Lucky and let off the hook

Big Dan Comer can spot a brown trout at 20 paces.

I can't reveal the whole secret but I will give you a few clues. If you want to catch fine fat trout, there are some awesome spots around Galatea in the Eastern Bay of Plenty. I can't say exactly where those spots are but I will mention the words "Rangitaiki", "Whirinaki" and "small tributaries".

If you want the full story I suggest you see local fishing guide Big Dan Comer, who has fished the area's numerous rivers and lakes since he was a kid and can - literally - spot a brown trout at 20 paces. He's also keen on catch-and-release since the small tributaries he frequents are susceptible to fishing pressure and he doesn't want too many of his finned business partners disappearing into someone else's frying pan.

"I always have a plan a, b and c," Dan explained as I waddled wader-footed beside him down to the water on a sunny Saturday. "If I take a client to a good spot and there's someone already there, we just head for the next spot."

Of course, there's more to catching fish than knowing where to head. As Dan said, "Good guiding's all about recognising the physical elements of the river and sharing your fishing skills so your client has the best chances of catching fish."

Over the next three hours he demonstrated the point ably. We fished several spots in three different rivers and caught trout each time.

Our largest was a 4 or 5lb (1.8-2.2kg) trout. "He's a regular," Dan said, unhooking the fish and giving me a good look at the mustard-yellow spawning colours. There was time for a quick photo before Dan put the lucky guy back in the water to swim away where, he reckons, "they sulk for about half a day".

Trout reputedly have a memory of only 30 seconds or so and one fish can easily be reeled in 10 times a season. Dan often recognises repeat catches by their markings, which helps him in assessing fish stocks.

Anyway, despite being a total novice, I can claim to have reeled in several decent-sized trout. To be perfectly truthful, though, I held the rod. It was my guide's deft assistance that ensured the "emerging mayfly" or "hair and copper" dryflies - all hand-made by Dan - popped down in the right spot.

Clearly, even for the modestly talented, there's bragging opportunity aplenty around Whirinaki, Rangitaiki and Lake Aniwhenua, either fishing with a guide or alone. A couple of years back one of Dan's clients landed a 15lb (6.8kg) trout and Dan has himself caught about 30 fish upwards of 10lb (4.5kg).

"In Japan the native trout are tiny," he says with a grin. "My Japanese clients think our fish are huge."

Fishing over, the afternoon was relaxed. Our private overnight residence in Galatea was Erinmead Cottage, which the kids had fallen in love with while I was out with the rod. The grounds are extensively planted in natives, there's a series of ponds which attract ducks and swans, and - perfect after a few hours' waist deep in an autumnal river - an outside spa pool.

Staying the night in Galatea was appropriate as well as comfortable. The area's Maori name is Kuhawaea, which refers to it being a place to catch the breath before going into Te Urewera, exactly the direction we were heading.

On Sunday morning, a 45-minute, mostly tarsealed drive took us to the River Road carpark, main entrance to the stunning Whirinaki Forest Park, which covers over 55,000ha between the Kaingaroa pine forest and Te Urewera National Park. Rimu, totara, kahikatea, matai and other forest giants tower overhead and the groundcover is dense, damp and mysterious.

Whirinaki can reward walkers with the sight or sound of whio (blue duck), kakariki, kaka, kiwi, even little native bats. Our park-edge midday wander was too short and cheerfully noisy to enjoy any of these treats, but the gnarled roots, huge trunks and fascinating fungi kept all of us happy, including the 4-year-old.

We kept on "shoe standard" tracks. But for more serious tramping, hunting and fishing, Whirinaki oozes opportunity, up to demanding, lightly marked tracks and even unmarked routes.

Looking for accommodation at the park's edge? There's a recreation camp at Mangamate on the way to the River Road car park. If you fancy something a bit special, go for Hukitawa Country Retreat, which offers three rooms (with ensuites) in the midst of 93ha of deer-grazed paddocks and native bush.

Host Lesley Handcock adores Whirinaki and reckons it is an area where visitors must spend at least 24 hours to get the full picture.

"A big part of the whole Whirinaki experience is sleeping in absolute silence, waking up to the birdsong and seeing the fingers of morning mist weaving between the mountain ranges."

Later in the day, she says, the many colours of the surrounding ridges are ever-changing and the evening light has photographers snapping.

"As for the night sky, it is amazing. There's no light pollution here. When the moon's absent the sky is so black, so clear, sometimes I think there's hardly any space for more stars. It's tempting for people to think, I'll just go for the day. But a 24-hour experience is so much more fulfilling."

Checklist

Galatea and Whirinaki National Park

Contact
You can contact the Department of Conservation's local office on 07 366 1080.

Fishing
Big Dan Guiding Services on 07 366 4579 or email sara_an@amcom.co.nz

Accommodation
Erinmead Cottage: ph 07 366 4806 or email mahlise@xtra.co.nz

Hukitawa Country Retreat: ph 07 366 3952 or email lesley@hukitawa.co.nz.

Further Information
You can get easy access to Galatea and the Ureweras via Whakatane. For information about the Whakatane district click on the link below or ring the Whakatane Information Centre on 0800 942 528.