAT
St Crispin
Collingwood's St Crispin, a small neighbourhood restaurant northeast of the city (take tram 86 from the centre), offers Little Bites such as Port Phillip scallops, along with five and seven-course tasting menus and an a la carte option. Located in an old cobblers, this award-winning restaurant is named after the trade's patron saint.
The restaurant is light and airy with high ceilings and a large bar. The atmosphere is casual, leisurely and laid-back, with waiters finding plenty of time to chat.
Mains include glazed beef neck with beetroot and black barley, and swordfish with watercress noodles, mussels and prawns. Two courses: A$50, three courses A$65.
Embla
Recently opened Embla, in the city centre, is primarily a wine bar, but has also won recognition for its food. It's long and narrow with painted brick walls, wooden beams and a wooden bar. The atmosphere is buzzing, with a bistro-feel and a youthful vibe.
The restaurant doesn't take bookings for dinner, and is almost always full, so unless you're lucky enough to grab one of the tables at the front, you'll probably have to squeeze into a row of banquette seating at the back, next to the small open kitchen. The emphasis is on traditional cooking with simple flavours. Most plates are designed for sharing. Main dishes: A$17-A$37.
WHERE TO DRINK
The Garden State Hotel
This sprawling, four-level watering hole in Flinders Lane (one of the CBD's main foodie streets) offers a wide range of beers, plus wine, champagne and cocktails. The 130-year-old building is a former saw mill.
Its Beer Garden has wooden tables set among fig trees, while the subterranean Rose Garden serves cocktails in an eclectic saloon decorated with roses in vintage vases.
There's also a traditional public bar with booths and fireplaces.
Koko Black Cafe
Melbourne is known as the coffee capital of Australia and there are independent coffee shops everywhere. For a caffeine fix — and hand-crafted chocolates — in historic surroundings, try the family-run Koko Black in Collins St.
A winding, wooden staircase leads to an upstairs cafe. Relax on leather sofas with a coffee or try chilli hot chocolate or a traditional variety, flavoured with hazelnut or cinnamon.
WHAT TO DO
Go surfing
The Mornington Peninsula offers good surfing. Beginners should try the gentler waves off Sorrento Beach or join classes at Point Leo and Shoreham. Gunnamatta offers some of the best waves for experienced surfers, while Bells Beach is where the Rip Curl Pro is held every Easter.
If you fancy a lesson, try Salty Surf School. Two-hour group classes cost A$60 per person.
Discover Hidden Melbourne
Join a walking tour to discover more about Melbourne's laneways (alleyways) and historic shopping arcades. Our guide, Nicholas Jones, took us to the Block Arcade in Collins St, with its vaulted roof and mosaic floor, and the Royal Arcade in Bourke St, once a Turkish bath house.
Checklist
GETTING THERE
Qantas flies from Auckland to Melbourne, with return Economy Class fares from $509.
