Lap of luxury on the lake

The converted 1930s mansion overlooks majestic Lake Rotorua. Picture / Craig Robertson

It's not common to visit Rotorua and ignore every tourist spot. The city is, after all, one of New Zealand's oldest tourist destinations. Few offer such an exhaustive range of things to do in such a small place.

It's the North Island's answer to Queenstown.

But it was the 42.2km between the start and finish line of the Rotorua Marathon that was our only focus when we visited last year. My husband was running the famous race for the first time and mud pools, hot springs and any other tourist spots were just a distraction.

Heading back to Rotorua last month, we decided to do it all - well as much as we could fit into two days - and we wanted to experience one of the city's growing tourism trends, catering for high-end travellers.

Five-star lodges are providing luxury trappings for weekend getaways or longer. There is quite a choice of them in Rotorua now, ours was Peppers on the Point.

This exclusive lodge retreat is a converted 1930s mansion overlooking majestic Lake Rotorua. With its collection of antiques, underground wine cellar, grand lounge with fireside dining, tennis courts and library, Peppers is all about elegance and charm. And the sweeping views of the lake out to Mokoia Island are unbeatable.

There are seven ultra-stylish suites in the lodge or you can book one of the two lake cottage suites - separate, self-contained units which are beautifully furnished. One of their best features is the open-air hot tub on the deck, which is the perfect place to be at night, looking out over the lake.

Don't be alarmed if, in the morning, you're greeted by some rather unusual guests: llamas, donkeys and goats. They roam the slopes of the property and come up to the fence - a couple of metres from the front door of our cottage - to be fed each morning. This is one of the treats of Peppers - although it is just 10 minutes from the city, it has the ability to make you feel a world away from anywhere.

Fine dining is a specialty here. Breakfast (full buffet) and dinner are served in the main lodge with other guests. Dinner is an elaborate affair and not to be missed. Pre-dinner drinks and canapes are served from 6.30pm fireside in the lounge. A perfect start, and it only gets better.

Guests are seated together in three dining areas. You can ask to be seated alone or to have dinner in your room but we recommend you don't - the communal dining is all part of the experience and a great way to meet some of the other guests. We are seated with another Auckland couple (who don't mind that we've brought our 9-month-old to dinner) and they prove highly enjoyable company.

There is a new menu each night with two choices for each of the four courses: our menu included tuna loin studded with black mustard seeds, pan seared pork loin, and homemade sorbet with almond biscuits. Matched with a bottle of Stoneleigh merlot from Peppers' extensive wine cellar, it was divine.

Afterwards we get to put a face to the food - chef Reg Hawthorne comes out of the kitchen and asks guests for feedback. It's a nice touch and with food this good, he's on fairly safe ground.

Food, wine and terrific views of the lake are a winning combination, but there is more to Rotorua.

It's one of those places many of us have visited with Mum and Dad on family holidays but these days tend to forget about until friends visit from overseas and make us excited about it all over again.

And just look at the things you can do there.

Checklist

ROTORUA

* Peppers on the Point
214 Kawaha Point Rd, Rotorua, ph 07 348 4868.

Five-star lodge offers gourmet food and wine, and a range of activities including in-suite massages, fly fishing from its private beach, tennis, and boating. Prices start at $1406 for one night's accommodation for two, including full breakfast, pre-dinner drinks, canapes and three-course dinner.

* What To Do

Te Puia
Hemo Rd, Rotorua, ph 0800 TE PUIA (837 842). Open 8am-5pm. $25 adult.

Paradise Valley Springs
467 Paradise Valley Rd, Rotorua, ph 07 348 0366.

Polynesian Springs
Hinemoa St, Rotorua, ph 07 348 1328. Open: 8am-11pm. $35 adult, $12.50 child

Skyline Skyrides
Fairy Springs Rd, Rotorua, ph 07 347 0027.

Open: 9am till late. Gondola - $20 adult, $9 child; Luge - from $7 adult and child.

Rainbow Springs
Fairy Springs Rd, Rotorua, ph 0800 724 626. Open: 8am-9pm. $23.50 adult, $13.50 child.

Agrodome
Western Road, Ngongotaha, Rotorua, ph 07-357 1050. Open: 8am-5pm.

* Where To Eat

Lime Cafeteria
Cnr Fenton and Whakaue Sts, Rotorua, ph 07 350 2033. Open: 8am-4.30pm. A great little find. Fantastic brunch menu, wonderful coffee and great service. A bonus: takeout coffee comes with tiny biscuits or pieces of chocolate fudge.

* Michele Crawshaw was a guest of Peppers on the Point.