Lake resort reclaims past glory

Gazing across native bush and the calm deep of Lake Tarawera, it is hard to imagine that this tranquil spot was once the centre of tourism in the Rotorua district.

Now it's a place to get away from it all, rather than the meeting place to begin an intrepid adventure by canoe to the eighth wonder of the world.

Rotovegas is just 15 minutes up the road and, across the lake, is the brooding, barren volcano that transformed the district when, in 1886, it erupted over the Pink and White Terraces.

Lake Tarawera Lodge is up a steep shore from the Landing, where Victorian tourists embarked on their day-long journey to the terraces before retiring to their choice of hostelry: temperance or booze barn. But these days it is reclaiming the past, inviting tourists of another century to again discover the charms of nature.

The lodge site is that of once-thriving Te Mu mission, established around the corner from the then un-buried village of Te Wairoa.

Milling and cultivation were abandoned when local Maori realised there was a quicker buck to be made catering to tourists from around the globe.

When the eruption wiped out more than 150 people, the tourism business shifted to the geysers and springs round Lake Rotorua rather than dwelling under the shadow of a mountain that, in one day, unexpectedly wiped out a settlement.

Traces of the past remain. Protected walnuts and cottonwood trees, which survived their coating of ash, shade six modern timber country cottages run by Jeff and Janine Oakes.

Log burners in each roomy cottage and the simple pleasures of relaxing, eating and fishing allow modern-day visitors to ignore the incursions of 21st-century life, albeit with modcons on hand to make the rustic anything but rudimentary.

The lodge draws its clientele almost equally from overseas and New Zealand. Some come to chill out in self-contained splendour, others for pampering packages that include off-site massage and dining options. About one-third of guests want a guided wilderness fishing experience or a chance to catch trophy trout on the lake.

The Oakes pride themselves on tailoring stays for all requirements.

We arrived in the early afternoon and less than an hour later were out on the lake in Jeff's launch. The former money markets man is a registered launch master and member of the Professional Fishing Guides Association.

Part Maori and originally from Tauranga, he had hunted and fished in the area with his father and returned from overseas with his multilingual Swiss wife and young son to enjoy the lifestyle the family now love sharing with visitors.

My first fishing experience involving anything other than dangling a line over a wharf was a triumph. I can't claim much credit, though. Jeff set up the line and fly and I just stood around admiring the view and occasionally checking the tension.

Luckily I got a bite and reeled in a respectable 42cm rainbow trout, which Jeff duly dispatched and Janine later sliced into the freshest wafers of rosy pink sashimi I've enjoyed.

My friend didn't get a bite, but was soothed by a sauvignon and a secret stopover. We bypassed popular Hot Water Beach and were taken to a little creek with thermal springs, where we wallowed on warm pumice pebbles in foot-deep water like baby hippopotomi.

Out on the lake, Jeff pointed out where Maori would take 19th-century tourists by boat to Te Ariki, the narrow isthmus crossing to Lake Rotomahana and the terraces. The walk is short, but in corsets it could hardly have been comfortable. Across the other side of the lake, a water taxi now ferries trampers to the drop-off for the popular Tarawera Falls walk.

In our three hours on the lake, we saw only a handful of other boats, rather more birdlife and the odd fishy ripple off quietly steaming shores.

The heat of Lake Tarawera and its clean depths are reasons the lake is home to some of this country's best trophy trout.

While other lakes might yield more fish, this one is home to some of the biggest. After 10 years working out the lake's secrets, Jeff has a good idea of where to find the fish, although his real love is fly fishing the region's remote rivers.

Expats and foreigners are willing to fork out for the privilege of being taken off-road by four-wheel-drive or helicopter for some back-country casting. Back at the cottages they can soak away the day's exertions in the spa while their fish is steamed or barbecued and their gear put in a drying room.

We chilled out in our two-bedroom cottage and woke to breakfast from a hamper of New Zealand treats (bacon, eggs, Vogels, Marmite and raspberry jam) in the fridge.

Unlike some lodges this one, with its self-contained cottages, offers the choice of privacy or the attentions of personable hosts. It's a winning formula.

We liked that the two-bedroom cottages could sleep two couples or friends and family and reckon pooling resources for a lake fishing experience (and au naturel hot spa) is worth considering to make the trip memorable.

After a morning wander up the hill to a glade overlooking the lake, we headed to the cafe at the Landing for a leisurely coffee, before stopping at the Buried Village to brush up on our history. Then past the blue and green lakes back to tourist town and the busy, high road home.

* Case notes

Prices

Lake view two-bedroom cottages: $245 share two. Bush view: $215 share two, $30 each extra adult, $20 each extra child.

Food

$15 a person for breakfast (or self-cater). Dinner hampers (venison, lamb, salmon) available also.

Totally Tarawera package: Two nights, including meals, lake cruise on MV Reremoana and Buried Village visit, $425 a person.

Loyalty programme discounts for repeat stays. Longer stay deals available. Conferences can cater for up to 20 people and function facilities for 100 people.

Fishing

Half-day guided fishing on the lake for up to four people, $475. Full-day version of this is $950.

River fishing (limit two) $950. Refreshments, gear and licences included.

Details

Tarawera Lodge is open until mid-July, then closes until mid-September.

Phone: (07) 362 8754

Things to do

Lake Tarawera: Water taxi for hire, charter boats available or MV Reremoana twice-daily launch cruises ($28 an adult). Cafe at the Landing.

Buried Village: $20 entry an adult (includes guided commentary). Cafe.

Rotorua's many attractions are a short drive away.