NZ Herald
  • Home
  • Latest news
  • Video
  • New Zealand
  • Sport
  • World
  • Business
  • Entertainment
  • Podcasts
  • Quizzes
  • Opinion
  • Lifestyle
  • Travel
  • Viva
  • Weather forecasts

Subscriptions

  • Herald Premium
  • Viva Premium
  • The Listener
  • BusinessDesk

Sections

  • Latest news
  • New Zealand
    • All New Zealand
    • Crime
    • Politics
    • Education
    • Open Justice
    • Scam Update
    • The Great NZ Road Trip
  • On The Up
  • World
    • All World
    • Australia
    • Asia
    • UK
    • United States
    • Middle East
    • Europe
    • Pacific
  • Business
    • All Business
    • MarketsSharesCurrencyCommoditiesStock TakesCrypto
    • Markets with Madison
    • Media Insider
    • Business analysis
    • Personal financeKiwiSaverInterest ratesTaxInvestment
    • EconomyInflationGDPOfficial cash rateEmployment
    • Small business
    • Business reportsMood of the BoardroomProject AucklandSustainable business and financeCapital markets reportAgribusiness reportInfrastructure reportDynamic business
    • Deloitte Top 200 Awards
    • CompaniesAged CareAgribusinessAirlinesBanking and financeConstructionEnergyFreight and logisticsHealthcareManufacturingMedia and MarketingRetailTelecommunicationsTourism
  • Opinion
    • All Opinion
    • Analysis
    • Editorials
    • Business analysis
    • Premium opinion
    • Letters to the editor
  • Sport
    • All Sport
    • OlympicsParalympics
    • RugbySuper RugbyNPCAll BlacksBlack FernsRugby sevensSchool rugby
    • CricketBlack CapsWhite Ferns
    • Racing
    • NetballSilver Ferns
    • LeagueWarriorsNRL
    • FootballWellington PhoenixAuckland FCAll WhitesFootball FernsEnglish Premier League
    • GolfNZ Open
    • MotorsportFormula 1
    • Boxing
    • UFC
    • BasketballNBABreakersTall BlacksTall Ferns
    • Tennis
    • Cycling
    • Athletics
    • SailingAmerica's CupSailGP
    • Rowing
  • Lifestyle
    • All Lifestyle
    • Viva - Food, fashion & beauty
    • Society Insider
    • Royals
    • Sex & relationships
    • Food & drinkRecipesRecipe collectionsRestaurant reviewsRestaurant bookings
    • Health & wellbeing
    • Fashion & beauty
    • Pets & animals
    • The Selection - Shop the trendsShop fashionShop beautyShop entertainmentShop giftsShop home & living
    • Milford's Investing Place
  • Entertainment
    • All Entertainment
    • TV
    • MoviesMovie reviews
    • MusicMusic reviews
    • BooksBook reviews
    • Culture
    • ReviewsBook reviewsMovie reviewsMusic reviewsRestaurant reviews
  • Travel
    • All Travel
    • News
    • New ZealandNorthlandAucklandWellingtonCanterburyOtago / QueenstownNelson-TasmanBest NZ beaches
    • International travelAustraliaPacific IslandsEuropeUKUSAAfricaAsia
    • Rail holidays
    • Cruise holidays
    • Ski holidays
    • Luxury travel
    • Adventure travel
  • Kāhu Māori news
  • Environment
    • All Environment
    • Our Green Future
  • Talanoa Pacific news
  • Property
    • All Property
    • Property Insider
    • Interest rates tracker
    • Residential property listings
    • Commercial property listings
  • Health
  • Technology
    • All Technology
    • AI
    • Social media
  • Rural
    • All Rural
    • Dairy farming
    • Sheep & beef farming
    • Horticulture
    • Animal health
    • Rural business
    • Rural life
    • Rural technology
    • Opinion
    • Audio & podcasts
  • Weather forecasts
    • All Weather forecasts
    • Kaitaia
    • Whangārei
    • Dargaville
    • Auckland
    • Thames
    • Tauranga
    • Hamilton
    • Whakatāne
    • Rotorua
    • Tokoroa
    • Te Kuiti
    • Taumaranui
    • Taupō
    • Gisborne
    • New Plymouth
    • Napier
    • Hastings
    • Dannevirke
    • Whanganui
    • Palmerston North
    • Levin
    • Paraparaumu
    • Masterton
    • Wellington
    • Motueka
    • Nelson
    • Blenheim
    • Westport
    • Reefton
    • Kaikōura
    • Greymouth
    • Hokitika
    • Christchurch
    • Ashburton
    • Timaru
    • Wānaka
    • Oamaru
    • Queenstown
    • Dunedin
    • Gore
    • Invercargill
  • Meet the journalists
  • Promotions & competitions
  • OneRoof property listings
  • Driven car news

Puzzles & Quizzes

  • Puzzles
    • All Puzzles
    • Sudoku
    • Code Cracker
    • Crosswords
    • Cryptic crossword
    • Wordsearch
  • Quizzes
    • All Quizzes
    • Morning quiz
    • Afternoon quiz
    • Sports quiz

Regions

  • Northland
    • All Northland
    • Far North
    • Kaitaia
    • Kerikeri
    • Kaikohe
    • Bay of Islands
    • Whangarei
    • Dargaville
    • Kaipara
    • Mangawhai
  • Auckland
  • Waikato
    • All Waikato
    • Hamilton
    • Coromandel & Hauraki
    • Matamata & Piako
    • Cambridge
    • Te Awamutu
    • Tokoroa & South Waikato
    • Taupō & Tūrangi
  • Bay of Plenty
    • All Bay of Plenty
    • Katikati
    • Tauranga
    • Mount Maunganui
    • Pāpāmoa
    • Te Puke
    • Whakatāne
  • Rotorua
  • Hawke's Bay
    • All Hawke's Bay
    • Napier
    • Hastings
    • Havelock North
    • Central Hawke's Bay
    • Wairoa
  • Taranaki
    • All Taranaki
    • Stratford
    • New Plymouth
    • Hāwera
  • Manawatū - Whanganui
    • All Manawatū - Whanganui
    • Whanganui
    • Palmerston North
    • Manawatū
    • Tararua
    • Horowhenua
  • Wellington
    • All Wellington
    • Kapiti
    • Wairarapa
    • Upper Hutt
    • Lower Hutt
  • Nelson & Tasman
    • All Nelson & Tasman
    • Motueka
    • Nelson
    • Tasman
  • Marlborough
  • West Coast
  • Canterbury
    • All Canterbury
    • Kaikōura
    • Christchurch
    • Ashburton
    • Timaru
  • Otago
    • All Otago
    • Oamaru
    • Dunedin
    • Balclutha
    • Alexandra
    • Queenstown
    • Wanaka
  • Southland
    • All Southland
    • Invercargill
    • Gore
    • Stewart Island
  • Gisborne

Media

  • Video
    • All Video
    • NZ news video
    • Business news video
    • Politics news video
    • Sport video
    • World news video
    • Lifestyle video
    • Entertainment video
    • Travel video
    • Markets with Madison
    • Kea Kids news
  • Podcasts
    • All Podcasts
    • The Front Page
    • On the Tiles
    • Ask me Anything
    • The Little Things
    • Cooking the Books
  • Cartoons
  • Photo galleries
  • Today's Paper - E-editions
  • Photo sales
  • Classifieds

NZME Network

  • Advertise with NZME
  • OneRoof
  • Driven Car Guide
  • BusinessDesk
  • Newstalk ZB
  • What the Actual
  • Sunlive
  • ZM
  • The Hits
  • Coast
  • Radio Hauraki
  • The Alternative Commentary Collective
  • Gold
  • Flava
  • iHeart Radio
  • Hokonui
  • Radio Wanaka
  • iHeartCountry New Zealand
  • Restaurant Hub
  • NZME Events

SubscribeSign In
Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.
Home / Travel

Louisiana: Wild and crazy Lafayette

By Jack Barlow
NZ Herald·
19 Jan, 2015 11:00 PM5 mins to read

Subscribe to listen

Access to Herald Premium articles require a Premium subscription. Subscribe now to listen.
Already a subscriber?  Sign in here

Listening to articles is free for open-access content—explore other articles or learn more about text-to-speech.
‌
Save

    Share this article

A parade in Lafayette, Louisiana. Photo / Supplied

A parade in Lafayette, Louisiana. Photo / Supplied

Jack Barlow is riveted by the wildlife, human and animal, of Cajun Louisiana.

The four sweat-drenched musicians stood on stage in their jeans and plaid shirts, instruments slung over their shoulders, their eyes intensely focused on a short, stocky man with an accordion, perched at the front of the stage.

After a pause, legendary zydeco accordion player Wayne Toups shouted a quick 1-2-3-4 and the band launched into action. The large excitable crowd in front of the stage whirled around as teenagers looked on, kids wandered around, and some of the older bunch, far too carried away earlier, lay passed out drunk at the foot of Spanish moss-draped elm trees.

Another afternoon, another party in Lafayette. Lafayette is something of a hidden jewel. Two hours' drive from New Orleans and just over an hour from Baton Rouge, it has a personality quite different to the other big cities in southeast Louisiana. Smaller than its counterparts, its main difference lies in its Cajun heritage.

Hard partying, music loving and unfailingly colourful, Cajuns fled to Louisiana from Canada in the mid-18th century. Their culture has remained remarkably intact through the years, notably their archaic version of French. Road signs around Lafayette use the prefix rue, while it isn't uncommon to catch a bunch of men shouting to each other in a mix of heavily accented English and Cajun French.

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.
Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

However, Lafayette isn't just one big Cajun settlement. The sprawling local campus of the University of Louisiana lies near, with its sizeable population of students. This makes the town a heady mix of traditional culture and dynamic energy, surrounded by beautiful wildlife.

Most visits to Lafayette centre around the surprisingly well-developed downtown. Unlike most American cities it's clean, with early 20th century brick buildings and tree-lined avenues that veer off from Jefferson St, the city's main thoroughfare.

Small cafes are scattered around while the city's bars are crowded together at the southern end of the street. On Saturday nights police block the roads and look on while crowds of 20-somethings flock downtown. Some go to hip, blue-lighted bars, some to packed dance clubs, yet others to bars with dance floors and open mic competitions.

Cajun musician Steve Riley plays in the town. Photo / Jack Barlow

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

It's worth taking a break from the vibrant urban culture, as a ten-minute drive out of town will put you in the middle of some of the prettiest wildlife in the country. Louisiana prides itself on its critters - pelicans, alligators, a plethora of distinctive fish and birds - and there are few better places than the bayous outside Lafayette to check it all out.

Late evening over autumn or winter is best, when the sunsets are a bright, almost fluorescent mix of red, pink and orange, reflecting off the slow moving bayou waters in a Turneresque scene.

The best way to end a night in Lafayette, though, isn't standing on the banks of a picturesque bayou. Nor is it in the hubbub of downtown.

Head out of town in the direction of Breaux Bridge instead, a small town about 15 minutes northeast of Lafayette. It's an interesting drive; away from the concrete blandness of the interstate the roads are smaller, with the surrounding countryside a mix of dilapidated homes, wide fields and roadside stalls.

Discover more

Travel

Louisiana: The prison cowboys

28 Jan 08:30 PM
Travel

Louisiana: Step back to a bygone age

27 May 12:00 AM
Travel

Louisiana: Killing time in Ferriday

15 Jul 12:00 AM
Travel

Louisiana: On the Big Easy beat

26 Aug 12:00 AM

Just outside Breaux Bridge is Pont Breaux's Cajun Restaurant. Inauspicious on the outside, a walk through the door reveals a large wooden dance floor surrounded by tables sparsely furnished with red chequered tablecloths and local hot sauces. Local bands, some big names - most not, play here every night from 6pm.

It's a typical Monday night at the restaurant: a few locals wander in and out, a bored 20-something girl cups her chin in her hands at the greeting counter. On stage, a local band is pumping out top-notch Cajun dance music.

The musicians are rocking, changing effortlessly from fast dance numbers to slow waltzes, the singer crooning in French. It's old music, almost Appalachian in tone. None of the locals pay much attention, talking amongst themselves while knocking back local Abita beers and chewing through jambalaya and gumbo.

One old-timer at the bar watches a young couple attempting to square dance under the dim lights of the dance floor.

"Ah," he says with a long drawl and a slight smile.

"See, they don't know what they doin'. But that's okay. We was all young like that once too."

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

He grins as the song ends.

"Hell, people jus' come here to have a good time. That's what we do here. That's what this place is about."

As he finishes, the band counts off and rips into a quick dance number.

It's still early. It's just another night in Lafayette.

CHECKLIST

Getting there: Air New Zealand flies three times daily to Los Angeles from Auckland until March. From there, codeshare partner United Airways continues to Lafayette.

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

Further information: See lafayettetravel.com and DiscoverAmerica.com for more on visiting Lafayette.

Save

    Share this article

Latest from Travel

Travel

36 Hours in Singapore

09 May 08:21 AM
Travel

Not eggs benny: 11 interesting brunch spots in Christchurch

09 May 01:00 AM
Travel

Air NZ's premium economy v Skycouch: Which is the winner?

08 May 07:00 PM

40 truly remarkable years

sponsored
Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

Latest from Travel

36 Hours in Singapore

36 Hours in Singapore

09 May 08:21 AM

New York Times: Singapore celebrates its diamond jubilee as a thriving city-state.

Not eggs benny: 11 interesting brunch spots in Christchurch

Not eggs benny: 11 interesting brunch spots in Christchurch

09 May 01:00 AM
Air NZ's premium economy v Skycouch: Which is the winner?

Air NZ's premium economy v Skycouch: Which is the winner?

08 May 07:00 PM
Air NZ to suspend Christchurch-Gold Coast flights over summer

Air NZ to suspend Christchurch-Gold Coast flights over summer

08 May 03:47 AM
One pass, ten snowy adventures
sponsored

One pass, ten snowy adventures

NZ Herald
  • About NZ Herald
  • Meet the journalists
  • Newsletters
  • Classifieds
  • Help & support
  • Contact us
  • House rules
  • Privacy Policy
  • Terms of use
  • Competition terms & conditions
  • Our use of AI
Subscriber Services
  • NZ Herald e-editions
  • Daily puzzles & quizzes
  • Manage your digital subscription
  • Manage your print subscription
  • Subscribe to the NZ Herald newspaper
  • Subscribe to Herald Premium
  • Gift a subscription
  • Subscriber FAQs
  • Subscription terms & conditions
  • Promotions and subscriber benefits
NZME Network
  • The New Zealand Herald
  • The Northland Age
  • The Northern Advocate
  • Waikato Herald
  • Bay of Plenty Times
  • Rotorua Daily Post
  • Hawke's Bay Today
  • Whanganui Chronicle
  • Viva
  • NZ Listener
  • What the Actual
  • Newstalk ZB
  • BusinessDesk
  • OneRoof
  • Driven CarGuide
  • iHeart Radio
  • Restaurant Hub
NZME
  • About NZME
  • NZME careers
  • Advertise with NZME
  • Digital self-service advertising
  • Book your classified ad
  • Photo sales
  • NZME Events
  • © Copyright 2025 NZME Publishing Limited
TOP