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If Wellington is New Zealand's cultural capital then Lyttelton can't be far behind. As its name suggests, it's only a small town but it is laden with culture.
Fifteen minutes' drive from Christchurch, it is nestled in the base of an ancient volcano and is the jumping-off point
for exploring much of the Banks Peninsula.
The town is a port that should by rights lend itself to a rough sailor ambience.
Nothing could be further from the truth. Full of open-air cafes, gourmet markets and theatres, this is one little town that defies expectations.
Here, it's all about getting back to basics.
The empty block in the main street where the supermarket used to operate sits opposite a thriving organic wholefoods store - Lyttel Piko - giving you a good indication of where locals' hearts lie.
For visitors, the other spot to stock the chillybin is the Saturday morning farmers' market which is chock-full of fresh fruit and veges, delicious baked goods, goat cheeses, sweet honey and aromatic coffee.
Tapping further into that bohemian vibe, life in Lyttelton seems to focus largely on music.
On a sunny day it's not unusual to see a musician sitting at a cafe, strumming a guitar as you stroll by. Each year the town hosts a summer street festival (there is also a mid-winter version) when the town's hub, London St, is packed out. This year's summer street party is on February 23, when musicians, buskers, entertainers and food stalls will line the streets, plying their wares and performing for clusters of onlookers.
By night - festival or no - Lyttelton lights up. Funky bars and pubs swing into action with musos playing in every corner, some more talented than others but all contributing to the summer festival atmosphere.
A must-see on the after-dark tour of town is the unusual Wunderbar. This hole-in-the-wall bar, if you can find it, is a treat for the senses. The entrance is a doorway on the main street warning that the establishment is for "nice people only". From there you step into a dark alley, descend a flight of stairs into a dimly lit car park, stagger up a fire escape and arrive at the mysterious bar. Despite its adventurous beginnings, this drinking hole is a popular one, and decked out with bizarre dolls' heads, mirrors and candles.
Another popular haunt is the strikingly zebra-striped theatre called The Loons.
Based in what appears to be an old town hall, the rustic theatre hosts some world-class performers in its cosy atmosphere.
But what makes this spot on Banks Peninsula a perfect summer getaway spot is idling away the warm Canterbury days looking out over the bay; possibly from the deck of one of the many restaurants that line its edge, or sipping a sauvignon blanc from one of the peninsula's nearby wineries.
If you are a little more adventurous, there are plenty of outdoor challenges to keep you interested.
Flanked by the Port Hills, five minutes' walk out of the town will place you at the beginning of an excellent, and steep, climb to a spectacular view of both the bay and back towards Christchurch.
You can also walk along the volcano crater's rim, circling the town and glimpsing the bay from a different perspective. Take some sunscreen - there's little shade.
And if you hike, it stands to reason you've earned a little indulgence.
So cap off your stay in Lyttelton with a visit to chocolate haven She in Governors Bay, the next bay along the peninsula.
If there was a goddess of chocolate, this restaurant is where she might be found.
A tranquil vista and sinfully delicious menu make it a perfect way to spoil yourself after a healthy weekend of feasting on the soul food that Lyttelton provides.