Lapping up the fun

By TONY ENDERBY

Waves slop against the kayak's hull as our paddles dip into the water. All around are the spectacular rock formations of the Hahei coast. In front of us a large cave opens out as we follow Nathan, our kayak guide, into the shadows. The sounds are different now as the waves reverberate off the walls, changing to a low rumble as a larger swell comes through.

I make a sound like a seagull squawking, but my kayak buddy Jenny flicks a paddle load of water at me; she doesn't appreciate my bird calls.

The lead kayak breaks back into the sunlight and more amazing rocks rise above us.

Near Mahurangi Island the sinuous brown shape of a New Zealand fur seal swirls around our kayak. A whiskered face pops up and peers at us. Twenty metres away another seal breaks the surface. We paddle closer to the boulder beach where several more seals give us the once over before settling back to dry in the sun.

"The fur seals are all young males that come here each winter," Nathan says. "Maybe their numbers will increase and breeding colonies will re-establish here."

At the seaward end of Motueka Island the stacks of volcanic rock are even more spectacular. Some sit at crazy angles and look as though they are ready to fall.

On a lull between the waves we waft ashore at Cathedral Cove - getting here was probably easier than the 45-minute walk from the carpark that a group of walkers have just completed.

They watch as everything needed for cappuccinos, lattes or just plain coffee comes out of Nathan's kayak and we make base on the shady beach.

A little gas cooker is fired up and the smell of coffee wafts around the cove. The walkers eye us enviously as Mike, our other guide, relates stories of walkers offering $20 for a coffee at Cathedral Cove's Beachfront Cafe and having to disappoint them.

Hot drinks finished, we load up and follow the towering cliffs back to Hahei's white sand.

These modern kayaks are a world away from the Te Arawa waka that arrived at Hahei more than 700 years ago. Hei, a leader on the waka, named Te Whanganui-A-Hei which means the great bay of Hei. The name changed to Mercury Bay when James Cook arrived and studied the transition of Mercury.

For the past 10 years, 9 sq km at Hahei's northern end have been protected within the Te Whanganui-A-Hei Marine Reserve.

We join Wendy and Russ from Cathedral Cove Dive to explore Kingfish Rock and see the marine reserve's underwater life. As we descend to the pinnacle top, a few metres below the surface we are surrounded by schools of fish.

A torpedo flashes past and vanishes - it has to be a torpedo - what else travels at that speed underwater? Thankfully the "torpedo" materialises into a fur seal, which makes a much slower second pass, inspects us a little more closely, and moves on.

Blue maomao, sweep and two-spot demoiselle schools tighten into a ball as the seal cruises past and down the wall of the pinnacle.

Our focus changes to the colourful wall that resembles an artist's palette. Sponges, anemones and ascidians glow in yellow, orange and red. An apricot-coloured nudibranch grazes on an orange soft coral. Among a garden of sea anemones is a yellow moray eel. It shows none of its aggressive reputation, posing mouth open as it filters oxygen from the water.

An eagle ray moves gracefully past, looking like a stealth bomber from a world far removed from the peace and tranquillity of the underwater reef. On the pinnacle top, leatherjackets feed on the encrusting life as we return to the surface.

To see more of Hahei's underwater life we take the 10-minute walk to secluded Gemstone Bay. We scramble across the colourful boulders and into the water. As we snorkel out, red moki, spotties and wrasses dart in and out of the seaweed. Tiny triplefins sit on the boulders while spiny sea urchins, crabs and sea stars hide nervously underneath.

The snorkel trail, established by the Department of Conservation, is being upgraded and, once completed, a series of underwater signs will help snorkellers identify the marine life they are swimming with.

We peer into the gaps between the rocks where several pairs of feelers protrude. Numerous crayfish hide, but are safe from takers in the marine reserve. After an hour in the water we have covered the reefs between Gemstone and neighbouring Stingray Bay. It's chilly today so the warm-up process begins as we follow the track back to the carpark.

Rather than a hot shower, we drive 5km south from Hahei to Hot Water Beach. The tide is just right for us to dig ourselves a natural spa fed by the hot water percolating up from a volcanic vent. Time is limited as the swells roll in from the Pacific Ocean and fill our spa with cold water. But there's no reason why we can't come back tomorrow.



THINGS TO DO

Te Whanganui-A-Hei (Cathedral Cove) Marine Reserve. Everything inside the reserve is protected. Check with the Department of Conservation on the boundaries, rules and regulations.

Cathedral Cove Sea Kayaking. All trips are with qualified guides. Pickups and dropoffs are available from Whitianga ferry.

Take your swimsuit, towel, sunglasses, hat and sunblock, a warm top, change of clothes and drink. Drybags are provided. Cost: $65, bookings essential, no experience needed.

Ph (07) 866 3877.

Cathedral Cove Dive. Launch off the beach in a 6m boat. All gear can be hired, and tanks can be filled. Ph (07) 866 3955.

SNORKELLING

Best places to snorkel are at Stingray and Gemstone bays. Snorkel gear can be hired from Cathedral Cove Dive.

WALKS

Cathedral Cove Walk begins at the Department of Conservation information kiosk just north of Hahei. Best at low tide. Allow 45 minutes each way. Te Pare Point Historic Reserve, at eastern end of Hahei Beach has a pa site once occupied by Ngati Hei people. Spectacular views over the sea and beach. Allow 30 minutes return.

HAHEI EXPLORER

Hahei Explorer offers scenic boat tours to Cathedral Cove and Hot Water Beach. Bookings essential. Ph (07) 866 3910. Cost: $50 a person for a one-hour (12km) trip.

* Tony and Jenny Enderby experienced the reserve with Cathedral Cove Sea Kayaking and Cathedral Cove Dive.