Let the Sunshine Coast in

By DENNIS and ROZ KNILL

The Sunshine Coast, a one-hour leisurely drive north of Brisbane, is one of those places that encourages you to go back home, sell up and return to live permanently. Not surprisingly, many New Zealanders have done just that.

So what is the real Sunshine Coast anyway?

Put together breathtaking seascapes, rolling surf, endless white sandy beaches with some of the best surfing in Australia, the natural beauty of the hinterland, thousands of hectares of rainforest and national parks, five-star accommodation, wall-to-wall al fresco dining, an abundance of tourist attractions and a place where you can kick off your shoes until it is time to go home.

If that's not enough there is an average of seven hours sunshine every day, making the aptly named region, which includes the four shires of Caloundra, Moroochy, Noosa and Cooloola, one of Australia's fastest-growing holiday destinations.

Arriving at Brisbane airport at 7.30am is not an auspicious beginning - five jumbo jets ahead of us with hundreds of jaded disembarking passengers and a queue at immigration that seems infinite. Perhaps we should pretend we are Australian residents and then plead ignorance as that line has only a handful of travellers. Finally we're through, so we grab our rental vehicle and head north.

An hour away is Australia Zoo, home of Steve Irwin, Australia's famous crocodile hunter. We pay our $16.50 and check the main attraction times. With a sigh of resignation we are told that Irwin is working on a movie this week. The reality is that the $40 million redevelopment plan has to be financed by his marketing skills.

Even his staff don't know when he might breeze in - so if you do catch a glimpse of Irwin, take it as a bonus. Judging by the comments in the visitors' book, we were not the only ones to be disappointed. Regardless, it is well worth a visit and no matter what time you arrive there is always something happening.

A 20-minute drive and Suncoast Helicopters at Caloundra airport provide us with a stunning view of the Glass House mountains, ancient volcanic plains and flourishing hinterlands with inland waterways that lead to the beachside towns of Caloundra, Mooloolaba, Maroochydore, Coolum and Noosa.

Mooloolaba, our final destination for the day, looms as a bright spot for two weary travellers. It has been some time since we were last here, and we are overcome at the transition of this once sleepy fishing village to what is now a major holiday destination. Redevelopment of the Esplanade has included an explosion of lavish apartments which have expansive picture-windows and balconies with spectacular sea vistas.

Along the way an abundance of boutiques has surfaced as well as numerous cafes, bistros and restaurants, most with beachfront all-year-round al fresco dining. Although Mooloolaba is thriving, the locals need to be wary of over-commercialising their town or it could end up another Gold Coast.

For the next few days we rise at dawn and go down to the coffee shop for breakfast on the promenade and watch the Pacific Ocean pounding the shore. It is 6.30am, another perfect sunrise. It's already 19C and early morning joggers are running the boardwalk. By now there are people bobbing around blissfully in the surf. This is a town that is alive day and night, so no wonder it is popular.

Sunday brunch at The Surf Club is legendary. Throngs are drawn to the club from the time it opens its doors at 8.30am, and there is no other restaurant on the beachfront where you can sit at a table a metre from the shoreline with a view framing outrigger canoes and surfers.

Underwater World is a must-do attraction. The sharks and fish are fed every day above the 80m clear acrylic tunnel, there's a living ocean exhibition, a seal colony and interesting marine life that is both intriguing and educational. It is a Kelly Tarlton concept, but there is far more to see here than at the complex along Auckland's Tamaki Drive.

Within easy driving distance from the Sunshine Coast beaches is the Blackall Range. As the road winds through dense rainforest we glimpse vistas of the green and violet landscape falling away to the Pacific Ocean, which makes this place seem like an island apart.

In another sense this is some of the richest country in the region. Timber workers, dairy farmers and fruit growers settled here in 1887, and driving into Montville you feel that you have stumbled across a place known to few others. With picturesque cottages, shops, restaurants and the haunt of artists and artisans, this is a morning devoted to discovery.

A few minutes' drive away is Settlers Rise Winery, one of 13 in the area. Wonderful views aside, sitting on the veranda sharing a cheese platter with a glass of wine offers a welcome coolness in summer. The area is dotted with many romantic and charming B&Bs which are a base for day sorties, especially gastronomic ones.

Nearby in Maleny, lunch at The Terrace Restaurant offers splendid views all the way to the Pacific coast, and although we opted for a relatively simple menu the quality of its fish dishes was impressive and inexpensive.

After leisurely exploring Blackall Range we wind our way back to the highway and The Big Pineapple, a hit for family outings and a place where we happily buy half a kilo of macadamias and devour pineapple parfaits. Such are the temptations, but there are other attractions, such as the sugar cane train, nutmobile and boat rides. Further on we pass the outlandish Ettamogah Pub, a humorous building that was initially created in Melbourne by a well-known newspaper cartoonist.

A lazy drive up the coast brings us into Coolum and on to Noosa. It has been 20 years since our last visit to this little jewel, renowned for its casual lifestyle. Back then it was a serene self-contained resort, the curved sandy beach among its more immediately perceived attributes.

Today the locals will say it hasn't changed, it is just constantly evolving. True, there are no high-rise beachfront developments, with even the Sheraton and Sebel having to compromise their height restrictions. Many of the original houses and gardens have shrunk to accommodate more low-rise apartments designed to integrate with the natural landscape.

The National Park is another must-do on any visitor's agenda. Just a brief walk from Laguna Bay, the park offers shady bushwalks to secluded coves with glimpses of wildlife and, if you are in luck, you may spot the odd koala.

Noosa River is both heaven and haven - heaven for the rich and famous whose multimillion-dollar homes line the forefront, and haven for the restaurants and cruise operators who rely on tourists to make a living. A short ferry ride brings us down to Noosa Harbour marine village.

A stroll reveals many specialty shops and eateries. Peter, the captain of Noosa Ferry Cruises, suggests there is nothing better than sitting on the pier with fish and chips washed down with a glass of beer or wine as the sun sets. Hastings St is just as charming and relaxed, easily explored on foot and with an inviting expanse of boutiques offering everything from bright and gaudy beachwear to elegant European high fashion. Noosa's contribution to serious dining is evident everywhere, with many designed to take advantage of the sweeping ocean views.

Five minutes away along the riverside, Nooosaville competes with a cluster of 30 or so al fresco restaurants, all within walking distance, offering excellent cuisine and cheap eats.

We find ourselves at the Spirit House restaurant at Yandina. Here we step into a magical setting, dense tropical gardens encircling a shimmering pond. The gentle tinkle of bells, relaxed dining under a canopy of trees and the Thai spices will explode gently on to your palate. You'll be forgiven for thinking that you were actually in Thailand - an unforgettable experience.

Around the corner is another surprise, the Ginger Factory, with the largest selection of ginger in the world. It's free and a major tourist attraction, and even if ginger is not your passion you'll be amazed at what can be done with this humble root.

As we depart the sophistication of Noosa we stop at the Eumundi Markets, popular and enduring, where each Wednesday and Saturday visitors can notch up some real bargains of fresh produce, local arts and crafts and original clothing.

Case notes

* Getting there

Expect to pay around $730 for an economy return flight to Brisban with Air New Zealand.

* When to go

May to September (temperatures 15C to 25C)

* Where to stay

Accommodation is available for all budgets. Shop around as there are usually some great packages on offer depending on the standard required and length of stay.

We stayed at the Outrigger Mooloolaba and South Pacific Resort Noosa.

* Where to eat

Mooloolaba, Earth (international), Vibes (modern), Hot Pipis (seafood), Casablanca (international), Augello's (best pizzas in town), Bella Benzia (Italian), SomTam (Thai), Aromas (breakfast and great coffee), Surf Club (Sunday breakfast).

Noosa, Gusto (Seafood), Berados (fine dining), Sails (Australian), Ricky Ricardos (fine dining), Season (Mediterranean), Trios (seafood), Fusion (great pizzas), Terrazzo (deli style), Rosies (cosmopolitan), Pasta Pronto (pasta), Michels (French), Cafe Le Monde (family restaurant).

* Shopping

Mooloolaba, Lily Room, Lavida, Unseen, Klingers (menswear). Noosa, Blue Heaven, Discovery (arts and crafts).

* Tours

Try SunAir, Montville (full day) A$49pp, Sunshine Coast (full day) A$49pp, Eumundi Markets (half day) A$22pp. Noosa Ferry Cruise A$12.50

* Money

Current exchange rate: $1 buys 86Ac

* Dennis and Roz Knill travelled with help from Tourism Queensland, Tourism Sunshine Coast and the Sunshine Coast operators.

Queensland Holidays

Sun Lover Holidays