KEY POINTS:
1 Hang out at Parehua
If you're reaching your end-of-year breaking point, a weekend at this peaceful, five-star sanctuary just 10 minutes by foot from the town square is just the business.
You have the choice of staying in a luxury suite, cottage or villa, located next to a willow-fringed lake surrounded by lush fields and spanning views of the Martinborough Terraces (hence the name Parehua, the Maori term for terraces). The stylish open-plan rooms are fully self-contained and come with added comforts such as a spa bath, robes and slippers, a gas fire that ignites with the flick of a button and a deck that's made for soaking up the sun (or sunset over a vino).
For the ultimate pamper, you can organise an in-room massage, but there's also lots to do if you feel energetic: tennis, petanque, or cycling tours are on offer. Or you could just linger around the pool outside the pavilion, where barbecue dinners, drinks and breakfast are served (including scrambled eggs even Gordon Ramsay would salivate over).
Parehua has packages for every rhyme and reason, including corporate and romantic ones. For details, see www.parehua.co.nz
2 Bike through the vineyards
You don't need a car to become acquainted with this famous pinot region's most prolific drops. Cruising through the vineyards on a bike, with the wind in your hair and breathing in the fresh country air, is far more pleasant. Don't forget to grab a wine village map, pack a picnic and stop off at a scenic spot along the way - such as the tree-lined town square or along one of the rivers - to replenish your energy stores. If it's not practical for you to bring your own two wheels, Parehua rents out vintage bikes with a basket up front for all your provisions.
3 Fill your tum
Where there's good wine there's usually good nosh - hence Martinborough also has a reputation as a foodie destination. There are plenty of wining and dining venues to choose from - top of our list was the family-run French Bistro on Kitchener St. Here you can indulge in French fare that comes suspiciously close to the real thing - such as the memorable crusted Normandy-style free-range pork cutlet in a delicate calvados apple brandy sauce.
The atmosphere is authentic, too, with black-and-white photographs of France and its people gracing the walls of this cosy establishment.
Also worth the taste test is Est, a 19th century post office turned award-winning wine bar and eatery across the road.
It has an impressive wine and dessert wine list, and offers a unique blend of fresh local produce and meats, such as eye fillet, lamb and venison, with ethnic touches from all over the globe, including Italy and Morocco.
4 Go to the movies
Yep, this sleepy little village even has its very own movie theatre, Circus Cinema.
There are two theatres in the complex, a 33-seater and a 49-seater, with groovy red lampshades to put you in the mood. Circus comes with a licensed bar and cafe so you don't have to go dry or hungry during your celluloid session.
They have pizza and club nights, and you can even rent the theatres for private functions - perfect for throwing a party Bogart-Bergman style.
5 Go shopping
You don't have to go to neighbouring Greytown to find cool shops to peruse - Martinborough has its own, especially on Kitchener St. At Furniture Focus you'll find an original array of colourful doorstoppers, felt cushions, fabric shopping bags and jewellery. There's more colour to be inspired by at Thrive, the funky clothing store across the road. They have men's and women's gear - and a friendly in-house foxie dog.
For a slightly more mature market, there's the stylish Soeur boutique while Scenario of Martinborough is the spot for decor gadgets and kids' toys.
6 Hit the greens
You'll find Martinborough's 18-hole, 72-par golf course just five minutes east of town. At 100-odd years old, it's a beautiful course surrounded by vineyards. It's 5546 metres long but mainly flat, which makes it quite easy to play without getting you into too much of a puff. The holes have interesting names representing the surrounding countryside, including - named after the family who gifted land to the borough. Be aware the greens are hard and fast, so you'll need to keep your shots high and soft, otherwise your ball could end up in a neighbouring vineyard!
7 Go to the pub
A game of golf in this neck of the woods isn't complete without a cleansing post-par ale at the Peppers Martinborough Hotel in the town centre.
The two-storey colonial building was built back in 1882, and still maintains its original character - plus it's big on good old-fashioned personal attention. Peppers is another goodie if you're looking for luxury accommodation (they have 16 guestrooms, each with their own private verandah) or a bite to eat (they're famous for their fresh, locally farmed produce).
If you fancy a game of snooker and a whisky, make a beeline for the hotel's Malt Whiskey Bar.
8 Have a cuppa
The Village Cafe was recently awarded Best Wairarapa Cafe 2007 by Cafe magazine. And with good reason - the spacious cafe with its wine cellar interior (and adjacent wine tasting room and shop) does wicked coffees and cooked breakfasts with in-house cured bacon and homemade preserves. Topping the ambience charts is De Medici Cafe. Their Renaissance interior is quirky, their service friendly and their coffee benissimo.
9 Hike up the Pinnacles
While you're in the vicinity, you'd be silly not to visit the Putangirua Pinnacles. These surreal-looking rock formations starred in the Lord of the Rings. To get there, drive to the Pinnacles Scenic Reserve along Palliser Rd, about an hour out of Featherston. From here, do one of two to three hour walks, or the three to four hour loop, which will reward you with views of Cape Palliser and Lake Onoke.
10 Pamper yourself
Are you in agony after your trek up to the Pinnacles - or just partial to a pamper session? Rumour has it the team at Turret House are experts at unwinding uptight subjects. Headed by ex-Queenstown resident Gail Wilson - a make-up artist who worked on Lord of the Rings - the clinic offers a variety of beauty treatments in an exclusive setting. You can also have your hair and make-up done here - no surprise, since they specialise in weddings.
- Detours, HoS