Lakeside luxury in Australia

By JENNIFER GRIMWADE

Just over an hour's drive from Melbourne, Daylesford and its neighbouring twin town, Hepburn Springs, weres originally recognised by the Aborigines for their large cluster of naturally occurring medicinal mineral springs.

This Victorian spa region became a fashionable place to visit between the two world wars, when weekenders primarily wallowed in the waters and luxuriated in grand guest-houses.

After World War II, European immigrants were attracted by the familiar deciduous trees; cold, crisp winters and the small Swiss Italian community established during the gold rush. Many built holiday houses here, including Russian immigrants Anatole and Katherine Wolf, the parents of Alla Wolf-Tasker.

Twenty years ago, Alla and her artisan husband, Allan, decided to establish a rural restaurant "worthy of a journey", similar to those they had enjoyed in Europe. With fond memories of her parents' excellent cooking and vegetable garden, they chose the shores of Lake Daylesford.

Today, standing on the lawn rolling down to the lake, admiring the famous restaurant, the new wing of luxurious waterfront rooms, the convention centre, and the stately old trees, it is hard to believe they started from scratch.

But once the restaurant was up and running, it took only three months before it received a rave review and foodies started flocking to savour such rare European fare.

Over the past two decades, Alla Wolf-Tasker has become an internationally recognised chef, and the Lakehouse is now a member of the exclusive Small Luxury Hotels of the World.

Many Melbournians spend the weekend at the Lake House if they have a special occasion to celebrate. The setting is serene, the rooms are nicely appointed, it is small enough to remain intimate, hosts Alla and Allan are charming, as are their efficient, highly trained staff, and the food is always to die for.

In addition, Daylesford is a paradise for people who love to be pampered.

Besides the 300 masseurs living in the region, there is the large old Hepburn Spa Resort and numerous intimate small spas such as The Manse.

It's hard to imagine the Hepburn Spa Resort was just a two-room hut when it opened in 1896, for today it is one of the world's biggest spas.

Nestled into a creek bed lined with large old European trees, the resort has a swimming pool, a heavy mineral salt pool and sauna open to the public. It also offers a huge range of treatments. Men and women may choose classic facials and massages or opt for an exotic algae or even an aromatic moor mud wrap. They may feel like a paraffin pedicure or perhaps a jojoba body scrub.

At The Manse, the former Presbyterian minister's house in Camp St, the range of services is smaller, but the ambience far more intimate. The Manse specialises in wonderful, relaxing, Bavarian buttermilk baths, followed by even more relaxing body wraps.

Of course, the Lake House will happily arrange for you to be pampered at any spa, or send a masseur to your room.

* On this occasion, Jennifer and Peter were guests of the Lake House, but they have made previous visits to the Lake House at their own expense.



Where to find it

Lake House, King St, Daylesford, Victoria, Australia.

Ph 00 61 3 53483329, fax 61 3 53483995

* Email info@lakehouse.com.au

What it costs

Special packages start from A$280 ($314) a night (including breakfast) a couple. Weekend packages start from A$846 a night (including dinner, bed and breakfast) a couple for two nights.

Getting there

It's 60 minutes' drive from Melbourne airport. Take the Western Ring road to Ballarat and then the Western Freeway until the Daylesford turnoff. After turning, continue for about 20 minutes until you see the Lake House on the left before you reach the town centre.

Access

Wheelchair access is available. Let reservation staff know upon booking.

Smoking

All rooms are non-smoking.

What's good

The start of the day. Waking up in a huge bed and looking out across the charming little lake. Breakfasting on the lakeside terrace, alongside clusters of apples ripening on the tree, climbing up towards the Naked Lady Gumtree and listening to cockatoos screeching. Bloody Marys are on offer and the Eggs Benedict featuring local Tuki Spring Trout is not to be missed.

What could be improved

No free bottled drinking water in the room is a small oversight.

Advisory

Lake House is a perfect romantic escape. It does welcome children and offers babysitting in house. Not suitable for very young children because of its proximity to the unfenced lake.

Food

Alongside Allan's artworks, the walls of the Lake House restaurant are crowded with plates commemorating numerous awards for the outstanding food. The menu is changed twice a season and always features fresh local produce. In addition, nearly everything served is made on site. Truffles, bread, charcuterie, pastries, jams, chutneys, even the delicious and rather decadent watermelon granita with vodka.

The Lake House Cellar has won the New York Wine Spectator Best of Award of Excellence award for the past three consecutive years, in recognition of one of the finest restaurant wine lists in the world. The list has a big focus on regional and well-known international wineries