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Home / Travel

Lord have Mersey - Liverpool gets cultural

Anne Gibson
By Anne Gibson
Property Editor·NZ Herald·
4 Aug, 2008 05:00 PM5 mins to read

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Nine million emigrants left from the port at Albert Dock in Liverpool, including many headed for New Zealand. Photo / Supplied

Nine million emigrants left from the port at Albert Dock in Liverpool, including many headed for New Zealand. Photo / Supplied

KEY POINTS:

What prison sentence was handed out to be sent there, one wit wanted to know. Some people raised their eyebrows, others frowned and went mute.

Despite the jokes, this year is Liverpool's time to shine.

The city has been chosen by the European Union as the paramount place
of cultural life and development in 2008.

The idea of a European cultural capital was launched in 1985 when the title went to Athens, then Florence and Amsterdam. Most recently, Genoa, Cork, Patras and Luxembourg held the titles.

But culture and Liverpool? Surely Cilla Black, soccer hooligans and grim estate housing immediately disqualify the city as being a cultural centre?

In New Zealand, Liverpool has more of a reputation as a soccer city, dominated by the worshipped Anfield, home of the Liverpool Football Club, than as a la-de-da civilising and enlightening star.

The Beatles' famous Cavern nightclub is annihilated, sadly gone to make way for the foundations of a multi-level building.

Any sign of the Thomas Steers Dock, a world-first which transformed Liverpool into one of the world's greatest cities, is also lost, part of the £1 billion ($2.7 billion) Duke of Westminster's Liverpool One urban regeneration project, although a crypt is being created as part of the project so people can see the remnants.

But Liverpool and culture have become synonymous at least in Europe and an almost overwhelming programme of music, comedy, theatre and sporting events is testimony to this.

"Throughout '08, the city will be awash with art, from public sculptures to major exhibitions," boasts the Liverpool Culture Company, established by the Liverpool City Council, to co-ordinate the year's events.

A performance by Sir Paul McCartney, the only European showing of paintings in Art in the Age of Steam, an exhibition of Gustav Klimt's Vienna works at Tait Liverpool, a steeplechase at Aintree Racecourse, drama at the Anglican Cathedral, a tall ships' race in July and a Merseybeat musical celebration are just some of the highlights offered.

Even if you don't get inside a concert hall, Liverpool offers tourists a visual feast with Britain's largest collections of historic buildings outside London.

Arrive at the Lime Street Station after a 2 1/2 hour train trip from London on Sir Richard Branson's Virgin Rail and you're confronted by the enormous St George's hall, said to be loved more than any other building by the Prince of Wales. This Grecian-style musical and court venue (1840-55) has Grade 1 listing status and was often visited by Charles Dickens. Extensive refurbishment last year revitalised this lavish structure with a Roman-style interior and statues of the city's richest men, many who made their fortunes from the slave trade.

While over by Lime Street, take in the sweep of two equally impressive neighbours: the William Brown Museum and Library (1857-60) and the Walker Art Gallery (1877). They are magnificent classical structures built when the slave trade was at its peak and the British empire was expanding.

Many New Zealanders already have a connection with Liverpool through their ancestors' voyage from Europe. A memorial in the Albert Dock area commemorates the nine million emigrants who left from that port.

The docks are an outstanding feature, a reminder of Liverpool's maritime and mercantile roots and said to be the supreme example of a commercial port at the time of Britain's greatest global influence.

The entire city centre has world heritage status from UNESCO in a nod to Liverpool's architectural and technological heritage and significance.

When it comes to their waterfront, the Liverpudlians are certainly proud.

"It should rank alongside Stonehenge, the Taj Mahal and the Pyramids of Egypt," boasts a city heritage map published for cultural capital year.

Never say those Scousers suffer from an inferiority complex.

Most impressive on the city's waterfront are The Three Graces, a collection of waterfront buildings which dominate night time postcard scenes. The Royal Liver Building with two massive liver birds on top, the Cunard Building and the former Mersey Docks and Harbour Board building stand side by side defining the skyline.

Anne Gibson visited Liverpool courtesy of Cathay Pacific and Accor Hotels.

GETTING THERE
Cathay Pacific has daily flights from Auckland to Hong Kong with four connections on to Heathrow.

WHERE TO STAY
Accor Hotels has the Ibis and Formule 1 hotels in Liverpool. See www.accorhotels.com.

FURTHER INFORMATION
For details about visiting Liverpool see www.visitliverpool.com. For details on the year of culture see www.liverpool08.com.

Festivals, cultural shows, concerts, exhibitions: Liverpool, the European capital of culture, has a big programme planned this year.

Shows by Sir Paul McCartney, celebrations of Liverpool music at football club Anfield and Viennese balls at the historic St George's Hall are just some of the highlights. A full list of events is at www.liverpool08.com.

Highlights include:

* Gustav Klimt exhibition, Tate Liverpool, until August 31.

* Twilight City, performances in September and December, an audiovisual event paying tribute to Liverpool's bricks and mortar amid the gleaming new construction, as the Duke of Westminster's Grosvenor Group rebuilds the city centre.

* Phil Collins Residency, opening September 30, an exhibition by the Turner Prize-nominated visual/photographic artist.

* Babul & The Blue Bear, drama staged during three weeks from September 29 as a theatre company explores contemporary tales and cultural identity.

* Irish festival, October 17 to November 2 with Christy Moore.

* Art in the Age of Steam exhibition at the Walker Art Gallery, until August 10.

Discover more

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Don't miss: Titanic Exhibition

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