Craig Tansley discovers a Jacuzzi and a helicopter on his lawn at one of New Zealand's finest, albeit laid-back, lodges.
It's doubtful that Norwegian Sondre Norheim, the father of modern skiing, imagined a ski "hut" like Whare Kea Lodge when he invented downhill skiing in the 1870s. Or that Russian Igor Sikorsky, inventor of the helicopter, envisaged a time and a place where one of his creations might land on a perfectly manicured Gatsby-like lawn, and whisk a couple straight from their outdoor jacuzzi - champagne in hand - into a private chalet on top of a remote snowy mountain range.
While this all sounds pretty decadent, inside Whare Kea Lodge the vibe's as down-homey as if you were staying with friends or family. But then… you will be (more on that later).
Nestled in amongst New Zealand's Southern Alps and built just above Lake Wānaka (you have direct access to it if you fancy a swim, in winter the water's a jolting 9 degrees, but in summer it'll get up to a swimmable 20 degrees), Whare Kea Lodge is located on 28 hectares of private farmland (complete with lambing ewes) just 10 minutes driving time from town. Once you arrive, you can pretend the world outside doesn't exist; just hunker down in a private lodge that fits a maximum of 12 guests in six bedrooms and stare through floor-to-ceiling windows at the green waters of Lake Wānaka and the mountains that change colour with the time of day.
There's a handy neighbour though, should you fancy a stroll. Walk on a path beside the lake to Rippon Vineyard and do a tasting of their award-winning pinot noirs with the same view you have of the surrounding mountains. Set on 60 hectares of a family farm, Rippon were one of the pioneers of the Central Otago wine region. You can walk to Wānaka too if you like to stretch your legs – and when you're done, call your guest house manager for a lift home. It's hard, however, to leave the lodge behind for too long.
Designed by renowned Melbourne architect John Mayne, the brief from owner Martyn Myer (of the Myer family retail dynasty) was to ditch the stiffness often associated with the kinds of high-end boutique hotels in Whare Kea's price range. It had to be luxurious, but Myer wanted an intimate place with no formality; because who needs to dress up for dinner on a ski or hiking holiday? He borrowed principles from Japanese architecture and made sure to include floor-to-ceiling windows so none of the views are wasted.
The Myer family have owned the property for nearly two decades and have taken note of what travellers passing through are looking for. They found most craved individual, private experiences, so they converted the property from a lodge where guests could book individual rooms and share communal spaces, into an exclusive retreat that guests must book out as a group (there are rates per night for groups up to six, or up to 12). Guests have full use of a fully equipped kitchen to cook their own meals, or they can use private chefs for some, or all meals. That way, you can have as much privacy – or pampering – as you choose.
"Offering exclusive hire allows the property manager to work with guests ahead of arrival so they have the best stay for them," property manager Gillian Boyes says.
But the coup de grace of Whare Kea is its chalet, one of the world's most spectacular alpine accommodation options. Picked up from the lodge's helipad by helicopter then flown over Lake Wānaka and the Southern Alps, you'll land on a mountain peak high in the Mt Aspiring National Park (at 1750m), then hike down to your own private chalet in the snow (even in summer) 50km from the nearest intrusion. A mountain host will take care of all your needs; meals come with views over New Zealand's tallest peak, Mt Cook, 120km to the northeast. It's a 20-minute flight to the lodge, guests can book a scenic flight with a hosted chalet lunch, a day trip, guided heli-skiing to and from the chalet (in winter) or overnight hosted retreats.
Harris Mountain Heli-Ski can also land on the lawn at Whare Kea Lodge and take you to one of more than 4000 heli-ski runs in more than 200 nearby peaks in seven separate mountain ranges.
Though if you'd sooner get to your ski resorts the old-fashioned way – by road – New Zealand's most under-rated ski resort, Treble Cone, is only a 35-minute drive away. With its views over Lake Wānaka and the Southern Alps, cheeky kea and challenging ski bowls, it's easily the best ski resort in the South Island. In summer, hikers can drive up to its mountains to traverse the rugged terrain, provided you complete an online safety briefing.
If hiking is your passion, you're right next to some of the best hiking trails in New Zealand with more than 750km to cover. There's everything here from short hikes to multi-day hikes – though a half-day hike might suit you best, so you still enjoy all the comforts of the lodge. One of the best half-day hikes in the country is only a short drive away – you'll cross a swing bridge into beech forest on the Rob Roy Glacier walk, finding waterfalls and glacier views along the way.
You're also 10 minutes drive from Wānaka, home to some of the country's top-rated regional restaurants and multiple activities, from winery day trips to fly fishing tours.
CHECKLIST: WHARE KEA LODGE
DETAILS
Book Whare Kea Lodge for one to six people for $3800 per night, or for 7-12 people for $4600 per night, the lodge comes with an on-site manager.
wharekealodge.com
Check alert level restrictions, vaccine requirements and Ministry of Health advice before travel. covid19.govt.nz
